ZPS Build Thread

Well I finally got my GF's civic back together and running again so it is time to get the 2 some cleaning attention that it needs. IT has been her car and the dog carrier for almost a month now. It needs some love.
 
I will try to do before and after pictures. Luckily our dog is a Husky so there isn't that much hair since she is in her summer coat, and from my experience the fabric in the 2 doesn't cling onto the hair that bad.
 
OK so I finally got somethings settled with my GF's car and some other stuff with the house. This weekend I am going to an autocross in ATL which should be fun as long as it doesn't rain. They always have good open courses. Plus the Clemson group is back in town and we will be having an event once a month. Gopro will be getting a workout looking at the new suspension and other things.

Also my Star Specs are down to the wear bars so sometime in September the RE-11A's will be ordered. I look forward to that.
 
Well yesterday I ran down in ATL. Was a nice day. I was not a fan of the course though. Just a bunch of transitions with pinch points on every turn. Kinda annoying. Also the pavement is sealed so it wasn't that grippy. The car still understeered a little for my taste so I will be looking into getting the RB rear bar. The good thing was that the car handles the bumps in the lot very well which was great. Oh and I definitely need new tires. Star specs are way past the wear bars after a year and 20K miles on them.

Here is my fastest run.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=owX-EntRujM&list=UUY9TmfdfKe73ISSdzcYXGVw

Here is a shot of the rear suspension. Pretty interesting how much the rear end moves from side to side. Definitely thinking on using window weld on the rear bushings.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NpmjXVoNBKE&list=UUY9TmfdfKe73ISSdzcYXGVw
 
I am still a little on the fence between those two. I need to check the rear to see how much rear toe in I have. The idea of getting some rear toe out of the car is nice depending on how much I have. If I can change the toe without the tri-point bar that would be preferred. I just don't like how it always puts a stress on the rear beam, to toe it out.
 
I am still a little on the fence between those two. I need to check the rear to see how much rear toe in I have. The idea of getting some rear toe out of the car is nice depending on how much I have. If I can change the toe without the tri-point bar that would be preferred. I just don't like how it always puts a stress on the rear beam, to toe it out.
I used the bar to zero out the toe. but within minutes I can add toe out if needed :).
 
Yea I just thought of basically what you just said. My car, as it sits now, handles awesome on more open turns (50mph and up) rotates no problem. It is the tight stuff which it just doesn't have quite enough rotation. I might get the tri-point bar and just leave it with 0 preload for driving around town, then when it comes to an event add in the number of turns needed to get the toe to 0. Since it is so easy to adjust that wouldn't take much, plus I could even adjust it on the fly between runs if I had to.

One end of the tripoint bar is right handed threads and the other is left correct? So you just have to spin it like like a turnbuckle to adjust it?

When I said before getting some more rear toe out, I meant to toe it out to 0, not to actually have toe out. I doupt it will need that much.
 
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Yea I just thought of basically what you just said. My car, as it sits now, handles awesome on more open turns (50mph and up) rotates no problem. It is the tight stuff which it just doesn't have quite enough rotation. I might get the tri-point bar and just leave it with 0 preload for driving around town, then when it comes to an event add in the number of turns needed to get the toe to 0. Since it is so easy to adjust that wouldn't take much, plus I could even adjust it on the fly between runs if I had to.

One end of the tripoint bar is right handed threads and the other is left correct? So you just have to spin it like like a turnbuckle to adjust it?

When I said before getting some more rear toe out, I meant to toe it out to 0, not to actually have toe out. I doupt it will need that much.

That is correct :). I adjusted my on the rack so I could watch the toe change. I am getting another alignment once I put in the front springs so I am going to make a few toe settings to make it even easier to adjust on the fly.
 
Do you have the stock exhaust? Just wondering if the tri-point hits the muffler at all when loaded.
 
That's fine I want to do the exhaust anyway to finally get some sound out of the car.
 
So my Falken RT-912's came in for the Miata wheels. They will be mounted tomorrow and put on the 2. Then The RE-11A's will be ordered for the Mazda 2 wheels. Once they are mounted I am going pull off the black plastidip, and repaint the wheels white.
 
Ok so back to some chassis development and vehicle dynamics talk. So I really think that the tri-point bar is the way to go with these cars. Here is my thoughts for it.

I used to have star specs on the car and it still doesn't rotate quite as much as I would like. I was thinking that it was the rear toe that could be keeping the car so "stable". My rear end is pretty stuff, but I think it just isn't enough to overcome the toe. So I now have my 14" Miata wheels on the car with 185/60/14 Falken RT-912's which I really like. Well the car rotates a lot better with these compare to the star specs. I think that it is because of the higher slip angle these tires work at which will make it seam like I have less toe in in the rear compared to the star specs.

Now for details. For people who are not aware tires run at a slip angle which is the difference between where the wheel is pointed and where the tire actually goes. So just for conversation sake lets say that the star specs run best at about 3 degrees where the falkens run at about 5. Not lets assume a right turn and the inside rear tire is up in the air so in the rear so all you have is the outside rear tire. So if you have 1 degree of toe in on that tire with the star specs having 3 degrees of slip, that means that the actual tire tread is going 2 degrees toe out, where with the falkens would be running with 4 degrees of toe out. So it would be just about the same as the star specs if you aligned the car to have 1 degree of toe out.

So basically I am thinking that this extra slip angle is giving me an idea as to how the car would handle if I get some of that toe in in the rear taken out and I like it. Really looking forward to getting the tri-point bar, but it is going to be about the end of october before I can get it. I will stop blabbing on now.
 
Well I got the 195 RE-11A's in and they are WIDE. Take a look compared to my star specs of the same size. Granted the star specs were mounted on my 6" wheels where the RE-11's were not mounted. I measured what the rim width would be with how they are not mounted and they were 6.75"

1186032_10101042347060058_346376100_n.jpg


Oh and 4 coats of plastidip on the wheels with how thick I made each coat was not thick enough for the wheels. It doesn't really just peel off. Luckily my fiancee mentioned that brake cleaner works really well for taking if off so that will be the plan for the parts I can't peel off.
 
Drastic difference in width! Also, interesting notes on the slip angle relationship with toe. I'll be curious what you find when you can change the rear toe...
 
I plan on doing to work with the bar at RA over the next week to work on the way the 2 handles to see about getting more speed out of it. I will post up what I find.

-Derrick
 
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