Input on replacement struts needed

T

twintrbo

Member
I'm going to try disconnecting the RSB to try to narrow down my knocking suspension problem. It seems fairly likely that the shocks could be totally shot as well as the rubber spring perch so I'm entertaining replacement options. Has anyone used or heard anything about the following options:

1. KYB GR-2
2. KYB gas a just
3. Sachs Super Touring

Thanks in advance, I'm leaning towards the Sachs because I had read that the KYB dont have the smoothest ride although they perform well overall.
 
I'll suggest that you look into the fully assembled KYB strut/sprint/tophat set for about $110 each corner on Amazon. The SR4083 and SR4084 sets are for the fronts. The struts are the Excel-G version and are the latest generation struts to the GR-2. I get clunking over bumps too but it's from my passenger front corner. And like yourself, I hope the clunking goes away after the replacement.
 
KYB gas a just are the most recent iteration of the rear shocks for the Mz5 and are a small upgrade over OEM or the GR2. I put them on the rear of our 2008 and the ride is great. KYB only has GR2 front struts so these are a good option for OEM replacement too. I have the GR2 struts as well. No complaints.
 
Koni also makes struts/shocks for our Mazda 5s - FSD and yellows I believe - several posts on here about them. A bit expensive for my cheap tastes - KYB for me. I assume you have already changed your sway bar bushings to fix the knocking issue?
 
I'm still going to bank this info but disconnecting the sway bar made all the noise stop. I need to figure out if it's the links or the bushings, both are less than 6 months old but the bushings are poly.
 
twintrbo said:
I'm still going to bank this info but disconnecting the sway bar made all the noise stop. I need to figure out if it's the links or the bushings, both are less than 6 months old but the bushings are poly.
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My understanding is that poly bushings require maintenance (regreasing). You may just need to re-grease them to get rid of the knocking. I used oem rubber, which I hope is lower maintenance.
 
In my experience poly bushings do need maintenance at least they do if you want them to be quiet. lol I installed some poly rear subframe bushings on my BMW. They squeak like no other. lol I used the cheap copper grease they provided. They make a squeaky kind of sound, its louder when its cold out. lol I was recommended to use a high temp synthetic grease. You can't use petroleum based grease. It breaks down some of the compounds in the polyurethane. I heard lithium grease works good but doesn't last as long as the high temp synthetic grease. That's what I've read and heard anyways. I still have yet to drop the rear subframe to try out the fancy grease i bought.
 
I have GR-2s all around, but have Gas-a-Justs on the rear of the V70 (Koni Yellows up front) and would definitely like to have Gas-a-Justs on the rear of the Mazda
 
thaxman said:
I have GR-2s all around, but have Gas-a-Justs on the rear of the V70 (Koni Yellows up front) and would definitely like to have Gas-a-Justs on the rear of the Mazda
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How do the GR-2's feel on the road? Is the ride harsher than stock? I'm looking for a smooth ride but good quality. I made the mistake of buying cheap SenSen struts from ebay. 2+ years and 10k miles later the fronts act like they are failing.
 
I have FSDs and the two rears have both failed and I'm concerned that I'm hearing a dry front strut now, although I don't see any leaking oil.

I cannot recommend the Koni FSD for this car.
 
Robotaz said:
I have FSDs and the two rears have both failed and I'm concerned that I'm hearing a dry front strut now, although I don't see any leaking oil.

I cannot recommend the Koni FSD for this car.
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Don't they have lifetime warranty? Have you tried using it?
 
kw_da said:
Don't they have lifetime warranty? Have you tried using it?
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Of course. I've used it twice.

And I've paid $150 in labor twice. I've also lost considerable wages screwing around with mechanics.

So I've got over half the original cost of the shocks and struts burned on labor to replace junk shocks and expect to burn considerably more before I figure out what to do to address it finally.

That's why I would never recommend people get themselves into the mess I'm in. For whatever reason, Koni FSDs can't handle the job.
 
Robotaz said:
Of course. I've used it twice.

And I've paid $150 in labor twice. I've also lost considerable wages screwing around with mechanics.

So I've got over half the original cost of the shocks and struts burned on labor to replace junk shocks and expect to burn considerably more before I figure out what to do to address it finally.

That's why I would never recommend people get themselves into the mess I'm in. For whatever reason, Koni FSDs can't handle the job.
Click to expand...

It's nice to know people's experience, since the FSD are quite pricy compared to GR2s. Does the warranty require a mechanic to do the work? - otherwise the rear shocks are quite easy to replace.
 
kw_da said:
It's nice to know people's experience, since the FSD are quite pricy compared to GR2s. Does the warranty require a mechanic to do the work? - otherwise the rear shocks are quite easy to replace.
Click to expand...

No, it doesn't require a mechanic. I, however, do as I work 60-70 hours a week and don't have time to screw around with somebody's garbage parts in my driveway.

If you have all the time in the world to be switching out broken junk under warranty, then the Koni FSD would be something that maybe I would be OK with. If you work, have a life, and have a high value to your time away from work, then I would look elsewhere.

I'm not trying to be rude. I'm just being realistic. The vast majority of people don't have time to be breaking down a car in the driveway and constantly shipping broken parts around the country while bankrolling Koni's labor.
 
^^That sucks. If I had ponied up the extra coin for the Konis in the back I would be a little pissed too. I wonder if you aren't having other problems with your rear suspension, like bad bushings or lateral links as you seem to be having an unusual amount of trouble with shocks.
 
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