Request: AWR (or other) dogbone mount

eyeballs

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2012 Mazda 2 Touring SG 5MT
I noticed a few of you have done this and am curious on how the install went and how significantly NVH has increased with the 70 durometer urethane.
 
If you have access to a shop, it literally takes 10 mins. If not, you jack the car up, put it on stands on the front end, then put your floor jack under the oil pan/engine just so it makes contact, not that it's pushing on it preferably with something on the jack to distribute load on your engine/oil pan. Unbolt the stock mount, pop in the new mount making sure the 2 bolts are lined up. Tighten them up good and tight and you're golden. I'm assuming that's what you would do since I did mine at the shop.

If anyone knows if they're any torque specs on the bolts, please chime in.

But I have the 95a mount, and I'm used to HEAVILY modded and VERY noisey/stiff/harsh cars. There is a lot of vibration with that mount, but I'm completely fine with it. Not many people would be okay with the amount of NVH the 95a one has, but I'm hardcore when it comes to cars anyway.
 
Try filling the hollow parts of your lower mount with 3M window weld. Great results and very little vibration. Not sure how it compares to the AWR mount but it's much better than stock.
 
Yea, I just might try that. I saw the write-up on here about it. I've got a well modded forester that has a tranny mount filled with that stuff (didn't fill it myself though), its super solid. Do most hardware stores carry it?
 
I'm not sure, I got mine at Advance Auto Parts. It was around $20, which is kinda high but it beats having to buy a new mount.
 
So after more than 2 years I finally got around to doing this. The bolt sleeve on the tranny side of the mount was too long on the awr mount I received, and no amount of wacking with the deadbolt mallet would pursuade it go in (instead it just dug into the mount housing on the tranny). I used a file to remove some material from the bolt sleeve (a socket and mallet work good for removing the sleeve) as well as chamfer the edges. I then went in without too much trouble. I will also say it is difficult to pull the motor up into position and slide the bolt in on the subframe side without a helper. I did it, but having an extra hand would've made that part a peice of cake.
 
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