Ice's N/A Build

Suffered some bad luck recently.

First was the starter motor, replaced with a Denso 1.4kw 626 Starter, works much better (sort of more later). Stock Left vs Denso Right:
T99mbcTl.jpg

15HzSw8l.jpg


Then a Indian gentlemen whom didn't speak a word of english t-boned me:
bdwZXvml.jpg

m4DkVvDl.jpg

SUq0dPol.jpg


Car was working perfectly at this point, no cv whine, no starting issues. Perfect. Got it back from the smash repairs and the plugs were ****ed. (Fouled to the point it wouldn't start). The exhaust ports had turned to sludge from the amount of fuel that had been injected and not ignited. Cat was full of fuel, after a week of not running it still smelt of fuel.

After I got the car back I noticed that the cables that go into the ECU were starting to get bent from people stepping on them. As such with the help of a friend relocated the ECU and attempted to solder the knock sensor and crank into the ECU in an attempt to get the Air Con, idle air control valve (its winter here so it's taking a while for the engine to warm up sufficiently that it will idle itself) and tacho working.

In short the crank and cam didn't work, so they've since been removed again temporarily. And the USB port in the ECU was broken off at some point. I can't praise Adaptronic enough in that I express posted the ECU on wednesday and got it back the following Monday. In that time they replaced the ECU port and then sent it back express post. Thoroughly helpful. They even sent it expressed post back to me :)

At this point the engine stopped running. Leaving me and a few friends stranded in fasta pasta car park. Fun, not.

Since then I've had new tyres put on the rims, have had to raise it by 25mm rear and 15mm front. Mat also flared and rolled my rear guards a heap. Did a epic job too IMO :D

To get it all to fit having to run 4 degrees camber in the front and 3 in the rear. (Would like to dial this back to 3 per corner tbh). Hopefully that plus dialling in a lot more dampening will prevent scrubbage:
cTRKLm4l.jpg

HsFSLlDl.jpg

U6hJ9Drl.jpg


Front:
biciP4Rl.jpg

LkDu1pIl.jpg

(Above shots pre camber)

Im going to need to get some new rims though, running too much camber for my liking to get them to fit really. Ill use them till the tyres wears out while I work out what I want to do.

Problems/Things left to do to get it running:
- Engine doesn't turn over. Before it went on jack stands it worked flawlessly so unsure what the issue is here. Relay seems to be working fine and battery has plenty of charge (its been on charge).

- Work out wtf it wasn't running in the first place. Could be solder join related potentially. Anyone know if the stock ECU needs to be earthed? (i.e. does the stock brackets earth the case and thus the ecu?)

- Bolt everything up tight suspension wise and double check all suspension is the same height.

- Swap back to 2.5" exhaust or rotate the stock mid pipe 180 degrees as the shifter linkage is currently hitting it. (Swapped to stock exhaust as originally thought the cat in my 2.5" was shagged).

Parts list I have for the car to install:
- Autoexe/Mazdaspeed Rear Wing
- Ford Laser Ajustable Wipers
- New Front Left Guard (Premium Beige Coloured :p)
- Swap blacked out lens into new HID headlamp.
- Install Mazdaspeed Familia front sway bar
- Toyota Coil On Plug Conversion.
- Autoexe Rear Sway Bar
 
Work have one rule at work, don't **** up. That's it.

Usually its not an issue but s*** it pisses me off. I had just gone to get dinner from a nice take away join down the road after a s*** day at work, it was cold by the time I got home, I was freezing, I got sick, had to wait 45 mins for his son to come so I could sort it all out. Then there was complications with insurance cause they couldn't verify what happened cause he doesn't speak a word of english. All because he drove straight through a give way sign.

This resulted in no car for me, after that. When I really needed one due to working 11-14hr days. I apologise if it offends you, I fail at how its coming across as racist or whatever. I'm simply stating facts, its not his race but the fact that he doesn't speak a word of english. Don't care if its broken english but at least he would have been able to communicate enough that he could have written down/told me his phone number and name ffs. If he lives here, he needs to be able to communicate, no matter how broken.

But whenever I go somewhere I sure as **** make sure I know how to say hello, thank you, I'm sorry I don't speak x and excuse me (and I'm not even living there). If that makes me racist or ignorant *shrug*.
 
Last edited:
Update:
- Engine now turns over.
- Broken wiring for trigger two meant that only cylinders 1 and 4 were firing.

Build has suffered scope creep. Moving to a complete standalone installation, harness has been removed from the car. Will be checking all the solder joins tonight for broken wiring.

Then will proceed to wire everything up so that I can get idle control working, air con and power steering idle up and lastly get COPs going in direct fire.

Will also need to clean plugs again as well...
 
Sorry about the wreck, race seems a little unnecessary though don't ya think? It is the 21st century...
He said gentleman. WTF? Would ignorant asshole been better? I think so because it more accurately describes some innattentive lame ass driver ruining his day and ruining his car. Your hypersensitive post about how OP described what happened was much more unnecessary.

OP, sorry for your ride being the victim of someone else's stupidity.
 
Last edited:
the 505zoom intake worked. But if you are looking to go north of 7K you would still need ITB's I think. But since this motor is undersquare I would recommend against it. You would need to do a ton of stuff to the geometry of the bottom end first, and then you could spin it way up. I believe installsheild 2 is doing this, or gave up and just having kids now. but if your looking to clean up the air/fuel/map this was way cheaper and quicker, got use the stock idle air control and blah blah blah easy.
 
Last edited:
the 505zoom intake worked. But if you are looking to go north of 7K you would still need ITB's I think. But since this motor is undersquare I would recommend against it. You would need to do a ton of stuff to the geometry of the bottom end first, and then you could spin it way up. I believe installsheild 2 is doing this, or gave up and just having kids now. but if your looking to clean up the air/fuel/map this was way cheaper and quicker, got use the stock idle air control and blah blah blah easy.

I used longer rods, there 138mm. Longest rods that will fit off the shelf without a lot of work.

Increased my rod ratio from 1.47 to 1.5. Currently its moot as I peak at about 6500-6700rpm. The engine can safely handle about 7500-7700 (If I push it). Its current soft rev limit is 7600 and hard limit 7800.

I don't really want to push it that much higher, my next upload to the ECU changes a few things including rev line. Need to shift the power band up by about 500rpm, ITBs should help remove any restriction the stock intake is providing, allowing me to make the most out of the cams.

Contemplating a swap to a 6 speed smaller ratio box but shall see.
 
Holding little or no practical relevance.

Basically saying that being able to rev to 7500-7600 comfortably is wasted :)

So this happened the other night at the Drags:
9c7VTl2l.jpg

2bx6xRql.jpg


Was an expensive night, towing + entry. Brand new shaft, which sucks cause its new, but thankfully warranty covered the replacement :)
 
Last edited:
oh yeah I knew what it meant I just didn't understand in what context but now that I read your post I understand that
 
Back