2013 Mazda5 turbocharger installation

In all seriousness, how are things going? Have you ran into any hurdles or has dialing it in been going smoothly?

Slowly, very slowly.

I'm getting a bit impatient, wanting to move forward. When DT was slow with the NA tune - whatever, it was kind of just for fun anyway. Now that I've actually got the finished product assembled and waiting on tuning, the slow turnaround is starting to get to me.
 
Attached is the cost report for the turbo. The grand total was about $4750.

Actual parts cost about $4670. By far the largest potential savings is to use a stock ms3 K04 turbo: at a used price of ~$300 it would chop $1k off of the budget.

I paid a bit under $100 for shipping, bought about $50 in required tools, and another $100 worth of tools that I wanted but didn't need (just needed an excuse). I don't count tools as part of the project cost, because I consider them an investment since I will keep them forever and use them for future projects as well.

Also, you can see at the bottom of the page that my total cost, all-inclusive for the life of the vehicle, is about $26k. (maintenance items like oil changes not included)


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  • Mazda Turbo Cost Report.xls
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Im sort off ignoring this thread to keep my mind on other thing because of the suspence.... :) really want to know how much power and what it moves like... Cant wait for some videos. And a dyno... Im guessi g you feel about the same? What is holding you back? The tunning?
 
Attached is the cost report for the turbo. The grand total was about $4600.

Actual parts cost about $4500. By far the largest potential savings is to use a stock ms3 K04 turbo: at a used price of ~$300 it would chop $1k off of the budget.

I paid a bit under $100 for shipping, bought about $50 in required tools, and another $100 worth of tools that I wanted but didn't need (just needed an excuse). I don't count tools as part of the project cost, because I consider them an investment since I will keep them forever and use them for future projects as well.

Also, you can see at the bottom of the page that my total cost, all-inclusive for the life of the vehicle, is about $26k. (maintenance items like oil changes not included)
Really appreciate the spreadsheets. Helps to put things in perspective. That's a nice chunk of cash but I bet the end result is very rewarding.

Questions:
1) Do the stock injectors not flow enough for your needs?
2) Did you swap in a 151 battery? Was there a space issue? LOL. Here I though only Fit owners use this oddity. Could you maybe use a 26 or even 51? A 151 in the Mz5 maybe a problem for cold weather folks sooner than later.
 
1) Do the stock injectors not flow enough for your needs?
2) Did you swap in a 151 battery? Was there a space issue?

1. No, more power means more air and fuel (obviously). Stock injectors are about 242cc/min, I'm using 550cc/min. 550 is on the large size for my goal power, but the next common size down would have been borderline (high duty cycle required).
2. Yes, the 151 battery was kind of an impulse buy, lol. I was at Walmart buying fluids and said, "F-it, I'm buying a smaller battery". The stock battery would have worked, but it would have been tight - I would have had to slide the inlet pipe an inch "into" the silicone coupler for the turbo intake, and I would have had to cut the battery box. This way I'm happier with the intake, and I have the battery box intact for whenever I stock out in a few years (I'm saving all the stock parts).

Im sort off ignoring this thread to keep my mind on other thing because of the suspence.... :) really want to know how much power and what it moves like... Cant wait for some videos. And a dyno... Im guessi g you feel about the same? What is holding you back? The tunning?

Tuning is very slow. Kind of frustrating actually.
 
Tuning is very slow. Kind of frustrating actually.

Yeah. I bet... But obviously its worth it and important... Dont want more work besides what has already been done....

Are you driving it right now? Is it a Daily driver or a project car/wagon/van... (What is a Mazda5 technically?)

Does it start? Im guessing it idles but not too good when boost comes?

Curious to how the stock ecu or map handles... If it still has it.
 
lol...$160.00 bucks for a 30 dollar sensor.. (map sensor )

you don't really want to use the K04 with a 2.5L, I have personally and It spiked boost even with a 5psi wastegate. plug it makes boost so low in rpm, it's not safe.
 
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Thanks for the constructive addition to the thread, OV. /s

Yeah, $160 is high, but:
1. Technically it's not for just the sensor, it also includes PnP wiring harness connectors, which was a primary requirement of this build. No cutting stock harness, and easy conversion back to stock. Edge charges $65 for the harness (and $35 for the sensor), so...
2. Yes, I overpaid, but I paid $160 for what costs $100 elsewhere, not $30. I think it's probably the only thing on my build list that I overpaid for significantly.
3. Sometimes it is worth the $ to pay for convenience and have somebody else who has done the work ship you the part you need, know it will work, and be done with it.
 
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Are you driving it right now?
Is it a Daily driver or a project car/wagon/van... (What is a Mazda5 technically?)
Does it start? Im guessing it idles but not too good when boost comes?
Curious to how the stock ecu or map handles... If it still has it.

Yes, driving right now.
Daily driver.
Starts and runs fine, totally normal. Not making boost while initial tuning is being done.
Stock ECU, has been (and continues to be) flash tuned.
 
you don't really want to use the K04 with a 2.5L, I have personally and It spiked boost even with a 5psi wastegate. plug it makes boost so low in rpm, it's not safe.

yes, the immediate and significant low rpm power is what finally swayed me away from the k04. I was considering the BNR S1 at $900 as an intermediate option because it has a larger WG compared to stock k04 and controls boost better, but the small size and quick spool characteristics of the k04 still exist (of course I want quick spool and immediate power, but like you said, not at too low of an rpm, since that is dangerous with the MZR rods.)
 
Well you definitely picked a good turbo for the job, you should easily get 250whp with a mild 7psi or even possibly more ( Tr-point engineering makes that with the 2.5L, with a piggyback)

Hopefully it all goes well and Dynotronics doesn't take too long to get it done, there are some people watching this to see how it goes before they turbo their cars.

One thing I can say is, don't be afraid of boost on the 2.5L, the engine is tough as s***. A hell of a lot stronger than the old 2.3L N/A junk . 7-10psi isn't going to hurt it, But definitely listen to your tuner when it comes to when to get into boost.
 
Can you expand on your comment that the 2.5L is a strong engine, especially compared to the NA 2.3?

You are not the first one I've heard say that, but I've never really asked what aspect of the 2.5 makes it so much stronger.
 
Can you expand on your comment that the 2.5L is a strong engine, especially compared to the NA 2.3?

You are not the first one I've heard say that, but I've never really asked what aspect of the 2.5 makes it so much stronger.

They are built quite better, if you look at the internals you can see.

Examples:
The 2.5L has the biggest intake ports of the MZR's. (2.0,2.3,2.3 DISI) and highest flowing head
The pistons are lightened, yet still stout, and are dish.
The connecting rods are forged, and quite similar to the 2.3 DISI engine, they share the same size big end, 90% of their dimensions are the same, except the 2.5L small end of the rod (20mm wrist pin ) and the pins are fully float, not press fit. and they have good rod bolts.
The crank is *controversy* also forged, some models are. but even the PMF cranks can take *at least* 400WHP / 9000 rpm without problems.
The bock itself is similar to any MZR, yet the cylinder walls are not as thin as some would believe.
The 2.5L CRANK SPROCKET design is way better than the 2.3 DISI ( unless they updated it). the sprocket and oil sprocket is a single piece, but the DISI is 2 separate pieces that require 3 torque washers, higher chance of slippage with large power.


the 2.3L N/A is a joke.
Longest connecting rods of all MZR's (2.0/2.3DISI/2.5) and weakest. a touch over 240whp and you might send one flying. That's their biggest downfall
also the stock head isn't as good as the 2.5
 
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