iracemine's purpose built N/A ST2 thread

Well here is my second passion. I learned a lot about RVs and my self with this rig. In 2010 I had been with my gf for about 5 years and been AutoXing for 8 years. And I was bored with racing time and not other cars. So I was committed as **** to switching to w2w, but had no money at all as I work (and still do) a retail job. So I sold my open trailer to get a bit more comfort when camping at the track. I did this is because my race club only offered around 4-6 races for autoxes (no big), but for w2w they offered 12-14 races a year. And not to mention I hate bugs. Hate hate bugs. And yes I wanted my gf to be happy at the track too as I raced. So with getting my car and my safety gear up to w2w code I had a pretty tough debt. So I found a guy not localy sold a trailer a local guy was selling for thousands of dollars less. eBay. Thank god. This guy also did not mark up all the accessories like every place I went to. SO I maxed my CC on everything I could. Upgraded front the biased tires to the actual trailer radials at 15 (not $50) a tire including the upgraded in-floor spare. Finished walls and floor (but not ceiling cause I thought it would help me finish wiring up the rest and save me money (HUGE MISTAKE)). Jump door. Diamond plated ramp door. Front lower only cabinets. A huge one is the built in matching locks. ANd the best one is the RV door. Holy cow is that the best! Easy small door to get in and out WITH a screen door built in.

And after that it was the "I can save money by doing it myself mistake(s)". If it was one or two things yeah maybe it makes sense. But since the first weekend I bought it all I have done is mod this rig. Mod after mod after mod... after mod. I know now (yeas hind site is perfect 20/20) that if I just found a way to get a loan or someway to buy my self a 5th wheel toy hauler/race rig I would have spent way more time on the car and less time/money with the rig. But maybe it was a lesson I needed to learn. So I will try to list the mods I put in after I bought the trailer with the pics.



So this pic shows my latest mod. The awning and outlet (cant see in this pic). Again life story... I drove 9 hours to save $5oo bucks buying the awning, but having to buy locally the dumb ass white arms you see in this pic instead of the black arms that I ordered in the first place. They are short arms (I said on the phone 3 ******* times when I ordered black) but when I showed up to pick the kit it was all in giant tubes ready to strap to the top of my daily P5. Oh that right I drove 5 hours through Chicago rush hour traffic with a 12' tube a top my P5. But man I wish again this thing came with it. Cause since I had this awning I cant imagine being with out it. 02' head lights on the 99'. Nice upgrade as the stocks were milky white and dim as ****. The topper was a massive necessity. Not only did it clear out my cabinets in the trailer, but I bought a extended height one so I can put a chemical toilet in there and stand up and put my pants on and off when use it. (hey, what can I say. The race tracks are always so dark at night and eating track food and drinking heavily leads to mid night emergencys) Also you can see the A/C unit that makes my gf less likely to start fights with me cause shes hot and uncomfortably. NOT CHEAP.
attachment.php


Here is inside the topper. I bought the topper with interior led lights for obvious reasons. However the light had a 3 position switch! SO I bought some magnetic switches and had the lights turn on when ever I opened the side doors or the rear door. Its pretty useful. And yeah thats the only Honda I own. The yep u guessed... 2nd generator I owned. For the love of god DO NOT pay attention to how many watts a generator makes, pay attention to how many AMPs a generator makes. My first one was a $3oo piece of s*** that could not run the A/C nor run any quieter that a ******* space ship taking off. And yes my cem toilet, two gas tanks for the race car, smokey joe grill, charcoal, cooler, bike rack, another recent purchase and way way too late is the 24" industrial fan! With the dog and all the damn bugs it makes his life and ours (especially grilling) way better. Dog bowel holder since he is as tall as my car.
attachment.php


Here you can see I had some what hard wired the gen 30Amp Marine receptacle to the back of the topper along with a 15Amp outlet too. This is great cause if I microwave at the same time the A/C was on I would blow what ever the race track would try to provide us. Also in pic but cant see is the very new back up camera.
attachment.php


Another 15Amp receptacle. Needed if I am plugged into shore power and not having the gen running. Along with the white awning arm. Note the propane tank cover to cover propane tanks.
attachment.php


Here is the first interior shot. I just moved that propane heater (yup you guessed it... the second heater) to that side because it was below the key chain rack and I was worried I would melt the key fobs at night and every time it was windy and someone would open the door it would blow out. AWESOME mod is to cover the jump door with a screen so you can have that huge wide door open but no bugs could get in. I have that screen attached with velcro so I could roll it up and still use the jump door. Yes a must is a 12V ceiling fan, really moved the heat down from the ceiling at night. I insulated the ceiling and ceiling corners when I put in the A/C. Doing that meant it made the trailer cold inside not just swirling hot and cold air around when the A/C was running. Flimsy towel rack, cant even hold the weight of my drivers suit (again will buy twice. Not really saving any money when I do that). 1X1s holding the jack and jack stands in place. Velcro to hold the remotes in place (by my head at night). ahh yes very cheap (finally) used window I cut into the side of the trailer. Really got rid of that claustrophobia feeling, and vertigo I would get from the floor. A broom. Them sticky tires would bring in a ton of rocks. Not so nice to sleep on.
attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • 100_2002.JPG
    100_2002.JPG
    154.7 KB · Views: 467
  • 100_2003.JPG
    100_2003.JPG
    92.8 KB · Views: 466
  • 100_2004.JPG
    100_2004.JPG
    72.7 KB · Views: 464
  • 100_2005.JPG
    100_2005.JPG
    103.4 KB · Views: 471
  • 100_2007.JPG
    100_2007.JPG
    78.2 KB · Views: 745
Last edited:
Cont/

This pic is off the other side. And what do you think? Yes the second TV. First one fell off the ******* wall and ripped the coax plug out the back of it. So this time I made that box (so you can see it at night sleeping on the floor) and tethered it to the wall with non other that bicycle cables. 3 sets of RV cables and one marine cable so I can go from the water proof 30Amp outlet on the trailer to the back of the trucks 30Amp water proof outlet with no adapters. (at least I got great deals on those cords as 30Amp cords are super expensive. Chairs that... yes I will have to replace because I left spices in the spice rack and had mice in the trailer and for what ever ******* reason they scaled the wall and chewed up my chairs. So I will be replacing them for next season.Folding alum table. Jump battery in a battery box that is screwed to the floor. At the top is a neat sheet of aluminum. That is a neat way to attach switches but more importantly its a heat sink for the dimmer switch. That panel works the TV/ceiling fan, patio lights (oh, yeah... patio lights a must for grilling past dusk), and the dimmer switch for the vent fan. Also, vent fan.
attachment.php


Like I said b4 the lower cabinets where installed by united. but I put in the tie down to hold the tool box that is stuffed with my second set of tools that stays the **** in there. I actually blew my back out twice moving that tool box and tools from the garage to the back of the truck. That tool bx is an extra and all the tools are Harbor Freight's finest. Two 15Amp outlets that run from shore power or from a modified wave inverter/charger (modified wave is cheaper but I highly DO NOT recommend it). I have them wired in with marine grade Romex wire. This is a flexible stranded copper wire, not the solid wire you would find in your home. I did this on account of vibration. After a time the solid wire will break. Also use one size gauge wire up than you need. That way you do not loose any power due to the wire, and you can add stuff in the future with out any problems. It also helps the batteries last long when "dry camping". Cheap "AA" led under cabinet lighting made my life a lot easier when I got up at night. I think NEO solutions upper cabinet. Cheap WAY cheaper than anyone else I found and VERY nice construction. Spice rack. And I made that other side to hold the microwave and yet again the second fridge. I bought a heat pump ac/dc fridge, and it never shut off nor got my food cold. SO bought this guy and now the thing makes ice when the trailer is in the sun, or I have the heater on.
attachment.php


Unfinished work. Like I said I just put in that outlet and just need to cover that up and protect the wires. And a shelf I put in there. I should have said that I needed shelfs when I ordered the trailer , but I did not know that it did not come with them.
attachment.php


This is pretty messy but I dont care. Its hard as **** to get in there, and no one sees it. Two yes two house batteries. My first one was this huge boat battery and that thing almost made it though the night. and after a few years it died. (I would bring it in for the winter) So anyone who is anyone that "dry camped" uses 6V golf cart batteries. WOW, no way would I think that they could last like they do! **** the night, I can go all weekend now with way more to spare. I by acident used the microwave off them fuckers with no problems. And that is no little microwave. now the older I get the (I think) smarter I get so I did not go the cheap way and bought top of the line Trojan purple batteries and I am glad I did. That white thing on the wall is the inverter/charger that I got a smoking deal on, but wish I got a real sine wave inverter/charger. That is because it makes everything have a hum, and it can possibly damage electronics (nothing yet).
attachment.php


Now I have been having fun (not really) with the truck too. Bought a Double din Pioneer that has the hook ups in the back not the front (which is dumb as **** if you ask me) So I have a hardwired sirius radio that looks very clean, but can also take it out and put into my daily P5. Back up camera a must when hooking up the trailer and time is a factor (normally is in a busy race weekend). It helps too when I don not have the trailer hooked up and I cant really see to well behind that big topper. Navigator steering wheel. USB hook up peeking out the phone shelf. False radio face to hide the Pioneer while the truck is in storage. About 198K on the clock.
attachment.php


I am filled with pointless information, so by all means ask away if you need any recommendations or how to do it the wrong way.
 

Attachments

  • 100_2008.JPG
    100_2008.JPG
    90.5 KB · Views: 462
  • 100_2009.JPG
    100_2009.JPG
    94 KB · Views: 465
  • 100_2011.JPG
    100_2011.JPG
    52.1 KB · Views: 465
  • 100_2012.JPG
    100_2012.JPG
    62.9 KB · Views: 457
  • 100_2013.JPG
    100_2013.JPG
    79.3 KB · Views: 449
Dont forget the winch. I have a very nice one I mounted inside the lower cabinets. I just open the door and I can use it. I have had to too many times so far. bolted it to frame and a the floor with extra hardwood under the normal sub-floor.
 
got to the track after dark on saturday to set up camp and settle in. The rig worked perfectly, the car not so much.

In the morning I tried to start it cold (low 50s) without the starter battery attached and would not fire up. So as I gave up on the first try it backfired and cracked the 505 intake manifold. Since it was already 2nd call for practice I just kept a eye on the air/fuel and went out. Car was super strong with the cold air, but the brakes just could not stay cold.

After practice I tossed on some good ole duck tape and stopped the vacuum leak. Also found that the new 2.5" brake duct hose cut the cv boot. Qualified 5th out of 28 in small prod. Pretty good for not having brakes. but still not moving down in time. 1:24:7.

So I started in the back of the grid again and worked my way up around the only other guy in my class that was also having problems for the win. Video to come later. and pics of the before and after fixing the 505.

If I cant find actual racing brakes for this car I am calling it. will try to sell as a turn key race car.
 
I think this is a good question since the Mazdaspeed 6 calipers fit the Mazdaspeed Protege are there any race caliper kit for the Mazdaspeed 6?

Sent from my HTC Desire 626s using Tapatalk
 
As stated, Evo 8/9 Brembos fit with minimal work, which means that Evo race brake upgrades also fit. IIRC there are SBKs for Evos that allow them to run 15/16" wheels for drag setups.

I'd definitely go the Evo route over the MS6 route. You have far more options.
 
I started looking into FC RX7 front brakes last night (4 piston, fits on 16"). Still can't quite tell if they fit on a protege.

rx7calipers3rdgen.jpg
 
Last edited:
saving some info here.

stock rotor is 11.5
msp rotor is 14.1
racingbrake rotornhat is 19.5
wilwood rotornhat 13.9

msp bracket 4.1
wilwood?????

stock caliper is 6.5
msp caliper is 6.5
evo 8 caliper is 9
wilwood 6piston caliper 5

rota slipstream 15X7 is 12.9
rota slipstream 17X7.5 is 19
rota grid 17X7.5 18
ssr c 15.6

hoosier R7 225 50 15 is 20lbs 23.8" overall diameter
hoosier R7 225 40 17 is 20lbs 23.8 overall diameter

toyoRR 225 50 15 is 22 lbs 24.6 overall diameter
bfgoodrich 225 50 15 20 23.6
 
Last edited:
Here are the before pictures of the 505boom. Going to have them repair the split and also try and cut off the egr chunk as much as possible.

And looking at how much oil is really in there... I think I will actually not run the PCV anymore.

attachment.php

attachment.php

attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • 100_2014.JPG
    100_2014.JPG
    149.6 KB · Views: 428
  • 100_2016.JPG
    100_2016.JPG
    88 KB · Views: 418
  • 100_2017.JPG
    100_2017.JPG
    164 KB · Views: 427
That seems like a strange place to crack. I mean, it's along a weld and all, but that should be a pretty low-stressed area. From the plug I assume you're not using the stock EGR valve, but I could maybe see if that were setup how it could stress that area.
 
This is why you always keep your tuning laptop in the passenger seat. And never tell it to Shut Up.

xhghjtvbfdtkf2n3oqfv.jpg
 
my internet service sucks.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/ytx5hDTFLqM" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
Back