Sooooo much better
What is the offset of the oem wheels to start with? I wonder what it is equal to now with those spacers.
I'm going for TR C1M 15x7" 30 offset my self, they are only 94$ each + 205/50R15 tires.
ZPS Build Thread
- Thread starter zps2004
- Start date
Sooooo much better
What is the offset of the oem wheels to start with? I wonder what it is equal to now with those spacers.
I'm going for TR C1M 15x7" 30 offset my self, they are only 94$ each + 205/50R15 tires.
It is equal to a +15 offset. Basically a number of people on here showed how you can fit a 15X7 with a +25 offset with no issues. The factory wheels are 15X6 and +40. So those aftermarket wheels have 15mm more offset, plus they are half an inch wider on the outside because of the wheel width. That is 15+12.7=27.7mm difference. I just went with a 25mm spacer since I know I am using one of the good autocross tires for DD which are usually a little bit wider than most.
- :
- 2014 Mazda3 GS + 2013 CX-5 Touring.
Sooooo much better
What is the offset of the oem wheels to start with? I wonder what it is equal to now with those spacers.
I'm going for TR C1M 15x7" 30 offset my self, they are only 94$ each + 205/50R15 tires.
Bon choix
Je peux prendre des photos si tu veux... Jai une 2 grise avec des C1M noir "satin"
Bon choix
Je peux prendre des photos si tu veux... Jai une 2 grise avec des C1M noir "satin"
Oui si tu peux, je vais acheter mes C1M l an prochain.
Je viens de commander ces pneus la http://www.1010tires.com/Tires/Falken/AZENIS+RT-615K/28233572
I just ordered these tires http://www.1010tires.com/Tires/Falken/AZENIS+RT-615K/28233572
Wheels will come next year
CRG Racer24
Member
- :
- '11 Mazda2 GX-Convenience Pkg.. Warranty Voiding Mods
Looks a lot better with the spacers.. nice work!
sorry highjacking thread a bit.... the spacers you put on... will it help during auto-x? and is it a good idea to put on some extended studs like APR? Just wondering cause the car looks sick like that but wanted to know how safe and effective it would be during "abuse".
It should help to reduce weight transfer since the track width for the front and the rear are 2" wider now. That is all good stuff. I won't be autocrossing on them until July, but I will be taking a trip to the mountains soon probably to beat on them and see how the car with the coils is now.
Technically I got wheel adaptors now spacers. They bolt to the wheel, then you bolt your wheels to them. It is a much better way to do it with how thick mine were. I think I put up a picture of that a bit back.
Here is the picture. It shows how the adapter is bolted to the hub, then the wheel bolts to the adapter.
Technically I got wheel adaptors now spacers. They bolt to the wheel, then you bolt your wheels to them. It is a much better way to do it with how thick mine were. I think I put up a picture of that a bit back.
Here is the picture. It shows how the adapter is bolted to the hub, then the wheel bolts to the adapter.
shortfuse12
Member
which one did u buy? would the miata one fit?
So this weekend I took a number of measurements on the 2 to check how the ride height of my car is for both performance and comfort. There are a number of things which I need to change. I have a spreadsheet with all of the data attached. Not my best spreadsheet, but it is the best I can do with very little sleep.
So right now my car sits at 23" from the ground to the top of the front fender and 23.75" for the rear. By the pinch weld the rear is 0.25" higher.
Now for the downside. For the front the height of the inboard mounts for the LCA are 1" below the outer mounting point with the hub, so not really good for suspension geometry. Then again I scrape the front a lot so raising it is not that bad if an idea. The rear, at that ride height sits, compressing the bump stop by half an inch. Again even though the bump stops are soft not the best.
So to make all of this happy, I am going to raise the front .75" to help with the geometry and with the scraping. For the rear I am going to raise it 0.25" to keep the rear slightly higher and the pinch weld height the same. I am also going to cut 1/25" off the bump stop. I should still rest on it it under hard cornering, but just riding down the road I should not so it should ride better. I will let everyone know how it all helps.
View attachment suspension.xls
So right now my car sits at 23" from the ground to the top of the front fender and 23.75" for the rear. By the pinch weld the rear is 0.25" higher.
Now for the downside. For the front the height of the inboard mounts for the LCA are 1" below the outer mounting point with the hub, so not really good for suspension geometry. Then again I scrape the front a lot so raising it is not that bad if an idea. The rear, at that ride height sits, compressing the bump stop by half an inch. Again even though the bump stops are soft not the best.
So to make all of this happy, I am going to raise the front .75" to help with the geometry and with the scraping. For the rear I am going to raise it 0.25" to keep the rear slightly higher and the pinch weld height the same. I am also going to cut 1/25" off the bump stop. I should still rest on it it under hard cornering, but just riding down the road I should not so it should ride better. I will let everyone know how it all helps.
View attachment suspension.xls
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