Clutch

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Mazdapro5z

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Protege5
Hey guys, so was wondering what everyones opinion was/is on a good clutch kit for the MSP? I've looked at quiet a few just not sure which one to go with. Just want to see what you all think and see what you all might be running in your trans. Thanks.
 
I have used the stock exedy MSP replacement and just purchased a spec stage 1 for the new msp. A clutch is a clutch just make sure to get one with a torque rating ~230ft/lbs or better
 
After having two Spec's fail, and even send back to Spec for them to verify it was a failure on there part. I wont ever buy another from them. I ended up going with a Southbend Clutch out of pocket after Spec wouldnt refund, only replace the s*** clutches. And after 2 in a row, i wasnt willing to even give them a chance with a 3rd.
 
Had a Spec Stage 2 in my 90 Probe GT. Great clutch with no problems. I abused it every day too. Put over 73,000 miles on it before I sold the car.

You can't go wrong with Exedy either stock replacement or Stage 1.
 
Preferio said:
Is the OE Exedy not a stage 1?
Click to expand...

I don't think so but I cannot say with certainty. I would expect the Stage 1,2,3 etc to have more beef than an OE replacement. Something has to justify the price difference besides the packaging. I think I recall an old post by JDMSam about the torque differences. But I'm older now so I could be wrong!

Yep there is a difference in clamp load, 1350 v 1545 (OEM Mazda v Exedy 1/2)
 
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Just to clarify for OP, the stock replacement is made by Exedy for the MSP. Don't go with the OE replacement for non-turbo Protege. You will have to get the OE replacement from a Mazda dealer. So its either that or an upgraded racing clutch Stage 1 or whatever suits your power needs. Check the pricing on onlinemazdaparts dot com and compare that to the prices for racing clutches.
 
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The stock MSP clutch is an Exedy stage 0 technically. It's not quite as stout as the stage 1 but higher torque rating and clamping force than the stock protege clutch. It gets confusing because most companies list stock replacement as for a regular pro not the MSP so most people go with a stage 1 for peace of mind. Just pick one that has a reasonable torque rating for your car, makes no sense when people put a stage 5+ clutch in their car just to say it.

BTW I got the spec for stupid cheap from crossover auto, highly recommended. Probably have the largest selection of MSP-specific parts of any site on the web these days.
 
I priced the OEM parts @ $240.77. An Exedy Stage 1 can be had for $303 on amazon. A Spec SZ331 is $377.10 on the spec clutch super store dot com website.

The SZ941 is $251.10 but rated for less torque.
 
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It's funny because I'm actually in the market for a clutch and can't really decide on one.

- I need something to handle the extra torque.

- What is sufficient?

- I drive the car 5,000 miles a year and normally in the mountains.

- I have no desire to spend $500 on a clutch set.

- What are my suggestions?
 
Here's a few:

1) Quit driving it like an absolute **** nut! I don't know you and mean no offense but unless you are the Federal Reserve and can print money out of thin air then what is the point of driving in such away that you continually break things. It's hard but after you've figured out what you've spent over the years it becomes easier to change your habits.

2) Either an Exedy Stage 1 or 2 as they cost less than equivalent clamp/torque rated other racing clutches.
 
BOOSTR said:
Here's a few:

1) Quit driving it like an absolute **** nut! I don't know you and mean no offense but unless you are the Federal Reserve and can print money out of thin air then what is the point of driving in such away that you continually break things. It's hard but after you've figured out what you've spent over the years it becomes easier to change your habits.

2) Either an Exedy Stage 1 or 2 as they cost less than equivalent clamp/torque rated other racing clutches.
Click to expand...

It's an extra car, a toy, a hobby, and rarely are hobbies free or cheap, especially motorsports. I buy engines for $150 a pop, transmissions for $50-75. I run a shop and, until recently, have always been able to use the shop at my own disposal. I still use it, but not as often or doing large jobs. The BJ is an easy platform to work on and having removed every component from them over the past 8 years multiple times, I can do it with my eyes closed. Money isn't that big of a deal because main components are fairly cheap. Aftermarket parts, however, are not. If I wanted something cheap to modify, I'd go buy another bike or two. Or a Honda. Not an MSP. You'll never hear me b**** about putting money into the car, but I don't want to spend $500 on a clutch. That's for sure. I'll probably get a Spec. The stage 1 I've been running would slip some, though it had 90k on it, with my GT25 on 16+psi. With the GT28, I doubt it will hold. Though, I could be wrong. And that's why I'm asking for opinions and suggestions.
 
My spec stage 1 was about 250 shipped, 260lb torque rating. You may need a little more than that just in case.
 
Preferio please find me a transmission for $50 and sell it to me for $75 shipped. Thanks ��
 
Gabi said:
Preferio please find me a transmission for $50 and sell it to me for $75 shipped. Thanks ��
Click to expand...

Get a used transmission from a Probe! That's what I'm running. My last cost $50 and the previous one was $75.
 
Just to add in my experience here:

I replaced my clutch 50k miles ago (almost 4 years) with an Exedy "stage 0" OEM replacement kit, like some people mentioned here. It says it is not compatible with the MSP because it "can't handle the power", according to the customer support rep I talked to. However, I dug further and found out it should be fine, and since I was poor and in college I spent $85 on the kit from Amazon:

The cheap kit, Exedy KMZ08
https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)

The "recommended" OEM is the Exedy 10807 kit, which is triple the cost:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)

I have driven on my "cheap" clutch kit for long enough to confidently say that it works. My car is stock though, so I don't know how much power it can take, but it has never once slipped or given me any trouble whatsoever. It feels great and has held up well. When this one dies, I will buy another KMZ08, but that should be a long ways off.
 
Its not that its a cheap clutch(KMZ08) its just not for FSDE-T but it will work and hold up under sedate conditions as you've seen. The 10807 is a stage 1 upgrade over OEM from Mazda.

My original clutch is holding up well @ 116,000 miles having seen various amounts of boost pressure throughout its life. I would seriously consider putting in another one at this point but feel that I have a ways to go before I'll need to. I got 141,000 miles on my other boosted Mazda OEM clutch before upgrading to the Spec Stage 2.
 
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