Ready to build my MazdaSpeed

ZealoustheEnder

ZealoustheEnder

Contributor
:
2003 MSP
Hello everyone,

I am within a month of paying off my 2003.5 MazdaSpeed Protg and I am ready to upgrade. My First car was a used 2001 Protg ES and it was a great car but sadly it did not last more than a year. I was rear ended and it was totaled, I still to this day miss the 41 mpg highway 
When the Speed came out in 2003 I was already in a replacement car and could see the paying an extra 15,000 over my replacement vehicle. Anyway I now have the car I always wanted and I want to rebuild it. Thanks to this forum and all of the builders that have gone before me I havent had to ask to many questions. So thank you everybody but now it's time to call on you all thanks in advanced.
 
Things that have broken and had to be replaced.
The Waste Gate was replaced with a Forge with the mild spring I believe 6-9 psi
The Clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder and the clutch house.
The Clutch house was replaced with a braded line.
Valve cover gasket.
Only upgrades thus far include Injen cold air intake and the Forge Waste Gate.
I just found an FS-DE out of a 2002 Protg with 50,000 miles on it. 290.00 bucks later and some blood and sweat I am the new proud owner.
Here’s what I understand from all the research I have done.
I need to get my oil pump brought up to spec having the internal presser bypass disabled running in an external PR.
Forged Pistons and Rods.
Compression ratio should be dropped from factory 9.5:1 to 8.5:1 for forced induction.
LSD housing should be welded while I have the engine out for the swap.
As far as head work I am at a little bit of a loss.
As far as the Intake I am going to delete VICS and lock tight the butterflies on the other system.
Port and polish the intake and Head including port matching.
Cams I believe from what I’ve read I should just look for the JSpec FS-ZE cams.
As far as the ECU I wish I could get the new cobb v3 but they said it only works on the Jspec MazdaSpeed Protg. So Spit second AFC to bring the AFR to 14.5
What about valves and springs?
So opinion time… anything I have missed
 
valves and springs can be purchased from *************. If you get the dual valve springs though, be aware that your original retainers must be machined in order to fit the smaller diameter interior spring (or you can buy new retainers) very good upgrade to get

what about camshafts? you have a couple options: you can buy stage 1-2 or the Japanese versions readily available on multiple sites for about ~200 +- each or you can have your cams reworked by a shop to give you the integral stage 2, 2+, or 3.. but youll have to remove your stock cams and send em out for about 4 weeks (and about 800$)

you need to have all your safety stuff in place too.. boost gauge, wideband A/F gauge..

If youre doing the diff and have the trans off.. Id put a new clutch on there.. 300$ and you don't have to open it again. when I had my trans open I replaced all my bearings and seals.. but that's not necessary if its all in good order

I think that'd be a good start... do you have a front mounted intercooler or the original plastic pipes and side intercooler? that is a definite upgrade, even if you just go with basic hardpipes..
 
As far as power goals I would like to push as far as I can without upgrading the turbo and going to a standalone EMS.
I got in touch with a great machine shop that was recommended to me by **********/Sure.
The guy knows his craft, but I am doing my do diligence to check around town before I decide.

I really wanted to do the exhaust manifold from PG but they don't carry it any more and haven't answerd my e-mail :-(

Gauges I got a ProSport Oil pressure on my currnent engine as I am at 160000 miles and I notice all the signs of low oil pressure.
Not to mention when I first drive the vehicle the wastegate was broken and I was ragging on it hard. I am supprised I didn't blow it up! As far as AF and Boost I monitor that with the the Torque app through the MazdaSpeed ECU.

Malcantry I have the Sidemount intercooler which I am going to upgrade alonge with hard pipes.
 
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I have pistons, rods, and the cams you are looking for. Check out the protege for sale threads.
 
Seeing that I have made MANY a MISTAKE with the Protg.................I would say you SHOULD get into a STANDALONE before anything else, and a proper tune and see how much of a difference you get.To me it makes little sense adding s*** when your factory tune cannot take advantage of the stuff you're adding to the car .Why do I say that? Well you run super rich from the factory, there's power right there in your lap just waiting to come out. I'm sure you will be surprised what a GOOD tuner can do for you with out any other "up grades"......He can lean you out some, move your powerband, up the boost. etc ect. Most of the top tier cars up grade their software FIRST ( Skylines,EVOS etc etc.).....I say this only 'cause you seem to not want to break the bank with your Protg which it TOTALLY understandable. I'd also get a DOC B OIL PUMP, and a MFactory lsd. ceramic coat the stock manifold ,get a POPE down pipe and some good tires.........oh, leave your compression at 9.5 to 1 you will have no problems with that at all.
 
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If you are going to do it, do it right! Standalone is the way to go, IMHO! Doc B is the 2nd best investment I made with mine, Standalone was the first! Haltech has made the car 1000% better. I am not a fan of the Prosport gauges, I highly recommend the AEM Tru-Boost Gauge/Boost Controller and the AEM Wideband. If you have done so already, upgrade the motor mounts and look into the AWR oil pan too!


Reach out to Cres @ CR3 Motorsports.....he always has deals going on!
 
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TURBOJ1 said:
Seeing that I have made MANY a MISTAKE with the Protg.................I would say you SHOULD get into a STANDALONE before anything else, and a proper tune and see how much of a difference you get.To me it makes little sense adding s*** when your factory tune cannot take advantage of the stuff you're adding to the car .Why do I say that? Well you run super rich from the factory, there's power right there in your lap just waiting to come out. I'm sure you will be surprised what a GOOD tuner can do for you with out any other "up grades"......He can lean you out some, move your powerband, up the boost. etc ect. Most of the top tier cars up grade their software FIRST ( Skylines,EVOS etc etc.).....I say this only 'cause you seem to not want to break the bank with your Protg which it TOTALLY understandable. I'd also get a DOC B OIL PUMP, and a MFactory lsd. ceramic coat the stock manifold ,get a POPE down pipe and some good tires.........oh, leave your compression at 9.5 to 1 you will have no problems with that at all.
Click to expand...

Indeed that is why I am here on the forum to learn from everyones experance with the car.
Now from my understanding running a standalone you lose all the gauges turn signals everything that the stock ECU controls.
So I should keep the compression up? Why do all the sites push lower compression for FI engines?
 
Perro del Sol said:
If you are going to do it, do it right! Standalone is the way to go, IMHO! Doc B is the 2nd best investment I made with mine, Standalone was the first! Haltech has made the car 1000% better. I am not a fan of the Prosport gauges, I highly recommend the AEM Tru-Boost Gauge/Boost Controller and the AEM Wideband. If you have done so already, upgrade the motor mounts and look into the AWR oil pan too!


Reach out to Cres @ CR3 Motorsports.....he always has deals going on!
Click to expand...

Motor mounts are street unit 68 duro full set.
I am trying to get in touch with Doc B racing and MP3Racer with no luck.
If I have to send the pump to swian tech on my own thats what I have to do... I know I get let my engine starve of oil.
It's the haltech 1000 right...should be lots of preload tunes for my car with how long it's been around.
 
thuzil said:
I have pistons, rods, and the cams you are looking for. Check out the protege for sale threads.
Click to expand...

I Thuzil
Are the rods and pistons forged and are you selling the cams and the head together?
If I can get a solid answer on running the lower compression I would like to get these items from you.
 
Personally I'm not a fan of lower compression and boost. My first setup was 8.0-1CR and with a GT2871 and it was laggy. I personally like higher compression and lower boost. My second motor was a 9.5-1CR with the same turbo setup and it was night and day difference. With regards to buying used rods and pistons: you need to do your research. The rods will likely need to be resized and the pistons should be coated at the minimum. You need to mic the pistons. Read up on used pistons and rods.
 
RyanJayG said:
Personally I'm not a fan of lower compression and boost. My first setup was 8.0-1CR and with a GT2871 and it was laggy. I personally like higher compression and lower boost. My second motor was a 9.5-1CR with the same turbo setup and it was night and day difference. With regards to buying used rods and pistons: you need to do your research. The rods will likely need to be resized and the pistons should be coated at the minimum. You need to mic the pistons. Read up on used pistons and rods.
Click to expand...

I like the idea of high compression and low boost since the stock turbo is only good to 15psi max.
 
ZealoustheEnder said:
Indeed that is why I am here on the forum to learn from everyones experance with the car.
Now from my understanding running a standalone you lose all the gauges turn signals everything that the stock ECU controls.
So I should keep the compression up? Why do all the sites push lower compression for FI engines?
Click to expand...

No you do not have to lose all your gauges but it depends on how you wire standalone in. In my signature i have a link to info that may help you with installing haltech and probably answer many of your questions on the subject. Im running 17psi with Gt3071r on E85, stand alone opens up a world of possibilities!


Everyone likes to lower compression because its considered safer(less likely to knock/preignition). I would advice to stick with stock compression mainly for convenience since they are easy to find. I also have and engine build guide in my signature that may help you out.


also why is everyone saying 9.5:1 is stock? Last time i checked it is 9.1:1?
 
ZealoustheEnder said:
Indeed that is why I am here on the forum to learn from everyones experance with the car.
Now from my understanding running a standalone you lose all the gauges turn signals everything that the stock ECU controls.
So I should keep the compression up? Why do all the sites push lower compression for FI engines?
Click to expand...

You absolutely do not lose the gauges, turn signals etc. What you're doing with the standalone is taking control of the stock ECU functions, ignition,fuel, timing etc ect. which does not affect your turn signals, gauges.
The reason for the low compression that you're seeing on various sites is mainly 1) old technology 2) people wanting to run high boost ( like 25psi plus) 9.5 to 1 with a standalone is not an issue what so ever. If you have the money get the haltech 1000. You get all the bells and whistles you can think of BUT the haltech sprint 500 is MORE than capable of doing every thing you NEED plus a lil more.

What are your power goals? 250,300,350hp?....If you're think about going past 275/300 the you NEED to address your transmission also, there's no question about that.... I once had a flame session with someone on this forum about how much it would take to build a RELIABLE Protg and I said it would cost about 6k and he thought I was crazy but!

Haltech $ 1000
Wiring Haltech $400 - 600 ( unless doing it yourself)
Tuning $ 400-600
Rods/Pistons $ 900- 1000
Oil pan $300
Radiator $ 250
Doc B $ 200 ? ( can't remember)
Injectors $ 300- 500
Fuel pump $125
Head gasket $ 100
Machining/cleaning/decking $ 350 - 500
Labor to install $ ??? ( unless you're doing it yourself)
Miscellaneous $ ????

This is by no means everything you will need but you can see how fast s*** can add up.....Just prepping you.

We have not addressed your transmission yet so.....

I would get the standalone, up the boost to about 12-15 psi and run that.....12-15psi with a tune will feel AMAZING compared to the stock ecu, especially because our cars are so light weight. Then once you know how that feels later on when you have a complete understanding of what's involved to build your car you can do so.....Think about it.
 
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ap123 said:
No you do not have to lose all your gauges but it depends on how you wire standalone in. In my signature i have a link to info that may help you with installing haltech and probably answer many of your questions on the subject. Im running 17psi with Gt3071r on E85, stand alone opens up a world of possibilities!


Everyone likes to lower compression because its considered safer(less likely to knock/preignition). I would advice to stick with stock compression mainly for convenience since they are easy to find. I also have and engine build guide in my signature that may help you out.


also why is everyone saying 9.5:1 is stock? Last time i checked it is 9.1:1?
Click to expand...
When ever I look at pistons it says stock compression 9.5:1
I have the shop manual but I don't think it even says :-(
 
TURBOJ1 said:
You absolutely do not lose the gauges, turn signals etc. What you're doing with the standalone is taking control of the stock ECU functions, ignition,fuel, timing etc ect. which does not affect your turn signals, gauges.
The reason for the low compression that you're seeing on various sites is mainly 1) old technology 2) people wanting to run high boost ( like 25psi plus) 9.5 to 1 with a standalone is not an issue what so ever. If you have the money get the haltech 1000. You get all the bells and whistles you can think of BUT the haltech sprint 500 is MORE than capable of doing every thing you NEED plus a lil more.

What are your power goals? 250,300,350hp?....If you're think about going past 275/300 the you NEED to address your transmission also, there's no question about that.... I once had a flame session with someone on this forum about how much it would take to build a RELIABLE Protg and I said it would cost about 6k and he thought I was crazy but!

Haltech $ 1000
Wiring Haltech $400 - 600 ( unless doing it yourself)
Tuning $ 400-600
Rods/Pistons $ 900- 1000
Oil pan $300
Radiator $ 250
Doc B $ 200 ? ( can't remember)
Injectors $ 300- 500
Fuel pump $125
Head gasket $ 100
Machining/cleaning/decking $ 350 - 500
Labor to install $ ??? ( unless you're doing it yourself)
Miscellaneous $ ????

This is by no means everything you will need but you can see how fast s*** can add up.....Just prepping you.

We have not addressed your transmission yet so.....

I would get the standalone, up the boost to about 12-15 psi and run that.....12-15psi with a tune will feel AMAZING compared to the stock ecu, especially because our cars are so light weight. Then once you know how that feels later on when you have a complete understanding of what's involved to build your car you can do so.....Think about it.
Click to expand...

EMS first is was and is my plan. I know the car runs rich and that it will buy me build time on the used block.
If I had my dream list of parts I came to a number of 10k but 4k is wish list which brings me to funny enough the build number you came too :) buy the way I hate E85 and since the Race Track near me started offering ethanol free 90 octane I run that whenever possible. The Car loves it!

Transmission will be taken care of during the engine swap process... no need to do any work twice.
 
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But at 160,000 miles, maybe you should consider a different turbo.. there's a good chance your stock one doesn't have a lot of life left in it. Besides, if you're gonna drop the cash to build your engine and get a standalone, you can easily accommodate a bigger turbo to make real power. Don't restrict yourself to T2 setups either, if you're in the market for a new turbo manifold then keep T3 flange setups in mind too, people like to restrict themselves to T2 flange turbos because they're "stock replacement", but there are plenty of amazing T3 flange turbos out there that are both cheaper and build boost better than their T2 counterparts.

Plus, you can get a T3 manifold AND matching downpipe from Speed Circuit, whereas T2 manifolds and DPs are essentially extinct by now...
 
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KrayzieFox said:
But at 160,000 miles, maybe you should consider a different turbo.. there's a good chance your stock one doesn't have a lot of life left in it. Besides, if you're gonna drop the cash to build your engine and get a standalone, you can easily accommodate a bigger turbo to make real power. Don't restrict yourself to T2 setups either, if you're in the market for a new turbo manifold then keep T3 flange setups in mind too, people like to restrict themselves to T2 flange turbos because they're "stock replacement", but there are plenty of amazing T3 flange turbos out there that are both cheaper and build boost better than their T2 counterparts. Plus, you can get a T3 manifold from Speed Circuit, whereas T2 manifolds are essentially extinct by now...
Click to expand...

It sounds/ looks like he's just gonna go standalone then later on build up the car, which would open up a new world of opportunities ie Bigger turbo,T3 ect ect.
 
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