Transmission drain/fill plus external filter install with pics

foradrive

Member
:
2012 Mazda CX-9 Touring
Hi all. I'm new to this forum as far as posting, but have been a reader since purchasing my CX-9 new in 2012.

I do all the maintenance/service within my capabilities to all my vehicles, and have always been a stickler for keeping clean fluid in their transmissions. That diligence has served me well with three Hondas reaching over 200K with no tranny issues, and two Dodges, one with 230K and one with over 150K still shifting like new. (Too many vehicles, I know.) I like the Magnefine filters. I put them on my Hondas and have NO regrets.

So with this CX-9 I was concerned with having no dipstick to check the level and condition of the transmission fluid. But having read an excellent post by cpb406 on this forum on a "how to" for a drain and fill on a CX-9, I performed the task quite easily. I just want to add to his details, include more pictures, and also show how I added a Magnefine external transmission filter.

My CX-9 reached the 30K mile mark, so I knew the tranny fluid was due for some attention. Having first warmed up the engine and transmission, driving it onto ramps, and letting it cool somewhat, I removed the transmission drain plug in two steps. First using a T40 Torx bit, remove the inner plug.

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I probably got about a quart of fluid with this first plug removed. Then using a #17 hex bit, remove the larger/outer part of the plug. That's where you'll get the remainder of the fluid. In all, I got about 3.5 quarts out of mine letting it drain for a good 30 minutes. I was a bit surprised at how brown the fluid had gotten in just 30 thousand miles. Mazda's "good for the life of the vehicle" statement doesn't mean a thing to me.


With it drained, I then installed a Magnefine in-line filter on the return line rubber hose from the radiator internal cooler to the transmission. I had to loosen and peel back part of the protective plastic webbing on this hose, and cut out 2.75 inches of the hose. A Magnefine filter with 3/8" inlet/outlet was simple to then install with hose clamps. Pay attention to the direction of flow arrow on the filter. You want it aiming toward the trannny.

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I then reinstalled the two drain plugs, and proceeded to refill the transmission. As noted by cpb406, the fill plug is on top of the transmission below the air filter box. It would be easiest to get to if you do as he states and remove the air box, but I did not. I used a series of 3/8" wobble extensions to reach the plug successfully. You'll need a T55 Torx bit to remove it. Sorry the pic is sideways.

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Once I had the plug out, I used a funnel with a long hose to reach the fill hole, and added fresh Mobil ATF 3309. I simply added back the exact amount that drained out - 3.5 quarts.

A simple procedure that I plan to repeat every 20K miles from here on. By the way, I bought a case of Mobil 3309 from Amazon for under $70. I also got the Magnefine filter from Amazon for about $15.
 
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Thank you for posting this. We will reach 30k in about 5 months.
 
Some more pics for clarity

Here's a pic of the return line before I cut it and added the Magnefine filter.

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And the 2.75 inch section I removed to add the filter.

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These are the bits I used to remove the various plugs.

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And here's the fluid I drained out.

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The tubing I snaked down past the air box to refill with new fluid.

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This is just the way I did this job, not the only way. Its very similar to doing a Honda, with the exception of the double plug for the drain plug. And no, I'm not worried about voiding any warranty on my transmission by adding the Magnefine. I figure this sort of preventative maintenance will make it last well beyond the warranty period, instead of failure shortly after the warranty expires.
 
Why do this when Mazda does not recommend transmission fluid change (and certainly not at 30,000miles). Aren't you falling prey to the Jiffy Lube propaganda about need to change fluids constantly? If Mazda or Ansin engineers thought it was necessary wouldn't it be part of the scheduled maintenance? There have been very few reports of transmission failure here except as related to the transfer case (a different issue altogether). Why not leave well enough alone?
 
Thanks for the great explanation. I believe the Magnefine filters do not plug up or bypass like a normal paper spin on type. Do you ever plan to change the filter?
 
Why do this when Mazda does not recommend transmission fluid change (and certainly not at 30,000miles). Aren't you falling prey to the Jiffy Lube propaganda about need to change fluids constantly? If Mazda or Ansin engineers thought it was necessary wouldn't it be part of the scheduled maintenance? There have been very few reports of transmission failure here except as related to the transfer case (a different issue altogether). Why not leave well enough alone?


Do you think Aisin or Mazda care if my transmission fails at 70K?
 
Why do this when Mazda does not recommend transmission fluid change (and certainly not at 30,000miles). Aren't you falling prey to the Jiffy Lube propaganda about need to change fluids constantly? If Mazda or Ansin engineers thought it was necessary wouldn't it be part of the scheduled maintenance? There have been very few reports of transmission failure here except as related to the transfer case (a different issue altogether). Why not leave well enough alone?
You raise a good point, as others have done in this forum and hundreds of other forums. I do this for longevity of the vehicle in general. I put a lot of miles on my vehicles, and prefer them to be trouble-free miles. Would the transmission work just fine to 100,000 miles? Very likely. But I plan on driving it another 100,000 miles after that. I can almost certainly guarantee you that it would fail during that second 100,000 miles if the fluid were not attended to. I can't guarantee that by changing the fluid this transmission will last to 200,000 miles, but it gives it a much healthier chance at it. And all for about 30 minutes of my time and about $20. And Mazda and Aisin don't care what happens when the warranty has expired. I do care, because I don't want to be stranded somewhere and stuck with a tow bill, transmission bill, and labor bill, let alone the inconvenience of it all. There may indeed be some Jiffy lube propaganda out there, but I march to the tune of my own education and experience. If you plan on selling or trading a vehicle before the warranty is up, fine, "leave well enough alone". Let the next poor schmuck deal with the problem. But I tend to take a little pride in knowing that I've done what I believe is the right thing. Just because a manufacturer doesn't mention it doesn't mean it shouldn't be done. But this is all just my opinion.
 
Thanks for the great explanation. I believe the Magnefine filters do not plug up or bypass like a normal paper spin on type. Do you ever plan to change the filter?
The Magnefine filters do have a bypass built into them, which makes them a fairly safe filter to use. I've not had one cause me any issues. And yes, I do plan on changing it after the next 20K miles when I do the next drain and fill. That's only because most of the ferrous material wear happens in the first 50K miles. Good to get that stuff outta there. I still plan on doing drain/fills every 20Kmiles after that, but will likely skip every other time on changing out the Magnefine.
 
Hello, new user here. Own a 2010 CX-9 FWD that we bought in January with ~35,000 mi on. I'm pretty sure it still has the original transmission fluid.

I have ~47,000 mi on now. The fluid is brownish, but no burnt smell whatsoever. When checking the oil it seems that the level is higher than the markings on the dip stick (above HOT mark even when engine is cool). I'm not sure if I should be worried? - doesn't seem right. The tranny shifts very smoothly, no problems at all.

I did two engine oil changes at the Mazda dealer since January, last one just a couple of days ago. Naturally the dealer is recommending a tranny flush, they charge ~$250 or so here (sounds like a rip off based on what i'm reading on these forums). I'm thinking of doing a simple drain and fill procedure -- will do it 3 times over the course of a few days.

I was browsing for oil and saw this: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Valvoline...utomatic-Transmission-Fluid-1-Gallon/15125768

According to Valvoline it is compatible with T-4 for Toyota, and by transitive property should be compatible with CX-9 as well. It's cheaper than Mobile or Toyota T-4 and looks like it's actually fully synthetic. Will this cause any issues to mix it with current oil there (non-synthetic) during the drain and fill? Also, since it's for 75000 mi plus, does it come with stronger detergents and may cause more problems?

Also, for the procedure itself, will I need to raise both of the sides of the front or can I raise just one side to get to the bolt comfortably? If so, which side? Does the OEM scissor jack provide enough height to get underneath the vehicle? Thanks for all the help!
 
DO NOT get under the car that's supported by any jack, especially the scissor jack. Get a set of ramps.

Tranny is on the driver's side, but if you get the ramps then it doesn't matter. Also, in a pinch (no pun intended), you can squeeze under the car with wheels on the ground.

Not sure about that Valvoline stuff. I personally get Toyota T-IV from eBay or a local dealer. If you buy a case of 12 from a local dealer, ask for a discount. I once paid about $6 a quart when I bought the whole case.

I did my drain/fill for the first time when the car had 90k, and the second time at 121k miles. The second time I did it twice with about 1 mile drive in between. I'd say at 47k you're wasting your money. Maybe do it once, not three times.

Good luck!
 
[I]"I was browsing for oil and saw this: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Valvoline...utomatic-Transmission-Fluid-1-Gallon/15125768

According to Valvoline it is compatible with T-4 for Toyota, and by transitive property should be compatible with CX-9 as well. It's cheaper than Mobile or Toyota T-4 and looks like it's actually fully synthetic. Will this cause any issues to mix it with current oil there (non-synthetic) during the drain and fill? Also, since it's for 75000 mi plus, does it come with stronger detergents and may cause more problems?

Also, for the procedure itself, will I need to raise both of the sides of the front or can I raise just one side to get to the bolt comfortably? If so, which side? Does the OEM scissor jack provide enough height to get underneath the vehicle? Thanks for all the help!"
[[/I][/I][/QUOTE][/I]



I have used Valvoline MaxLife DexMerc fluid with great success in several Hondas and Toyotas, and I can see why one would use "transitive property" to assume it is compatible with this Asin transmission, since Toyota T-IV is on the label. However, for certain reasons, I chose to go with the Mobil 3309 fluid in my CX-9. I won't advise you not to try the Valvoline, but since it does not actually specify any Mazda or AW application, I am hesitant to to do so myself. As far as mixing, non-synthetic and synthetic oils/fluids usually mix just fine.

And I must reiterate what has already been advised: Never get under any vehicle supported by a jack. Use jack stands, ramps, or a lift only. Raising both sides would probably be better for access/room anyway.
 
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Thanks for the heads up on not using the the jack. I'll get a pair of ramps.

As for Valvoline. I actually contacted the company and they did confirm that the oil is fully compatible with CX9 and will not void the warranty. They sent me an official letter (I can't attach a PDF here). The oil is not only compatible with T-4, but also with JWS 3309. Below is the full letter text. As a side note: they actually followed up with me within 12 hours and followed up second time to confirm that I got what I was looking for -- pretty good customer service, if you ask me, don't see that too often from a multinational company these days.

MaxLife ATF is a full synthetic automatic transmission fluid designed to meet the needs of the broadest range of
transmission designs. MaxLife ATF recommendations are based on a combination of field-testing and
laboratory testing.

Valvoline recommends MaxLife ATF in a broad range of transmissions. The list below is just a sample of
applications where Valvoline supports the use of MaxLife ATF. Valvoline has conducted in-house testing,
independent lab testing, and field-testing to support MaxLife ATF performance in these transmissions; however,
it is important to note that the respective vehicle manufacturers have neither evaluated nor approved MaxLife
ATF in these applications.

• Allison TES 389, C-4
• Audi/VW G-055-025-A2, G-052-162-A1/A2, G-052-990-A2, G-055-005-A2, G-055-162-A6, G-055-540-A2, G-060-162-A2
• BMW LT71141, LA2634, M-1375.4 fluids
• Chrysler Diamond SP-III, NAG-1, 3403 M115
• Ford MERCON.
• Ford FNR5
• Ford MERCON V
• Ford XL-12
• Ford MERCON SP
• MERCON LV
• GM 9986195
• GM DEXRON II, III and VI
• GM Autotrak II
• Honda/Acura ATF-Z1, DW1 (except in CVTs)
• Hyundai SP-II, SP-III, SP-IV, SPH-IV, SP4-M
• JWS 3309
• JASO 1A
• KIA SP-II and SP-III Fluids
• KIA Red 1
• Mazda M-V, FZ
• Mercedes Benz MB236.1, MB236.6, MB236.7, MB236.9, MB236.10, MB236.12, MB 236.14, MB 236.15
• Mercedes Benz NAG-1
• MOPAR AS68RC ATF
• Miscellaneous OEMs – M1375.4, M1375.6, L12108, LT 71141, ETL-7045E, ETL-8072B, 3403 M115, N402, AW-1
• Mitsubishi Diamond SP-II, SP-III, ATF-J3
• Nissan Matic-D, Matic-J, Matic-K, Matic-S, Matic W
• Saab 93 165 147
• Subaru ATF
• Subaru ATF-HP
• Toyota / Lexus Type T, T-III and T-IV
• Toyota WS
• Volvo 1161521 and 1161540, and STD 1273.41
• VW TL52162, LT71141
• ZF TE-ML-14B, 16L, 17C

Valvoline stands behind all of its products, including MaxLife ATF. Use of MaxLife ATF in transmissions where
recommended by Valvoline WILL NOT void the vehicle’s warranty. Vehicle manufacturers are restricted by
federal law from including the requirement of the use of a specific brand or trade name of product or service as a
condition of their warranty. The following is an extract from the Federal Trade Commission’s web site on
interpretation of the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act:



"Tie-In Sales" Provisions Generally, tie-in sales provisions are not allowed. Such a
provision would require a purchaser of the warranted product to buy an item or service from a
particular company to use with the warranted product in order to be eligible to receive a
remedy under the warranty. The following are examples of prohibited tie-in sales provisions.



In order to keep your new Plenum Brand Vacuum Cleaner warranty in
effect, you must use genuine Plenum Brand Filter Bags. Failure to have


scheduled maintenance performed, at your expense, by the Great American
Maintenance Company, Inc., voids this warranty.



Valvoline has conducted extensive testing and has a long history of successful use of MaxLife ATF in a broad
range of applications. In the unlikely event that you or your customer experiences any transmission damage
while using MaxLife ATF in a Valvoline recommended application, please contact Valvoline at 1-800-Team-
VAL for assistance.



While MaxLife ATF is designed to meet the special needs of higher mileage transmissions, new transmissions can
also benefit from its enhanced oxidation protection, shear stability, seal compatibility, wear protection and anti-
shudder protection. Many consumers have chosen to take advantage of this level of performance in newer
transmissions.



Valvoline does not recommend MaxLife ATF for use in most continuously variable transmissions (CVTs) unless
specifically noted nor in automatic transmissions where Ford Type F fluids are recommended.



Sincerely,



Thom Smith

Vice President, Lubricant Technology

Valvoline
 
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Ive ran nothing but MaxLife in my 2009 Kia Sportage since new. And it just hit 230,000 miles. So it has my stamp of approval. Good to know i can use it on my CX9 also.
 
Ive ran nothing but MaxLife in my 2009 Kia Sportage since new. And it just hit 230,000 miles. So it has my stamp of approval. Good to know i can use it on my CX9 also.

09 with 230k miles?! Dang! You drive A LOT monoxide (drive)

Also, seems like a pretty good response from a company. Also good to note that you now have documented proof if something should happen to the tranny that you followed all recommendations and should have the backing of both Mazda AND Valvoline.
 
09 with 230k miles?! Dang! You drive A LOT monoxide (drive)

I drive a 300 mile drive every Mon, then another almost 300 every Thurs. Plus in all truth i use my Sportage for most of random running around also. It helps me keep the miles from adding up on my 4 Mazda's.

Plus, in all truth, even though id hate to admit it publicly, the Kia is just a ton more reliable then my Mazda's. Ive actually been driving nothing but Kia/Hyundai's as my Daily drivers since 2002. Had a Tiburon, then got my V6 AWD Sportage. But neither ever made me smile like me Mazda's. :)
 
Thank you for the directions. It made this job alot easier. I ended up pulling the intake as I needed the extra space to get the fill bolt off. My fluid didn't look too bad at 32k miles. I think it could had gone another 30K in my situation. I will probably change it again around 60K. I ended up using the Valvoline Maxlife ATF.
 
Just to bump an old thread, I did a drain and fill tonight on my wife's 09CX9. Took all of 20 minutes. I just filled through the dipstick tube and it worked out well. About 3.25 Qts were drained. We'll see if it makes any difference. Car has ~115k miles so I figured it was time. The fluid was brownish red, but didn't smell burnt. I used Valvoline Maxlife ATF. I plan to attempt the transfer case tomorrow. I might do another drain/fill on the tranny during the next oil change.
 
I am going to do this soon. Thanks for the post. I will follow it. Car is at 137,000 miles.

One question, I noticed that the capacity for the system is 7.4 quarts. If you only get 3.5 out, there is still about half left in there. With this many miles on mine I am concerned that I shouldn't mix the old and new fluids (I will use the OEM Mazda stuff though). Any opinions on not being able to get all the old oil out? Mine is a 2WD. Maybe the spec I saw is for the AWD?
 
After doing a little more research, I have decided I am going to use the access points in this post to do a flush. Draining and refilling doesn't do anywhere near a complete job. One must get at the old fluid in the torque converter, valve body, and cooler as well. I have done this before on other cars. I am willing to try it here and will post back. I will buy 10 quarts to have on hand. Open the top access hole and add a tube/funnel to be able to refill. Drain the current fluid, plug, and refill with the same amount. Then take the return line, disconnect it and extend the end from the cooler into a bucket. Two people are necessary at this point. Start the engine and keep the fill tube/funnel filled to roughly match what the trans is pumping out. While running have the transmission selector moved through the positions. Once the fluid come out clear, stop the car, reinstall return line and finish filling the trans with the same amount that was pumped out. 100% flush.
 
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