Rear Passenger Window Not Working

Hank3

Hank3

Asian Persuasion <><
Contributor
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2010 Mazda5 GT
What do I need to troubleshoot in order find out what's causing the window to not operate? Both the driver's door and passenger rear sliding door switch do not lower the window.

Window lock switch on driver's door is not on. Is there a reset switch? Or is a the motor shot?
 
Could be a fuse. Could be a malfunctioning sensor that thinks something is in the way of the window. It's not frozen is it?
 
With the onslaught of freakishly cold weather in Florida I would suspect a frozen window more than anything else. Condensation in the window track freezes the felt to the surface of the window, you can probably clear it by having a helper gently "push" the window down as you hit the switch. You can also carefully run a razor blade inside the window track with the window still up to break any contact, just be careful not to butcher your window rubber/felts.
 
Will check those items soon and report back. Thanks!
 
IF it doesn't operate from either the master switch or from the affected door it's most likely the window motor...

Take the door panel off and using a dmm check for voltage at the connector by the motor... if you get 12v there.... motor is shot
 
I would still not eliminate the switches. In our car, that window has been problematic for a long time. I bought a brand new drivers door switch and it is still intermittent, albeit much better. The switch on that door also sometimes still causes problems, although rarely. Perhaps there is condensation IN the switches?
 
I don't know, but the odds of both switches being the problem is pretty small. If something's not frozen and you've checked fuses inside and in the engine compartment, I'm assuming it's the motor. Make sure and try to turn it manually, then apply power, before you replace it.
 
Tried troubleshooting some today and was unsuccessful. The fuse that powers the window is to the right of the glovebox. There's a 30 amp fuse that powers all the windows per the owners manual and it was good. I tried helping the window down while depressing the window switch but a no-go there as well.

Will call dealership tomorrow morning and see if this can be fixed under the CPO as we have until September before the one year/12k mile limited warranty is up.
 
Well it was worth a shot. Dealer said it's not covered under the 12-month/12K mile CPO Limited Warranty (which is good until 9/24/15 for our MZ5).

So now onto troubleshooting it further. As I mentioned in my previous post, according to the OM, the fuse that powers the windows is to the right of the glovebox. If the fuse were shot, wouldn't the other windows not work as well? I didn't see anything related to the windows int eh engine compartment fuse box. I priced a used OEM motor on https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned) and it's $60, but I'll use a DMM first to see if it's the motor. Any way it can be the regulator?

And is pulling the interior panel off the the sliding rear door pretty simple and straightforward? Any tips that I should know about?
 
Update: Went to troubleshoot again tonight after reading that some Mazda3 owners experienced the same. A member who worked at a dealership mentioned that it happens often to vehicles on their lot and to shut the door while having the switch depressed...that usually gets the window moving down. Before I got to do that, I thought I would press the switch one last time . Eureka! It went down and up on its own!

Weird. We'll see how long this lasts.Wouldn't be surprised if the problem came back though.
 
Last edited:
Another Update: Same window stopped working again today. Clearly something is wonky and not right.
 
I haven't been able to row down this window since that one day it worked randomly. Have been too busy with our new baby to spend the needed amount of time to troubleshoot this.
 
Ongoing saga...started working again a couple days ago after I slapped the interior door panel with my hand a few times. Something's loose I'm assuming.
 
Hank3 said:
Ongoing saga...started working again a couple days ago after I slapped the interior door panel with my hand a few times. Something's loose I'm assuming.
Click to expand...
Sounds like a loose connection - open the door up and check the wiring - make sure to buy some panel pins before hand to replace the ones you will break :-(
 
If I remember right there are two types in the door panel. AutoZone and any other auto parts store sell a ton of them too- just buy them locally after you figure out which ones you need.
 
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