Okay I'm getting my AccessPort in a few days. Is it okay to have mixed parts for a map? I have a Cobb CAI but a CorkSport TIP. It says under the Cobb CAI map "upgrade". It doesn't specify which brand or anything. Is that okay to run or no? I also want to know if I can run stage 1 or should I just do Safe Mode until I get HPFP internals?
Cobb AP Questions. Please help!!
- Thread starter iSeth
- Start date
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- 2003.5 MSP
your ok with running mixed parts, when you pick what brand you have pick your intake manufacturer. you can run the stage one with upgrade because well you upgraded it, Cobb says there stage one maps are "SAFE" to run with in the limits of your HPFP. that being said you should monitor you fuel pressure at all times, some stockers are fine and some are not, if you dont have any other way to monitor fuel pressure you can with you Cobb AP, your gonna wanna see fuel pressure under WOT in the neighborhood of 1600 (or higher) if you have a healthy pump, if it drops drastically than go back to safe mode and get an upgraded hpfp. as a rule of thumb i always recommend getting an upgraded hpfp not matter what stage of mods your in, peace of mind and a better performing car is what youll get.....worth every penny IMHO.
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Thank you so much for replying, I've been waiting for someone to reply. Ill run stage 1 and monitor it for a bit to see how it goes.. Soon as I get the money to get AutoTech Internals ill get them. I just hope I don't mess it up by doing it myself :/ I'm not exactly the best in mechanics. Lol I would like to be at the 330whp range soon without upgrading my turbo. Im still in school and paying on this car so that would take forever to save for.
You will not get to 330 on the stock turbo. It turns into a flamethrower if you try to push that much air through the compressor side. Maybe 280-290 on OTS maps fully bolted, 300 on a dangerous self custom tune. 310-320 on a good professional tune. You would realize that if you read those threads that seem too much trouble for you.
Only way to hit 330 on the KO4 is with E85 fuel and custom tuning. Then you get into other issues, like the black death for your fuel pump.
I'm not tooling with you in suggesting that you need to go slow and do your homework - read, then ask questions.
It looks like you want to start running a stage 1 tune on the stock pump but don't yet know how or what to monitor.
I would humbly suggest that if you really want to do that maybe go over to the mazdaspeed forum board and get serious about the preliminary steps of data logging, MAF calibration and basic tuning before you get way over your head and blow an engine. They know what they are doing with AP and you don't and seem not to want to learn.
Sorry for sounding blunt. Engines are easy to blow with stupid tuning mistakes, OTS AP maps are bad and rebuilds after zoom zoom boom are expensive.
Only way to hit 330 on the KO4 is with E85 fuel and custom tuning. Then you get into other issues, like the black death for your fuel pump.
I'm not tooling with you in suggesting that you need to go slow and do your homework - read, then ask questions.
It looks like you want to start running a stage 1 tune on the stock pump but don't yet know how or what to monitor.
I would humbly suggest that if you really want to do that maybe go over to the mazdaspeed forum board and get serious about the preliminary steps of data logging, MAF calibration and basic tuning before you get way over your head and blow an engine. They know what they are doing with AP and you don't and seem not to want to learn.
Sorry for sounding blunt. Engines are easy to blow with stupid tuning mistakes, OTS AP maps are bad and rebuilds after zoom zoom boom are expensive.
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- 2003.5 MSP
its really worth taking the time and learning how to use the Cobb AP. when i got mine i did tons of reading and asked questions, the above mentioned forum as well as the Cobb forum is a great place to get info. i ended up working with a pro tuner to fine tune a custom map for my car with my mods, it is a tedious process but it also allows you to learn whats going on with your car and how it should perform. ive looked at tons of data logs throughout the process and find it to be a very humbling but worth it. the guy who tuned my car was great, very patient and very helpful, put together an awesome map for my car. doing things the right way is the only way.
Ive been doing my research for the last few days.. There also isn't any shops that close to me that tune Cobb. Where I was reading, they said that OTS Maps were fine. I don't have a huge budget either. It seems like I'd have to drive hours away to get a tune then. I also just ordered my AutoTech HPFP internals and installing them before I even look into putting a stage 1 on my car. If I stay above 1700 on the fp then I'll go ahead and put a stage 1 on. Then off to get a DP and RP. And if OTS maps were so bad why would they realese them? I've seen at least 5 guys on this forum with Cobb stage 2. Sorry if I sound like an idiot, it's just I'm only 17 and don't much about cars except for what I read.
MSMS3 I have been reading alot as well. I understand the HPFP internals and AP a little. the OTS Stage 1 is bad? is that correct? I am confused. I thought from what I read was that the stage 1 was pretty mild and not bad for the longevity of the motor.
please point me in the right direction as well.
please point me in the right direction as well.
chief_wiggum
Member
- :
- 2008.5 Mazdaspeed3-2010 Mazda5 GT
you don't need someone local, a lot of people e-tune; you take a few logs, send them electronically to an experienced & reputable tuner, they send you back a modified tune based on your logs. the process takes a little longer, but you're still getting a custom tune which in my mind is better/safer than the OTS ones.
TheStuartKid
Member
- :
- 2008 mazdaspeed3
HPFP is definitely critical, i was being told two different things when i was in your situation and i just decided to try it out without the internals and it was terrible, i would see my pressure dropping as low as 1000 sometimes and a few times i felt like i hit a brick wall when my fiuel cut completely. Its definitely worth the 350 bucks. Now my Fuel pressure goes nowhere under 1750 and im running the stage 2 maps right now. its great not having to look at my dashhawk the whole time im driving.
How reliable is getting upgraded internals VS going with a company that guarantees their completely upgraded units for life? I'm only curious because I do not have tons of money now, which is my the mods on my Speed3 are just a CPE intake. I It is my daily driver and eventually, want to run simple bolt ons and leave it there. FMIC, DP, cat-back, fuel pump and tune. Besides the benefits of saving LOTS of money by doing just internals, what is the likelihood of mistakes or things being done incorrectly?
^ It depends on your experience and skill level on doing the internals upgrade. I recommend Autotech internals, if you chose to DIY. They are time tested and ber reliable. Check the "how to's" on numerous web sites to decide if your skill level is sufficient. It is actually more difficult to R & R the pump ( and that ain't that tough) than swapping out the internals once the pump is removed. The important thing then will be cleanliness and proper lubrication.
No need to pm for this short answer. The catless dp/rp with the CAI make you "stage 2". But you should not be running stage 2 AP maps until you upgrade your fuel pump internals.
I had to upgrade the pump to run Hypertech with my catless dp/rp. I think any tuning that raises boost or load limits above stock levels is going to be unsafe without a pump internals upgrade. The stock pump is that marginal.
I had to upgrade the pump to run Hypertech with my catless dp/rp. I think any tuning that raises boost or load limits above stock levels is going to be unsafe without a pump internals upgrade. The stock pump is that marginal.
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Okay so here's the thing. I am clearly a riri because my boyfriend bought my a cobb ap for Christmas and said tune your car! So I did but I apparently erased the tune that was originally on it because I didn't know what I was doing, or that it was tuned Which I found out by the way my car sounds, was not a stock tune. Idk what stage it was on before it, and idk if my fuel pump was upgraded. All these mods were on the car before I bought it. And the original owner is a mystery to me. With the known HPS CAI And my mechanic saying I have a welded on catless down pipe, what are the chances that my fuel pump is upgraded? And how could I tell? My Tmic is stock if that helps. And idk if
I have a tih
I appreciate all the responses prior and future
I have a tih
I appreciate all the responses prior and future
Well, if your car had a tune on it before from a different accessport, it doesn't matter. They should've given the car to you with the AP.
My guess is, it was on the stock tune. Best thing you can do is do a few datalogs. What you'll have to do is download the latest stage 1 maps from Cobb. Then, put a stage 1 map on the car. Then, with the AP plugged into the car while running, choose the following parameters to datalog:
rpm, actual fuel pressure, MAF g/s flow, MAF voltage, air/fuel ratio, spark advance, knock (kr), speed, Boost Air Temps, intake temps.
Run a couple logs in 3rd gear starting from 3000 rpm to redline, basically get to 3000rpm, start the log, then floor it and hold it to redline, then stop the log. Repeat.
My guess is, it was on the stock tune. Best thing you can do is do a few datalogs. What you'll have to do is download the latest stage 1 maps from Cobb. Then, put a stage 1 map on the car. Then, with the AP plugged into the car while running, choose the following parameters to datalog:
rpm, actual fuel pressure, MAF g/s flow, MAF voltage, air/fuel ratio, spark advance, knock (kr), speed, Boost Air Temps, intake temps.
Run a couple logs in 3rd gear starting from 3000 rpm to redline, basically get to 3000rpm, start the log, then floor it and hold it to redline, then stop the log. Repeat.
