Problems tapping power off fuse box

J

JTNY

:
Pearl White AWD GT w/Tech
I been trying to hard wire my dash cam using power from the fuse box. Specifically I am taping off the 3rd fuse from the top which is meant for the rear power outlet.

I plugged in a fused (2amp) mini ATC wire and have it spliced into a 12v DC converter to USB. With the ignition turned on, I used my multimeter and noticed there is no current at all coming out of the fuse.

For those who have hardwired anything (radar detector/dash cam) which fuse outlet are you using and which type of in-line fuse adaptor are you using?
 
I tapped into the fuse box for the rear power outlet as well, I used it for the remote wire for my amp... dont have any problems with it.
 
i3enny said:
I tapped into the fuse box for the rear power outlet as well, I used it for the remote wire for my amp... dont have any problems with it.
Click to expand...

Did you mini-atc fuse adaptor fit snuggley into the fuse slot? I'm not sure if its that or maybe the fact that I am only using a 2amp fuse that is causing the problem. Weird thing is if I connected straight to the battery it works fine.

Also what did you use as a ground? the little screw on the left holding the fuse box?
 
JTNY said:
Also what did you use as a ground? the little screw on the left holding the fuse box?
Click to expand...

^^ this. from the first post it sounds like you haven't wired in a ground yet, which you need to complete the circuit. Another thing to check, just in case, is the fuses. Make sure they haven't already popped, though I doubt they have already unless you accidentally shorted the circuit while installing.

I used the same fuse location when installing the LED lights inside my CX-5 and had no problems pulling power from it, as it is always on.
 
^this.

The fuse box will only provide you +12v. You will need to run a ground wire to the frame of the car.
 
Yea I tapped off the ground using the 10mm bolt that is holding the fuse box assembly together. I'll double check my fuses to make sure its not the cause of my problems.

What capacity fuses are you guys using? I have 2amp that should have been plenty enough for a tiny dash cam....
 
If the 2amp fuse wasn't big enough and for some reason the dash cam was pulling a higher amperage, the fuse would have popped. Otherwise, any current smaller than 2 amps should be running unimpeded when your dash cam is on.

I can't remember whether or not the screw on the fuse box is truly grounded to the frame of the car, but try a screw or nut that is behind or below the fuse box that is clearly on the metal frame. Also note that due to how you're hooking it up, there will always be current flowing to the dash cam even when the car is off unless there's an on/off switch on the cam (once you get current flowing in the first place).
 
JTNY said:
Yea I tapped off the ground using the 10mm bolt that is holding the fuse box assembly together. I'll double check my fuses to make sure its not the cause of my problems.

What capacity fuses are you guys using? I have 2amp that should have been plenty enough for a tiny dash cam....
Click to expand...


Isn't that a plastic piece holding the box together? If so then you may not be getting the ground you need.
 
Here's how I added an add-a-fuse circuit for my GPS. Note I used the bolt behind the fuse panel that attaches it to the firewall. No grounding problems...

attachment.php
 
Have you checked if there's a voltage coming out of Fuse 11 (the fuse location you chose)? I don't even know if that spot is normally powered, as there's no pre-installed fuse according to the CX-5 Owner's Manual. When I installed my add-a-fuse, I used Fuse 3, which is the 1st 15A fuse underneath the 30A big fuse for the power seats. Fuse 3 is what protects the rear 12v outlet and is always on. That might be your problem, so try switching to that fuse spot.

Looks like right now you only have one fuse in the add-a-fuse just for the dash cam. You will have to purchase a new standard mini-ATC 15A fuse to replace the existing low-profile mini fuse to protect the rear outlet. You don't have to put in a fuse for the outlet, but then it won't be powered at all.
 
First off - thanks for all the feedback fella's! Will be tackling this issue tomorrow once I get my weekend chores done and the wife allows me.

Second: Sterling: I am taping the fuse from 3 (similar to where JonW has his tapped). I am thinking the metal screw to the left of the fuse box is not properly grounded. Instead I'll try using one of the bolts that are behind the firewall (granted i will need to splice in a longer cable to the 12v dc to usb power adaptor).





SterlingArcher said:
Have you checked if there's a voltage coming out of Fuse 11 (the fuse location you chose)? I don't even know if that spot is normally powered, as there's no pre-installed fuse according to the CX-5 Owner's Manual. When I installed my add-a-fuse, I used Fuse 3, which is the 1st 15A fuse underneath the 30A big fuse for the power seats. Fuse 3 is what protects the rear 12v outlet and is always on. That might be your problem, so try switching to that fuse spot.

Looks like right now you only have one fuse in the add-a-fuse just for the dash cam. You will have to purchase a new standard mini-ATC 15A fuse to replace the existing low-profile mini fuse to protect the rear outlet. You don't have to put in a fuse for the outlet, but then it won't be powered at all.
Click to expand...
 
JTNY said:
First off - thanks for all the feedback fella's! Will be tackling this issue tomorrow once I get my weekend chores done and the wife allows me.

Second: Sterling: I am taping the fuse from 3 (similar to where JonW has his tapped). I am thinking the metal screw to the left of the fuse box is not properly grounded. Instead I'll try using one of the bolts that are behind the firewall (granted i will need to splice in a longer cable to the 12v dc to usb power adaptor).
Click to expand...

Ah, JTNY: for some reason I thought you posted that picture. Didn't realize that JonW was the poster. My apologies for the confusion caused, if any. But yes, try using a different ground bolt. I hope that's the solution!
 
try using the 30amp fuse, tthere should be an empty one for "powerwindows", mine was used to power led door sills and under dash lighting.
 
SterlingArcher said:
I used the same fuse location when installing the LED lights inside my CX-5 and had no problems pulling power from it, as it is always on.
Click to expand...
Is the third fuse from the top on the second column always on?
The post showing how to hardwire a Valentine 1 says it only powers on with ignition on the 2013 model. I have the 2015 model and I was looking to hardwire a dash cam as well.

Also, does anyone know why some fuses in the description behind the cover have parentheses around them and some others not? Like the P.WINDOW2 25A, D.LOCK 25A and MIRROR 7.5A.
 
Take a look in How To Section for wiring a valentine one - pictures + instructions...
 
My recollection is that it does matter. If the other way you are bypassing the fuse in the circuit.

Take the fuse out and reverse it and you'll still get power.
 
Don't think it matter. If it did, it would matter which way you inserted the fuse.
 
JonW said:
My recollection is that it does matter. If the other way you are bypassing the fuse in the circuit.

Take the fuse out and reverse it and you'll still get power.
Click to expand...

That is completely correct.

The newly added circuit is protected by the smallest fuse anyway.
 
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