Remote Starter Install DIY

Just so you are aware, I will try NOT to make this a wire by wire install manual since the wire colors are different from year to year and even posting the wire codes will cause people grief. Additionally, the alarm color codes differ from manufacturers as well. I will accept no liability for damage to anything in anyones car from this. If you dont know what you are doing, you should NOT attempt this. I can answer some questions here but I am no expert alarm installer, if you get stuck and need major help, please seek out a local installer to finish it off. At that point there wont be major work to be done and it wont cost much to finish it up. Its better to swallow your pride than mess things up in my opinion. Still with me? Lets go!


Step 1: Get yourself ready to work by planning the install and getting everything you need together. Nothing sucks more than running out to the store to get what you need while the car is apart and the clock is ticking. Except maybe flipping through the manual while laying on the floor to figure out which of the 60 wires you need to connect, and no that's not an exaggeration.........

You will need:

A) Tools/Materials:

Phillips Screwdriver (I recommend non-powered, nothing will strip or break!)
Drill with bits specified in manual for valet/LED/programming/override switches
8mm Socket
Plastic Butter knife or 1" or less putty knife to pry apart trim
Tool for hood release handle, more on that later
Small dental pick, one of those floss sticks is good, for trim clips.
Wire Strippers
Sharp Knife
Soldering Gun, pencil doesn't have the wattage
Grounding lug with crimp tool
Tie Wraps, long and short
GOOD electrical tape, 3M Temflex 1700 is great. Cheap stuff becomes a black sticky mess

B) Parts:

Remote Starter with or without Alarm function
Module for transponder bypass (see below for more)
Door lock module (maybe, see transponder note)

C) Wiring connections for alarm:

Every single manufacturer has their own color codes and options for how to install their product. You MUST read carefully and figure out what you need to hook up and what will work for your year 5. Some wires will NOT be connected, I recommend you cut these about 3" long and tape them off so they wont confuse you or clutter the install area. I also suggest using masking tape to mark what the wire does and the type of connection it needs to make. (i.e. sunroof +, sunroof -, ground, starter +12v, etc...) This will simplify the install as you know what each wire does immediately and there is no confusion.

D) Wiring connections in car

Do not rely on the shop manual for this information, the one that is out there is for a 2006 only I believe.
There are many other sources for this information.
http://www.modifiedlife.com
http://techservices.audiovox.com Free but must Sign Up
http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/vehiclewiringdiagrams.asp

I used the information from Bull Dog, but it all seems to match up anyway. I believe Crutchfield also offers wire by wire hook ups, which is super convenient, but you must purchase it from them and they charge double the price.

If you run into trouble, head over here: http://www.the12volt.com/ . These guys do this for a living and also have access to manufacturer diagrams and install notes at their disposal.

At this point, I imported the data for all of this into an excel spreadsheet referencing every bit of info on one sheet of paper. It looked like this:
View attachment Mazda Alarm Install 12.21.11 (1).xls

REMEMBER, THIS IS FOR MY ALARM WITH MY TRANSPONDER AND MY YEAR 5, DO NOT USE THIS CHART FOR YOUR INSTALL IT WILL NOT WORK!!!! Feel free to use it as a template, just wipe the colors and fill it in with your own.

Transponder Note:

There are MANY different ways to go on this. Some stash a key under the dash in a box, some use antennas around the key cylinder, some interface directly with the computer and some do this as well as other functions in the car. Since I used a DEI alarm (Python 533/5303), I used the DEI xpresskit PK-ALL. This is one that interfaces directly with the car, without a key, but is only for starting. I recommend using a different unit for a DEI alarm, the DB-ALL. Why? The door pin hook up is a pain in the ass and you would still need an extra relay module to operate the locks. This module takes care of that and will make up the difference in price plus labor for the install will be easier. I think either unit can be used with a non DEI alarm but its probably best to stay within your brand.

IMHO I dont think the units that store an unused key make any sense. The cost difference is made up in a key you wont ever use and the antenna hookup for the interface is clumsy and very low tech, better options exist. If you use a start only interface, you will also need a door lock relay setup to work your locks. I used the DEI 451M which is only $10 and available at Best Buy. Its a universal product though and will work for any alarm setup.

Now for the fun part.......

Step 2: Disassembly, rip this thing apart!

I wont go into too much detail about this because a picture is worth 1000 words. This video is worth even more then.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VGwBQPywHO8

I do not recommend removing the radio screws, he isn't lying about how hard it is to remove the clips, mine exploded and removing the radio screws made it worse to pull off because I was worried it would break both parts. I dont know why mazda felt it needed to be held that tightly but ok............

Don’t try to save steps here, you need to take this all apart to get the dashboard parts off. The glove box and trim on the drivers side is hooked under the center console so it must be removed before you try the sides. Its also a good idea to use the rear cargo area to store the removed parts so you dont kick them, step on them, lose fasteners etc....

Before you remove the dash panels, you must get the door sill and kick panels off as well. The sills just pull up, and the kick panels are self explanatory. On the Glove box, be careful of the damper arm, its easy to break and mine cost $10 to replace Just gently pry it towards the center of the car and off the post, then you can lower the door to get to the last screws. Its also a good idea to remove the fuse panel door before you try to take off the panel. No special tricks on the drivers side except for the hood release cable. To get this off, you need to slide a thin stick in there to disengage the clip. Something about 1/4" wide, even a flip out nail file from a small nail clipper would work. If you have one of those tools that slide in on both sides to disengage an aftermarket head unit from its mounting tabs, that would be perfect. Just push it in dead center on the top of the handle between the dash trim and handle and it will slide towards you and drop down.

Next is the cover for steering column. This is held with screws from the bottom and just pries apart. No special tricks but you must unlock the column to get the bottom panel off. Be careful you dont break any clips on this one, just be gentle and take your time. Luckily parts for this car are super cheap so dont worry if anything does break, the whole center console cover is only about $50 for that huge piece!

Now for the fun part, making connections with all that colored spaghetti.

Step 3: Connections

Have you done this before? Did you watch the video? Oh ok, this video:
http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/installationvideo.html

Its also a good idea to look at the factory manual for the install, its very specifically detailed and tells you how to run the siren wires through the fire wall. Just do a search on this forum for it.

This should give you an idea of whats involved anyway, if you want some more reading on it:
http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchfield.com/ca/learningcenter/car/pdfs/security_guide.pdf

Notice Crutchfield lays it out across 3 days, there is no real reason to finish it in one and it takes off a lot of the pressure which causes mistakes. There is only one connection that renders the car inoperable, that is the starter relay interrupt, the starter wire must be cut in half and the relay spliced in. By doing this, there is no way to grind the starter by turning the key when its remote started. The relay is normally closed so even if the brain of the alarm is removed, it will still allow you to start the car.

Most importantly here: Test and retest. Make sure you are connecting the right things, if you dont know how to use a tester, or know someone who can help you with it, I dont think you should proceed from here. The instructions can be a little fuzzy describing things so you need to know what you are doing. I did all of my connections with the harnesses unplugged from the brain, once that harness was all connected, I plugged it in. Make sure you plug them in properly, you could easily blow up the alarm by turning the harness upside down or plugging it in one pin off to either side.

Scope out your component locations, there is a lot of room under the dash for everything, just make sure you are not blocking reassembly of anything. The upper left drivers side is a huge empty space, just make sure your wires can reach the passenger side BCM. You also want to have access to the adjustment on the shock sensor and you will need to access your bypass module for programming so dont mount it until you verified it works. I put my LED in the switch blanks on the left of the column and put the valet switch in the top of the left side lower cubby hole way in the back. Its easy to get to and yet very well hidden. Plus if it needs to be removed/changed, you cant see the hole and the switch blank can be replaced.

When you are ready to make a connection, I used a wire stripper to make rings about an inch apart, then used a knife to connect the rings and pull off the insulation. Once there is a bare spot, I used the tip of my voltage probe to split the strands and inserted the alarm wire through the middle, then wrapped it around the car wire, pulling it back together. At this point you can solder the connection, even if the solder didn't take, there is no chance for disconnection now. Now just wrap it neatly with electrical tape, if you want, you can use mini tie wraps to secure the tape but its up to you.

Your major trick with wiring will be the door lock relays and door pins. To lock and unlock the doors, you need to tap the SAME wire in the car with 2 different ones from the alarm. The lock output wire will need a 1000 ohm resistor in line with it. I soldered one end of the resistor about 6" back on the unlock wire and then connected the lock wire to the other end of the resistor and shrink wrapped the whole thing to insulate it. This way you only need to make one connection. In my car it was in the drivers kick panel, grounding the wire made the doors lock.

Again, every alarm and manufacturer is different, some have relays in the brain, and some do not. Mine did not, so I had to get the 451M relay module since direct wiring would overload the circuit in the alarm. If yours has relays, you dont need extra ones. If you are using a full function interface module like the DB-ALL you dont need the relays or the resistor either. This will be taken care of for you by the module talking to the Data Bus directly.

The connections to the BCM are made on the back side of the module. Due to its location, you might be better off removing it from its brackets so you have more slack to work with.

To wire the door pins, I wound up going to the dome light supervision wire since it reports when the door is open as well. If you want your alarm to monitor the door pins, or your car doesn't support this connection, see the bull dog site for wiring the pins on a 2006-7. This diagram is what makes me recommend the all in one bypass module, its very complicated for what it is and had I known in advance, I would not have done it the same way.

You dont need to hook up the dome light supervision wire, it will operate with the door locks.

Our parking lights draw less than 10A from the factory so you dont need a relay if your alarm has one built in for +12v flash.

I did not need a tach wire because my alarm uses a virtual set up that works perfectly without it.

There is no hood pin for the NA cars from the factory but you can use the wiring that is there. There is a 2 pin connector by the hood latch that you can tap into at the BCM, just cut the the lighter colored wire from the plug and go to the pin switch the alarm came with. (mine was Grey/Red, I think this one is universal for 2006-10 but easy to verify)

I also wired the hatch pin but its not necessary to do so since there is no way to open it without setting the alarm off. I only did it because my 2 way remote can tell me which zone was triggered. You would have to break a window to unlock the doors before you can open it. It was hard to even figure out how to test the operation of it lol. (Brown/Red, also universal but easy to test)

Step 4: Reassembly

Nothing here to elaborate on really, just make sure you didn't make the ignition harness too thick or block any clips for the steering column cover.

You did check to make sure it works first, right...............?

Let me know if anyone wants me to elaborate or change anything to make this better in any way.

Does this post really suck or does no one actually care?

twintrbo said:

Does this post really suck or does no one actually care?

Click to expand...

It doesn't suck at all! I just don't think there is a lot of people looking for it. I could see my self doing this, leaving the car in first by accident, and watching it go from there...

Its been done! Rumor is it happened at an auction once with some guys Lamborghini. There are safety procedures for manuals but its such a PITA. Personally, I never leave my car in gear, maybe if I lived in San Francisco.......

I just wondered because I asked for feedback and I never got any. I just wanted to know if it were helpful or even useful. Thanks!

twintrbo said:

Its been done! Rumor is it happened at an auction once with some guys Lamborghini. There are safety procedures for manuals but its such a PITA. Personally, I never leave my car in gear, maybe if I lived in San Francisco.......

I just wondered because I asked for feedback and I never got any. I just wanted to know if it were helpful or even useful. Thanks!

Click to expand...

lulz! (at the lambo) yeah it's a good write up! Dont worry haha

twintrbo said:

Its been done! Rumor is it happened at an auction once with some guys Lamborghini. There are safety procedures for manuals but its such a PITA. Personally, I never leave my car in gear, maybe if I lived in San Francisco.......

I just wondered because I asked for feedback and I never got any. I just wanted to know if it were helpful or even useful. Thanks!

Click to expand...

(cool)
Helpful and useful. The reference links are very good. I lost track of your alarm build since I don't look into or think much of the audio forum. This should be in the How-to forum.

I would find it more useful if you posted pics of 'locations' where you made connections without me having to research additional forums/sites. It should be a one stop shop sorta thing but I know there is a lot of detail to an alarm install. Perhaps you can supplement detail pics of the critical parts, like remote start, starter skill, and immobilizer bypass with your pics. I know I was looking forward to that.

Good job nonetheless and sure feels nice to DIY and knowing you made solid connections. My cousin did a Python alarm/starter install by himself. Has an engineering degree but otherwise know little about cars and he said it as really not difficult. As IshSonP5 noted, not many Mz5 owners will take the effort to do this, let alone mod much... I really want to install my CompuStar but I just don't have the time and am unsure about bypassing the immobilizer (scares me for some reason, prob b/c I just don't know).



For anyone who forgot how to use a multimeter (like me, haven't touched one for a long time), this is THE BEST refresher video!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bF3OyQ3HwfU&feature=BFa&list=LL0eKd_-EwIb7mQ8_N3tg5FQ&lf=mh_lolz