2007~2015 Changing CX-9 transfer case gear oil (photos)

I picked up a quart of the Motorcraft 75/140 synthetic after doing some reading on the Ford forums (who seem to have been onto this quite a bit before we were).

I'm concerned with a lot of the fluids you guys in this thread are using because the OEM spec Motorcraft does NOT contain a friction modifier. I asked the parts guy and he was very clear there was no friction modifier and offered a bottle of it to be added if the installation required it (a limited slip diff for example). Every other fluid I've seen mentioned in this thread does contain friction modifier (Mobile 1, Amsoil, Royal Purple etc). I don't know what negative effects the friction modifier might have on a basic geared PTO like our transfer case is (the clutch that engages/disengages is in the rear diff) but I'll stick with a non-friction modified fluid.
 
eskimo0101 said:
I picked up a quart of the Motorcraft 75/140 synthetic after doing some reading on the Ford forums (who seem to have been onto this quite a bit before we were).

I'm concerned with a lot of the fluids you guys in this thread are using because the OEM spec Motorcraft does NOT contain a friction modifier. I asked the parts guy and he was very clear there was no friction modifier and offered a bottle of it to be added if the installation required it (a limited slip diff for example). Every other fluid I've seen mentioned in this thread does contain friction modifier (Mobile 1, Amsoil, Royal Purple etc). I don't know what negative effects the friction modifier might have on a basic geared PTO like our transfer case is (the clutch that engages/disengages is in the rear diff) but I'll stick with a non-friction modified fluid.
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Based on the customer reviews about the absolutely disgusting smell of Ford friction modifier on Amazon (check link below and read customer reviews), I am almost certain it was also added into the CX-9 transfer case, this is confirmed by many forum member who already changed the transfer case oil and described the unforgiving pungent smell we encountered, just out of curiousity, does the new bottle of Motorcraft oil by itself have any pungent smell to it? https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)

Also, check the posts in the link below by "the natrix" he has by far the MOST EXPERTISE with regards to the transfer case I have read so far; this guy knows what he's talking about, he doesn't recommend the OEM oil and mentions an additive was added from the factory in his tear down: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/10914-ptu-leak-failures/

I can only comment based on my own experience with using Royal Purple that I have no issues. I have driven close to 10,000 total miles now with Royal Purple and everything is still smooth as butter. I'm not a reseller of Royal Purple nor do I recommend or not recommend it. In the end, everyone has to make their own decision based on the facts that are available. IMHO, just because it is OEM doesn't make it the best. If it was, none of us would need to change oil right? It is lifetime oil per Mazda/Ford, yeah right.

I was a little wary to use the same OEM Motorcraft oil since it's been well documented that it breaks down too easily. The OEM Motorcraft new oil is suppose to be yellow/amber color but it turns to black color and eventually to sludge with the consistency of Elmer's glue.

One member even reported replacing three (yes 3!) transfer cases and one even failed only after 12,000 miles.

Motorcraft is basically owned by Ford, so no big surprise they would use their own oil
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motorcraft

the same exact transfer case is used in the CX-9, Ford Edge, Ford Flex, Lincoln MKX,
just google "Ford Edge transfer case problem", "Lincoln MKX transfer case problem"
and you will see the same problems.
http://jonathanlackman.com/blog/ford-edge-pdu-pto-transfer-case-issues-flex-500-mkx/
http://s159.photobucket.com/user/the_natrix/library/Ford%20Edge%20PTU?sort=3&page=1


off topic : found out that Middle East PTU's have a drain plug ? a drain plug will make all our lives so much easier
http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/13533-13m01-middle-east-ptu-extended-warranty/
 
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For those close to Danbury CT, colonial mazda offers a transfer case fluid change. Just had my transfer case replaced under warranty at 95k there. Colonial Mazda service dept actually recommends the transfer case fluid change as part of maintenance.
 
The specification for both PTU and rear diff gear oils is GL-5, with their respective weights (75W-140 PTU and 80W-90 rear diff). The spec doesn't call for LS (Limited Slip) compatibility or Frictions Modifiers (for limited slip clutch type diffs). The friction modified gear oil you can get is for LSD's (Limited Slip Diffs) and the oil additive package makes the oil less slippery to accommodate the clutches. The CX9 doesn't have limited slip diffs in PTU or rear diff, so although you can use friction modified GL-5 gear oil, you'll provide better, more slippery lubrication to the hypoid gears if you use the non-LS, non-friction modified GL-5 gear oils.

Watching the various PTU dirty oil videos on this forum (thanks guys for taking these!), the old black gear oil looked to have the tell tale sign of the metallic grey molybdenum disulphide additive. That would make sense to me as if you were ever REALLY going to achieve a lifetime gear oil it would have to have moly in it. (Moly was apparently originally developed to allow aircraft engines to run with a loss of oil pressure, long enough for them to get to ground safely). Then, reading the PTU dissection thread by 'the-natrix' at http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/10914-ptu-leak-failures/, he confirmed the PTU does in fact have moly added with the factory fill. DO look into adding moly to your PTU and rear diff guys. In my experience, it genuinely is the best additive for lubricity and actually does what all the snake oils can only claim to do.

I've been using the Liqui-Moly MoS2 moly additive for 110,000km now in my CX-9's engine and it's as good and strong as the day I started using it. I was starting to get some oil consumption on long haul towing holiday trips at only 40,000km (using Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40 synthetic oil). It all stopped when the moly was added and with the added benefit that the engine became smoother, more quiet and more freely revving. The familiar CX9 cold start noisy tappets also quietened down. The Liqui-Moly stuff is TUV certified (German testing agency) so it's no joke. My tip for using the MoS2 stuff though is to use the full recommended dose the first time, then only half recommended dose on subsequent oil changes. It minimizes the effect on the oil viscosity but still does it's thing.

I'll be adding the Liqui-Moly gear oil additive (different to the MoS2 above) with Amsoil GL-5 gear oils to the CX9 when I change out the running gear fluids in a couple weeks.

Disclaimer: Nope. I don't work for Liqui-Moly. It's just the only aftermarket additive manufacturer whose products I've found do what they actually claim to do.
 
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Thinking about getting a low mileage 2012 CX-9 but the transfer case issues have me severely reconsidering. Has anyone somewhat proven that oil changes will prevent the failures? Also has anyone tried an additive like Lucas?
 
Fluid changes on the PTO will extend the life of it. A 30k miles interval seems to be a good number for the PTO and 60 for the diff.

Sent from my LGLS990 using Tapatalk
 
I am wondering, if you needed a new fill plug is there a part number for it. I tried to google it and nothing comes up. If anyone here knows the part number to the transfer case plug can you please provide it. I am hoping to do this on the weekend and would like to be prepared for the unexpected. Thanks again.
 
kornholio said:
I am wondering, if you needed a new fill plug is there a part number for it. I tried to google it and nothing comes up. If anyone here knows the part number to the transfer case plug can you please provide it. I am hoping to do this on the weekend and would like to be prepared for the unexpected. Thanks again.
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That's not the kind of fill plug that needs replacement. It's just a plain old fill plug. On the second or third change you may want to put a little new sealant on the plug but other than that no need for a new one. Already had mine out once and back in with no issues.
 
rowlands57 said:
That's not the kind of fill plug that needs replacement. It's just a plain old fill plug. On the second or third change you may want to put a little new sealant on the plug but other than that no need for a new one. Already had mine out once and back in with no issues.
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I think he was thinking along the lines of something unexpected happening,

like stripping the plug or losing the plug (which actual happened to me, dropped it by accident and for the life of me couldn't find it, eventually found it under an old rag)

Anyway, it's a standard pipe thread 1/2"-14 NPT filler plug with a 3/8" recessed square socket

similar to this one with the magnet at the tip to attract metal particles

http://www.vanhorntruckparts.com/product/1566/Spicer-Magnetic-Drain-Plug-12-NPT/



kornholio is also right, I couldn't find the actual Mazda or Ford part number anywhere online, probably because that plug comes with the whole sealed transfer case and not sold separately but it's just a standard 1/2" NPT plug that you can get anywhere, just make sure it has the magnet.
 
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Thank you, you read my mind. The reason i ask is because when the indy took out the plug to try to do this he cleaned the plug entirely and i believe that he may have cleaned off the orange sealer. So my fear is maybe it would come out because i really don't know if he re tightened it enough. What website did you find that at. Thanks again for the help.
 
kornholio said:
Thank you, you read my mind. The reason i ask is because when the indy took out the plug to try to do this he cleaned the plug entirely and i believe that he may have cleaned off the orange sealer. So my fear is maybe it would come out because i really don't know if he re tightened it enough. What website did you find that at. Thanks again for the help.
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here you go, link for fill plug : http://www.vanhorntruckparts.com/product/1566/Spicer-Magnetic-Drain-Plug-12-NPT/

BUT IMHO, it's safer to just re-apply the sealant VC3, available on Amazon : https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)

At least you know the threading will be a perfect match since that's the original plug that came with the transfer case, thus less chance of
cross threading and stripping.

LAST THING you want is to strip the threading on the transfer case , that will be a disaster.
Trust me, just stay with your original plug and add the VC3 and you're good to go.

Once that transfer case thread is stripped there's no way to seal it unless you re-tap with a larger plug size or replace the whole unit, neither is a good option.
 
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You are right about that, hopefully i am just worrying to much about that. Once again thank you. I will let you know how this turns out.
 
kornholio said:
You are right about that, hopefully i am just worrying to much about that. Once again thank you. I will let you know how this turns out.
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No problem, it's really easy, I foresee no problems.

I think the hardest part was getting the plug loose for the first time, the space is really, really tight and you need to reach it from the back around a cross beam with a short stubby 3/8" square drive ratchet, you'll understand when you see it for yourself.

(note: counter-clockwise to loosen, and also very important when sealing plug: hand thread clockwise the first 2-3 threads after you are done filling with new oil just to make sure your are not cross-threaded before using the ratchet to really tighten the plug) ,

I had an "a-ha moment" after I did the oil change last week, so I will try this next time: I actually think a 3/8" extension will work but I've never tried it, maybe another member who has done the procedure can chime in and confirm it. Instead of reaching around, is it possible to get to the plug with a short 3/8" extension from the transfer case side facing the passenger seat perpendicular to the plug ? need to offset with the extension bar because the U-pipe is right underneath and gets in the way of the ratchet handle.



this will make it really easy to loosen and tighten the plug, no more reaching around with the stubby ratchet
(it's really difficult to have your whole arm reach around and stretched and get enough torque to loosen and also tighten)
 
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Well I hope that everything works out for me. I got under there and removed the plug. I tried to use the suction machine and I only got about 2 inches of sludge in the tube. After that I pumped in the royal purple. I was wondering why nothing was coming out the hole. Only when I removed the tube was when it started to dribble out very slowly. I pumped in about 2/3 of the bottle of that stuff. So I let it dribble for a while and then came back to wipe everything dry and reinstall the plug. Hopefully this will help with loosening the sludge. On another note I thought that the woo woo sound I heard was maybe from the transfer case lacking oil, now I am wondering if that is a wheel bearing. I still hear it on the highway. Any input with that would be appreciated as well. One other thing I was able to drive onto the concrete blocks without the helper brick, you just have to go very slow. Also it is very cramped down there with only 4 inches to work with.
 
Excellent, sounds like it went well with no hiccups. Pretty simple right? Might be a good idea to redo the procedure after about 500 miles to get rid of all the residual old oil that the new oil has diluted.

Sorry I can't offer any advice on that woo woo sound you mentioned since I haven't encountered that sound but I don't think that would be from the transfer case.

Reason being is that the first symptom would be burning oil smell coming from the transfer case after a long drive. That's the very first indication the transfer case is in trouble and lacking sufficient lubrication. You would most definitely have smelled burning oil first before hearing any sounds.

Just a thought, might not have anything to do with woo woo sound, but have you checked your engine air filter to make sure it's not clogged?

I have a K&N reusable air filter that I clean regularly just to make sure my engine gets good unrestricted clean air.
 
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Thanks Avidien, I change the air filter and the cabin air filter every year. The air filter was still clean the cabin air not so much. I also use the shop vac when i remove the filter to suck out any leaves or debris that might still be in there. How long do you think that i can go with the new oil. I had to use my friends garage space to do it this time. I was thinking about doing it again in may. I don't want to get him in trouble with the homeowners association where he lives at. If i need to do it sooner than lets say 5 or 6k miles please let me know. Thanks again, you have been a very big help.
 
kornholio said:
Thanks Avidien, I change the air filter and the cabin air filter every year. The air filter was still clean the cabin air not so much. I also use the shop vac when i remove the filter to suck out any leaves or debris that might still be in there. How long do you think that i can go with the new oil. I had to use my friends garage space to do it this time. I was thinking about doing it again in may. I don't want to get him in trouble with the homeowners association where he lives at. If i need to do it sooner than lets say 5 or 6k miles please let me know. Thanks again, you have been a very big help.
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Hi kornholio, you're very welcome, I think you'll be ok to change again in May. I went 20,000 miles last time with Royal Purple and oil still looked darn good.

Although moving forward, I personally will be changing every 6000 miles at the same time when I change my engine oil as my regular maintenance schedule just to be on the safe side, because Mazda/Ford 0.5 liter transfer case oil capacity is a joke for a beast like the CX-9.
 
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Thanks OP, excellent guide.

Any chance for tutorial for rear diff much appreciated.
 
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Bargain said:
Thanks OP, excellent guide.

Any chance for tutorial for rear diff much appreciated.
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here you go, *** View attachment CX-9 REAR DIFFERENTIAL OIL REPLACEMENT.pdf ***

looks pretty straight forward since there's a drain plug for the rear differential

procedure is similar to the front transfer case procedure, except no need for the electric pump to suck out the old oil since there is a drain plug and the oil capacity in the rear is double using 1 liter of SAE 80W-90 oil.

VERY VERY VERY IMPORTANT FOR REAR DIFFERENTIAL:

make sure you unscrew fill plug first before unscrewing drain plug !!!

if not, and the fill plug seizes, there will be no way to re-fill with new oil



The instructions says 2014 model but it's all the same for 2007 thru 2015 models,

I usually just pay the dealer for this service since the cost is reasonable, I think last time I paid $49.99 USD.

Also, the rear differential service is offered by ALL dealerships unlike the front transfer case where some dealers say the transfer case is sealed and can't be done, blah, blah, blah, yeah right, if it's so sealed why do some members see leaking oil from vent valves.

So according to dealers: it's good to change the rear differential but forget the front transfer case? That makes absolutely no sense at all.
 
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