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- 2012 Mazda 5
Koni Sport rear for the 2012+
- Thread starter FukuokaKid
- Start date
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- 2012 Mazda 5
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- 2008 Mazda5 GT
Why not just call/email them directly to clarify? You want something do right, you gotta DIY.
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- 2012 Mazda 5
Just did that. The only specifics that the Tech could give was that the 54 uses a 50mm rear shock bushing and the and the 53 is a 35mm bushing. Got to go measure I guess.
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- 2012 Mazda 5
Ok. Measured my rear bushing. The 2012 uses a 50mm rear shock bushing. That means...
Koni Sport
front
8741-1490LSPORT
8741-1490RSPORT
rear
8040 1354Sport
FSD
2100 4045
Koni Sport
front
8741-1490LSPORT
8741-1490RSPORT
rear
8040 1354Sport
FSD
2100 4045
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- 2012 Mazda 5
Ended up with Koni and H&R Sports. 8040-1354Sport is the correct fitment fir the rears. Installed and aligned over the long weekend. All 4 set to 1 complete turn from full soft. Rears are a PITA to adjust. Have to completely remove, compress and turn. Keeping the pressure on while turning.
Ride quality is excellent for most roads. I do think that the fronts hit the bumpstops on even the not so big dips/bumps but even that is reasonably controlled. The rears I believe sit on the bump stop. These are the foam one on the shock itself. Not the outboard rubber ones. I think the MS3 guys have this problem as well. Being that it is foam, I don't think it adds to much to the spring rate. I did develop a creek/squeak since the install on the driver rear. Cant tell if its coincidentally my Racing Beat RSB or shock/spring. May revisit that corner tonight.
Definitely the hardest part was getting the front struts free. I used the reverse bolt and coin method. The bolt punched through the quarter and still the struts were stuck. PITA!!! Made sure to slather on the anti-seize when installing the new koni.
Alignment... WAO! talk about camber gain. The H&Rs are a small drop F1.4/R1.3 but the end result is about F-1.6/R-2.3 negative camber. I usually like some toe out in my alignment but that only accelerates camber wear. Opted for 0.06" toe in at all four corners to help even out the wear.
Ride quality is excellent for most roads. I do think that the fronts hit the bumpstops on even the not so big dips/bumps but even that is reasonably controlled. The rears I believe sit on the bump stop. These are the foam one on the shock itself. Not the outboard rubber ones. I think the MS3 guys have this problem as well. Being that it is foam, I don't think it adds to much to the spring rate. I did develop a creek/squeak since the install on the driver rear. Cant tell if its coincidentally my Racing Beat RSB or shock/spring. May revisit that corner tonight.
Definitely the hardest part was getting the front struts free. I used the reverse bolt and coin method. The bolt punched through the quarter and still the struts were stuck. PITA!!! Made sure to slather on the anti-seize when installing the new koni.
Alignment... WAO! talk about camber gain. The H&Rs are a small drop F1.4/R1.3 but the end result is about F-1.6/R-2.3 negative camber. I usually like some toe out in my alignment but that only accelerates camber wear. Opted for 0.06" toe in at all four corners to help even out the wear.
Attachments
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- 2012 Mazda 5
Pics & notes
Some pics post install and installation notes. Sorry didn't take pics during the install.
The front shock. I couldn't find information on the white cap that hold the oem dust boot so I just re-installed it. So far it seems OK although it does limit travel a bit.
I've seen some post saying that our cars do not have ant front camber adjustments. I found that we do have a little bit of adjust-ability available. By loosening the 3 bolts that hold the strut one can move it inward (for more camber) or outward (for less camber). This has to be done with both front wheels on the ground. The little metal pin can help keep you in check so you don't mess up the caster settings as well. I set mine to the most negative to dial out as much understeer as possible. I would only adjust more positive if a rear camber kit were installed. Alignment was not too bad. Final setting were Front Camber L-1.7 R-1.7 Rear Camber L-2.3 R-2.4. All wheels toe'd in 0.06 to try and even out the tire wear.
The rear Spring and Shock. The rear spring has both top and bottom positions. Be sure to pull out the top rubber seat and look for the notch. I sprayed a little silicone when reinstalling to make sure everything slid in correctly. The rear shock does sit on it's bump stop. I noticed this right away. Hopefully as the bump stop deteriorates the rear wont sag. I also noticed that it squeaks when the bump stop is compressed and expands pressing against the dust boot. Pull off the dust boot and put a little grease on the lip that holds it on.
Some pics post install and installation notes. Sorry didn't take pics during the install.
The front shock. I couldn't find information on the white cap that hold the oem dust boot so I just re-installed it. So far it seems OK although it does limit travel a bit.
I've seen some post saying that our cars do not have ant front camber adjustments. I found that we do have a little bit of adjust-ability available. By loosening the 3 bolts that hold the strut one can move it inward (for more camber) or outward (for less camber). This has to be done with both front wheels on the ground. The little metal pin can help keep you in check so you don't mess up the caster settings as well. I set mine to the most negative to dial out as much understeer as possible. I would only adjust more positive if a rear camber kit were installed. Alignment was not too bad. Final setting were Front Camber L-1.7 R-1.7 Rear Camber L-2.3 R-2.4. All wheels toe'd in 0.06 to try and even out the tire wear.
The rear Spring and Shock. The rear spring has both top and bottom positions. Be sure to pull out the top rubber seat and look for the notch. I sprayed a little silicone when reinstalling to make sure everything slid in correctly. The rear shock does sit on it's bump stop. I noticed this right away. Hopefully as the bump stop deteriorates the rear wont sag. I also noticed that it squeaks when the bump stop is compressed and expands pressing against the dust boot. Pull off the dust boot and put a little grease on the lip that holds it on.
Attachments
Looks really good with the stock wheels. Someone on here (I think it was DKaz) once said that a lowered car on stock wheels looks better than aftermarket wheels on a stock car and I tend to agree. I think that mazda has some good looking wheels to begin with and don't see many aftermarket that appeal to me as much. Good looking 5.
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- 2008 Mazda5 GT
Looks good!
Did you take measurements of the H&R springs to see how much travel you have compare that to the Koni ‘s troke? Take that and look at Fatcat or eibach for replacement (and shorter) bump stops.
Did you take measurements of the H&R springs to see how much travel you have compare that to the Koni ‘s troke? Take that and look at Fatcat or eibach for replacement (and shorter) bump stops.
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- 2012 Mazda 5
***Update***
Kind of regretting going with Koni. Pull the rears last night to make an adjustment and found that one is blown. It doesn't seem to be leaking but it is very easy to compress and no matter how stiff is set the rebound to there is no rebound dampening. Faxed in the warranty paperwork this morning. We'll see how it goes. Shipping is going to kill. Lucky I live Hawaii. NOT!
Kind of regretting going with Koni. Pull the rears last night to make an adjustment and found that one is blown. It doesn't seem to be leaking but it is very easy to compress and no matter how stiff is set the rebound to there is no rebound dampening. Faxed in the warranty paperwork this morning. We'll see how it goes. Shipping is going to kill. Lucky I live Hawaii. NOT!
Not good, I'm getting ready to install my Koni Sports on my Mz5 this Friday! Robotaz has reported two blown Koni FSD's on his car. I was hoping it was only the FSD's, but now.....
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- 2012 Mazda 5
I know... I'm trying not to think about the fronts. I want to check it but its a PITA to pull. Anyone have a good method the check it while still installed? Bounce method is not reliable. The swaybar links the set so a good one may compensate for a bad one. Which was the case for the rears.
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- 2012 Mazda 5
Same here. Will have to see how this replacement thing goes. If another fails will look to switching to Bilstein.
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- 2012 Mazda 5
Just swapped out the dead rear Koni. Wow what a difference! Now just need to decide if I'm going to pull the fronts to check them as well. (bang)
phunky.buddha
Booga Booga?
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- DFW TX
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- No mo MZ5 want MX5
Warranty replacement?
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- 2012 Mazda 5
Shock is still in transit. Everything from Hawaii takes longer. Will update once I hear back from them.
