Do the instructions in this thread not work for you? PDF file link in the 2nd post.
www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread....gram-a-Smart-Key-myself&highlight=program+key
2013 Smart Key Programming Instructions?
- Thread starter chance72
- Start date
Do the instructions in this thread not work for you? PDF file link in the 2nd post.
www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread....gram-a-Smart-Key-myself&highlight=program+key
I am wondering if i was misunderstood. My situation is this. I have three switch blade remotes. I got 2 with the car and one that i purchased on ebay which i had cut and programmed both the key and remote myself. My question is can i buy and just program a transponder key alone? This would give me 3 switchblade remotes and a transponder key. I had put the item number from ebay so that maybe someone can tell me if this is doable? All input would be greatly appreciated.
Hmm, I thought I understood that correctly. I could be wrong though. The post with the PDF I linked you to has those instructions on how to program any and all additional keys (up to 8 keys) (at least that's how I read those instructions to be for). I did assume that you used that same key programming instructions for the key portion of your 3rd switchblade...but again, I'm assuming you have to program the key portion separate from the remote (since I've never programmed a switchblade type before). If my ignorance is causing confusion, my apologies. Hopefully someone else can provide the correct information.
In any case, I converted that particular PDF to an image and linked it below:
Not Working
Got two key FOBs with my 2011 CX 9 and they work fine. Bought a 3rd from an E-Bay merchant and trying to program it without much success. There seems to be two variations for programming and neither has worked to date. The one in this quote has this line: "8. Open the driver-side front door, press the door switch twice, and then close the door." Anyone know what they're referring to when they mention the door switch?
Got two key FOBs with my 2011 CX 9 and they work fine. Bought a 3rd from an E-Bay merchant and trying to program it without much success. There seems to be two variations for programming and neither has worked to date. The one in this quote has this line: "8. Open the driver-side front door, press the door switch twice, and then close the door." Anyone know what they're referring to when they mention the door switch?
Just a little sprinkling of wonderment to this topic. I've got the so called "smart key" and its' accompanying key. If I wrap the key and FOB in tin foil and have sitting right on the dash the ignition will not turn on. If I put the key and FOB in a little sort of Tums or Certs tin can it will start. It's surrounded by metal as in the tin foil, but it will let the signal through.?? I then wrapped the FOB in tin foil and used the accompanying key putting it into the ignition and it started. It would not turn without the key in the ignition. So there seems to be a transponder in the key itself as well as one in the FOB. These are some clazy vehicles. And I'm still wondering if I have to go to the dealer to have the 3rd key and FOB programmed. I'm also wondering if the key in the E-Bay FOB has a transponder in it. No way to tell until the thing is programmed I guess. UGH!
Did you make sure the p/n on the new one matches the p/n (& FCC ID) on you original one?
I just bought a used fob on eBay was well and was able to program it without any trouble.
The door switch they are referring to is the little switch near the bottom of the door jamb that activates the dome light when the door is open (among other functions). So you just reach down and press and release it twice. It's really the same thing as closing and opening the door... just simpler and quicker - as there is a time limit to complete the steps.
And yes, the FOB does have a transponder in it... at least on the 2014 GT. Thats how it know when you walk up to the door and push the "request" button to unlock the door.
As for the ignition keys, I also bought two OEM key blanks complete with transponders and was able to program them as well after having the keys cut. The big box stores all use the cartridge style key cutters and weren't able to cut it. They actually got one of the original keys stuck in the cartridge and it took about 15 minutes and some brute force to get it out. I ended up taking it ACE hardware where they use the old fashion type cutters. It worked perfectly and I was able to program it very easily.
It's a good idea to keep three sets around so that if you loose one, you can make another WITHOUT going to the dealer.
Hey Scotch3, that worked really well. Have been around Fords so long that I didn't know the "door switch" was still in existence as an actual visible switch. The Fords I've had for the past number of years have not had that switch and I guess I just assumed that all manufacturers had done away with them. I'm really not sure how the Fords work, but they do work. The programming went like clock work right out of the chute. Did find that the actual key is just a valet key and has no chip. Had to go back and read the write up for it and it was sort of stated that the key didn't have the chip. I was totally unaware how these things worked at the time, but I'm learnin'. Guess I can hide the valet key under the car and then rely on the FOB for starting it if I should lose mine or my wife should lose hers. Will have to keep the FOB wrapped in foil and concealed so if someone should get in without authorization it won't start too easily for them. Will have to hide it, but not too well as to make it unfindable for me. It's no fun getting old! Thanks again for the help. Much appreciated.
Glad to hear it, Dan!
I asked the seller of the key I bought to double check that it had the transponder and he came back and said yes.
The whole key thing is pretty confusing at first. I read through he manual several times, but even that wasn't very concise. They really need a chapter called Key & FOB Basics 101.
EDIT: Well, I just learned something from your post. I was under the assumption that the FOB only worked for the door locks & security and the car would only start with the transponder in the physical key nearby. But after reading your post, I went down and was able to start the car with the FOB only (transponder key/physical key was left inside the house.) I think it still wouldn't hurt to have a 3rd transponder key (physical key) so you would have two left in the event one is lost.
Here is my backup key strategy. I plan to hide a non-transponder key in a hide-a-key device under the card. Then, keep a 3rd transponder key hidden in the car but far enough away from then ignition that the immobilizer won't read it... maybe in a metal tin hidden in the trunk or under the 3rd row seats. Then, if keys are ever lost while away from home, at least I can get into your car with the "dumb" key and then retrieve the transponder key from the super-secret hiding location and start the car and drive home. No need to call AAA, a locksmith, or even a family member for a backup key. I haven't tested all this out yet, but I think I can safely hide it towards the rear and it should be OK. The manual even suggests that the cup-holder is a "dead spot." So I think a small metal container or tin foil as you suggested would do the trick if stashed away towards the rear. Having the "dumb" key hidden outside the vehicle will also help get inside the car if the battery should every die.
I would definitely keep an eye out for a transponder key on eBay. It will save you that trip to the dealer if one of the originals is ever lost. I was only looking to buy one key. But I found a seller with two of them and he was only asking $15 each. So I bought both. I also found my used FOB from another seller and picked it up for $55; most were selling in the $100 range. A couple of bucks to have the keys cut the total cost was just under $90 for one FOB and two transponder keys.
At the very end of negotiating the purchase of the car, I asked the sales manager if he could throw in a spare key/fob set. He hemmed and hawed a little bit and explained that the parts department wouldn't give him any kind of discount on the keys... plus, it was after 5PM and they were already gone home for the day. So he said I'll give you $200 off towards the key. At the time, I had no idea how much it would cost bust was confident it would be in the hundreds. It worked out pretty well all in all. The whole purchase process was surprisingly pleasant and not the typical high pressure game playing. Most straight talking salesman (and manager) I have ever delt with. I'll have to save that story for another thread.
I asked the seller of the key I bought to double check that it had the transponder and he came back and said yes.
The whole key thing is pretty confusing at first. I read through he manual several times, but even that wasn't very concise. They really need a chapter called Key & FOB Basics 101.
EDIT: Well, I just learned something from your post. I was under the assumption that the FOB only worked for the door locks & security and the car would only start with the transponder in the physical key nearby. But after reading your post, I went down and was able to start the car with the FOB only (transponder key/physical key was left inside the house.) I think it still wouldn't hurt to have a 3rd transponder key (physical key) so you would have two left in the event one is lost.
Here is my backup key strategy. I plan to hide a non-transponder key in a hide-a-key device under the card. Then, keep a 3rd transponder key hidden in the car but far enough away from then ignition that the immobilizer won't read it... maybe in a metal tin hidden in the trunk or under the 3rd row seats. Then, if keys are ever lost while away from home, at least I can get into your car with the "dumb" key and then retrieve the transponder key from the super-secret hiding location and start the car and drive home. No need to call AAA, a locksmith, or even a family member for a backup key. I haven't tested all this out yet, but I think I can safely hide it towards the rear and it should be OK. The manual even suggests that the cup-holder is a "dead spot." So I think a small metal container or tin foil as you suggested would do the trick if stashed away towards the rear. Having the "dumb" key hidden outside the vehicle will also help get inside the car if the battery should every die.
I would definitely keep an eye out for a transponder key on eBay. It will save you that trip to the dealer if one of the originals is ever lost. I was only looking to buy one key. But I found a seller with two of them and he was only asking $15 each. So I bought both. I also found my used FOB from another seller and picked it up for $55; most were selling in the $100 range. A couple of bucks to have the keys cut the total cost was just under $90 for one FOB and two transponder keys.
At the very end of negotiating the purchase of the car, I asked the sales manager if he could throw in a spare key/fob set. He hemmed and hawed a little bit and explained that the parts department wouldn't give him any kind of discount on the keys... plus, it was after 5PM and they were already gone home for the day. So he said I'll give you $200 off towards the key. At the time, I had no idea how much it would cost bust was confident it would be in the hundreds. It worked out pretty well all in all. The whole purchase process was surprisingly pleasant and not the typical high pressure game playing. Most straight talking salesman (and manager) I have ever delt with. I'll have to save that story for another thread.
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With two programmed advanced keys
This is interesting... it looks like the section "With two programmed advanced keys", you should be able to complete this without the M-MDS. Did you happen to try this?
This is interesting... it looks like the section "With two programmed advanced keys", you should be able to complete this without the M-MDS. Did you happen to try this?
It sounds like Chance went to the dealer earlier in this thread to get it done. But to answer your question, yes, with two smart keys, you can program a third smart key. And with two aux keys (transponder equipped), you can program a third. So that's why it's a good idea to pick up a third on the cheap and program it yourself so if you ever loose one, you can always program another by yourself. If you only have 2 sets and you loose one, then HAVE to go to the dealer and pay their prices… which have been reported across the board from the $100s to over $500.
For those people who have switchblade / flip keys some basic info: The key top piece has the transponder 4D63 40 bit that you program to your cars ECU. to start the car. The bottom part i.e FOB is program separately and some are 315 mhz and other is 433 mhz. to open and lock the doors.
REMOTE PROGRAMMING
1.Get in your vehicle and leave the drivers door open.
2.Using the power lock switch on the drivers door lock and unlock the vehicle and insert a working key into the ignition.
3.Turn the key to the ON position as far as it will go without actually starting the vehicle and back to the OFF position three (3) times within ten (10) seconds, ending in the OFF position.
4.Close and reopen the driver’s door three (3) times, ending with the door open. At this point the vehicle doors should automatically lock and unlock indicating that the programming mode has been entered successfully.
5.Pick up the new remote, press, and release any button on it two (2) times. The door locks should automatically lock and unlock indicating that the remote has programmed successfully.
6.Repeat STEP 5 for all remaining remotes you wish to program.
7.Once you have programmed all of your remotes, exit the programming mode by starting the vehicle, turn it off and remove the key. Exit the vehicle and close the drivers door.
8.Test all remotes to ensure they are functioning. If any did not program, restart the programming procedure from STEP 1 and switch the order in which you are programming the remotes.
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
KEY PROGRAMMING
You must have two factory transponder keys that currently start the vehicle in order to attempt the following programming. They need to be different ID's in the cars ECU can't be a clone with the same ID.
1.Get in your vehicle, close and unlock all doors using the power unlock switch on the drivers door. Insert the first key into the ignition
2.Switch the 1st key to the ON position without starting and leave it in the ON position for three (3) seconds wait for the imoblizer icon to goes out.
3.Switch the key to the OFF position and remove the first key
4.Insert the 2nd key into the ignition and switch to the ON position without starting and leave in the ON position for three (3) seconds wait for the imobilzer icon to go out.
5.Switch the key to the OFF position and remove the second key
6.Insert the New Key into the ignition and switch to the ON position without starting for two (3) seconds wait for the imoblizer icon tto go out.
7.remove the New Key
Test the key to ensure it functions by starting the vehicle. If it did not program, restart the programming procedure from STEP 1. If it did program and you have additional keys to program, restart the programming procedure from STEP 1.
REMOTE PROGRAMMING
1.Get in your vehicle and leave the drivers door open.
2.Using the power lock switch on the drivers door lock and unlock the vehicle and insert a working key into the ignition.
3.Turn the key to the ON position as far as it will go without actually starting the vehicle and back to the OFF position three (3) times within ten (10) seconds, ending in the OFF position.
4.Close and reopen the driver’s door three (3) times, ending with the door open. At this point the vehicle doors should automatically lock and unlock indicating that the programming mode has been entered successfully.
5.Pick up the new remote, press, and release any button on it two (2) times. The door locks should automatically lock and unlock indicating that the remote has programmed successfully.
6.Repeat STEP 5 for all remaining remotes you wish to program.
7.Once you have programmed all of your remotes, exit the programming mode by starting the vehicle, turn it off and remove the key. Exit the vehicle and close the drivers door.
8.Test all remotes to ensure they are functioning. If any did not program, restart the programming procedure from STEP 1 and switch the order in which you are programming the remotes.
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
KEY PROGRAMMING
You must have two factory transponder keys that currently start the vehicle in order to attempt the following programming. They need to be different ID's in the cars ECU can't be a clone with the same ID.
1.Get in your vehicle, close and unlock all doors using the power unlock switch on the drivers door. Insert the first key into the ignition
2.Switch the 1st key to the ON position without starting and leave it in the ON position for three (3) seconds wait for the imoblizer icon to goes out.
3.Switch the key to the OFF position and remove the first key
4.Insert the 2nd key into the ignition and switch to the ON position without starting and leave in the ON position for three (3) seconds wait for the imobilzer icon to go out.
5.Switch the key to the OFF position and remove the second key
6.Insert the New Key into the ignition and switch to the ON position without starting for two (3) seconds wait for the imoblizer icon tto go out.
7.remove the New Key
Test the key to ensure it functions by starting the vehicle. If it did not program, restart the programming procedure from STEP 1. If it did program and you have additional keys to program, restart the programming procedure from STEP 1.
