ultragauge shows my p5 stuck in open loop.

I got an ultraguage for my protege a month or so ago.
The ultraguage has a little indicator which shows the current fuel system status (either closed or open loop).
I have never seen the gauge show closed loop on my car. I tested the ultragauge on my gf's civic, and after about 5s from starting her can the gague shows closed loop.

The car runs very well, and my fuel economy is OK.. between 25-29 mpg depending on how much highway driving I do on a tank.

Do any of you guys have an ultraguage on your p5? does it ever show your car entering closed loop?

The gauge also hase a gauge for 02 sensor values.
At idle, and light load my first o2 sensor appears to be switching (the gauge only updates about once per second, so its hard to tell exactly what's going on) from ~.1 - ~.8 indicating closed loop operation.

At moderate acceleration, or if going up a hill (not anywhere near WOT) the sensor constantly reads .825 (indicating that there is no oxegen in the exhaust.. running rich?)

The car is stock 03.5, 145K miles ATX (driven in manual mode pretty much all the time since ~75k).
The only "mod" it has is a MIL eliminator (resistor and capacitor) on the 2nd o2 sensor, to eliminate a p4021 I had two years ago, but as far as I know that should not impact the fuel system status.

Any help and feedback from those of you using an ultragauge on your p5 is greatly appreciated.

are you sure you hooked it up right? could be the iac. or just that those gauges are junk and a waste of money unless you like flashy lights. but the proteges run so rich it could make it think its in open loop. i would invest in a wide band

I actually have the same problem on my car as well and almost posted a new thread until I saw this one.

A little background on my situation is that my car has had the same exact problem with my ultra gauge as you except this car is all stock, minus an injen intake. I even went as far as to replace the two o2 sensors since they were old anyways and the car still operates in open loop all the time. My only problem is that I think my speedometer is off by 10mph give or take, according to my ultra gauge, which could mean that my Vehicle speed sensor is not working properly, which in turn could cause an open loop situation. Again Idk

BTW these gauges read what the ECU is looking at and just is reporting to the drivers, so I hope these gauges are not junk as the previous poster has said.

My next move is to contact the company and see what they have on file for the protege5 operating in open loop all the time. I will for sure get back to this thread as soon as I find out whats going on as this has been bothering me as well for awhile. Good luck and subbing.

ya you cant go by an o2 gauge or not a cheap one if you want an o2 gauge spend the 200 bucks and get a wideband. they dont really tell you anything theres one in my moms vibe and the calibration is so far off its rediculous. the o2 gauge reads off the o2 sensor only not the ecu the ecu will decide if its in open or closed loop from the tps USUALLY. o2 sensor just says if it should add or take away fuel

The following was quoted from the Ultra-Gauge Support Help Desk:

We have not heard from any other Mazda owners on this issue. Actually, the only open loop issues to date are related to the Diesel vehicles only.
Are there any Trouble codes or Pending trouble codes present?

If the system is truly open loop the fuel mixture will be off and your mileage may suffer. In addition, UG relies on the vehicle being in closed loop in order to provide accurate fuel usage calculations. Fortunately the Mazda Protege uses a Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor, so when in closed loop, results should be very accurate.

If there are no codes, then it is likely that for what ever reason, the vehicles computer is falsely returning the loop status. In which case, you should ignore the loop indicator.

Open loop is the state of the emission system and is solely determined by the ECU. The ECU must see several conditions prior to declaring that the system can go closed loop. Primary to that is the O2 sensor(s).

End Quote.

So basically nothing we already knew and I guess I would have to look through my connections to the ECU and make sure there isn't a short or dirt messing with the connections. I'll let you know my findings if anything. Good luck to you.

It's nice to know my car is not the only one showing open loop.
I was concerned that the resistor and capacitor I have on my 2nd O2 sensor to eliminate my p4021 somehow confused my ECU to the point where it just stayed open loop.

I'm leaning towards thinking that our ECU just doesn't correctly report the loop status to the gauge. I'll e-mail ultragauge support letting them know.

If I have some spare time I'll try to hook up a real scope to my O2 sensor and verify the loop status that way.

I run an UG on my Isuzu Trooper, works perfectly and accurate on 38 gauges. I put it on my Mz3 and the accuracy is WAY off, although it picks up more gauges lol. I never got more into it than that since I have a wideband and other gauges in the mazda and use the UG for the Trooper, but it didn't seem to read the Mazda ecu right for some reason.

Thinking about it though my car runs open and closed loop sporadically, so the UG isn't a good meter for my situation, but seems like a great no frills gauge for na cars, hope you figure it out! It helps me keep reasonable mileage in my Isuzu

So this weekend I got a pending code through the UG saying p0456 which I looked up and it has said to be a small fuel leak. Now this is pending and I'm trying to pin point if this code would throw my car into open loop. If not, then oh well, because the car seems to be getting me 26-28mpg in the city on an auto trans. So maybe the UG does not work properly with Mazda's ecu in reporting the open/closed loop status.

I checked out my 2003 Protege5 for the first time with my buddy's computer. Its saying that the O2 sensors are functioning and that they are both getting the same voltage. And it says OL, FAIL. I seem to be getting pretty bad gas mileage and my car seems sluggish. Not sure if there's something going on here or not.

Anybody figure out this issue? Any updates?

i know this is old, but is this ultragauge basically a logger you hook up to the diagnostics port?

If so, that is primarily the problem...the eec-v ecu in 3rd gen proteges uses some very bizarre data caching...and doesn't output sensor data to the diagnostics port in real-time. I remember some members using this and saying the factory tach is off by over 1000 rpm based on loggers, but it was later determined by some more knowledgeable ecu people that that isn't the case, its just the port is getting 'old' data for whatever reason...

the open/closed loop issue is yet another annoying difference this ecu has...The computer doesn't use a single trigger for switching...it uses a bunch of different ones...starting a cold protege will put in a cold start open loop protocol...the first trigger for switching out of cold start comes at a water temp switch for 149*, at which point VTCS is switched off...but the car will sometimes remain in open loop anyway...data from IAT, tps, MAF all play a part in it, and I don't have the info in front of me at which point closed loop is finally switched in...

Thanks for the response. In my case, I'm not sure what type of device we used, but I can find out. It hooked up to the data port in the driver side footwell.

I just got my Ultra Gauge and I am getting the same open loop reading all the time. I messaged Installshield 2 about it and he told me to drive the car till it was fully warm then unplug the first O2 sensor to see what happens. The UG immediately registered a pending trouble code P0031: HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 1). The first O2 sensor switched to a constant 0.450 Volts and stayed there until I plugged it back in and cleared the trouble code. I also noticed when I was driving (fully warm) and took my foot off the gas both O2 sensors read 0.000 V then went back up when the clutch was pushed. This means to me that the car IS in closed loop and the fuel cut system is working. (no fuel during deceleration) The short term fuel bank 1 appeared to reflect closed loop as well with reduced fuel.
This is what Installshield 2 said about it:

***************
ok awesome man, a lot can be learned from that...It does mean the UG is getting what seems to be real time info, which is opposite of what i've heard before...but good news nonetheless...

As far as a wide band, that is simply a 'high resolution' O2 sensor...

closed loop, as in the government mandated protocol...runs the fuel mapping 'in reverse'...the O2 sensor is used to gather information about events that already occurred...and by directly reading the exhaust contents, and metering the air volume before hand, it can make very accurate adjustments to create nearly zero 'bad' emissions...

closed loop, simply, is used to keep an engine at nearly stoichiometric...meaning it uses the exact amount of fuel for a given amount of metered air for a 'complete' burn...but, for reasons beyond what we're working with here...an engine will require a mixture significantly richer than stoichiometric (which is very lean for an engine under load)...and that is where open loop comes in with pre-set maps to add additional fuel to keep everything burning cool enough to not detonate the engine...

so back to a wide band O2 sensor...the wide band unit has a higher resolution, in which its capable of reading exhaust contents that are far away from stoichiometric...where the stock narrow band sensor can't 'see' that...if that makes sense...

wide band o2 sensors are excellent when used with a computer that can handle them...and make tuning very easy (you can run something called 'high load closed loop', where you just pick an A/F ratio and the computer makes it happen no matter how hard the engine is driven)...but our factory ecu's have no idea what to do with the information one can provide...so, without a stand alone, in our cars...they're only a super accurate A/F gauge, and are good for correlating problems with the factory ecu's A/F information...

so now we're faced with figuring out why the UG is not showing closed loop...and my information on that seems a bit dated, as i simply thought it was the UG not getting data quick enough to see the switch...I'll keep digging, i'll let you know what i come up with...and then put it in the thread...

This is a response I got from UG about unplugging my unit:


Date: 01-31-2013 19:40:17

Order number: #25474
Vehicle Make: Mazda
Vehicle Model: Protege 5
Vehicle Year: 2002
Engine Size: 2.0
Tranmission: Manual
Protocol found: 9141
UltraGauge Type: EM 1.2
Message:

I am worried about theft and am planning on bringing the unit with me every time I leave my car. I was wondering the correct procedure for doing this (unplug & re-plug before or after ignition off etc.) and what the drawbacks of doing this would be. Will it have to scan my car every time I plug it back in or does it save enough data to keep working properly. Perhaps I can stash it under the dash while leaving it plugged in if disconnection proves to have too many drawbacks.


Date: 02-01-2013 05:43:56
Name: UltraGauge

Message:

Each time UG detects ignition off it saves any accumulated data. So you want to disconnect after ignition off. Set "force protocol" to 9141 and see if Safe Mode and Enhanced mode return the same number of gauges. If the number is the same, set the unit to Safe mode. Force protocol combined with safe mode will result in a very fast boot time.

Best regards,

UltraGauge Support
www.ultra-gauge.com
Support is available Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 9-5pm Central Time

pcb said:

so back to a wide band O2 sensor...the wide band unit has a higher resolution, in which its capable of reading exhaust contents that are far away from stoichiometric...where the stock narrow band sensor can't 'see' that...if that makes sense...

wide band o2 sensors are excellent when used with a computer that can handle them...and make tuning very easy (you can run something called 'high load closed loop', where you just pick an A/F ratio and the computer makes it happen no matter how hard the engine is driven)...but our factory ecu's have no idea what to do with the information one can provide...so, without a stand alone, in our cars...they're only a super accurate A/F gauge, and are good for correlating problems with the factory ecu's A/F information...

Click to expand...

I'm a little confused,.. is the wide band a sensor or a gauge or a combination of both. Does it only read the O2 sensor or does it have multiple gauges like the UG.

^^most wide band sensor 'kits' include a gauge to use with it...Although, some newer cars now have wide band o2 sensors as standard, and the newer computers will use that sensor for a great scope of closed loop modes...

Our computers don't do that, they don't have the internal processing to take advantage of a wide band...so most users that install them are using them simply as a tuning tool to 'see' what they're AFRs are with pin-point accuracy...but the stock computer is still only using the factory o2 sensor for fuel trimming...so to sort of answer your question; If you use a wide band on an other wise stock protege...you'll have 3 o2 sensors installed in the exhaust...the wide band sensor will only give a read out to an AFR gauge you mount in the car...and will have nothing to do with the car's stock computer...

I'm not familiar with the piggybacks a lot of guys use...I would assume some of those could utilize a wide-band o2 sensor, but not sure...I know that even still high load closed loop is a territory reserved for only some really expensive stand alones...most aftermarket ecus in a reasonable price range still only want a narrow band sensor...although, that has been changing over the last few years...some brand new budget ecu's can do it, they simply don't come with the sensor (which is another several hundred dollars)...

OK that answers a lot of my questions but leads me to more. (I know I could do an annoying search to find it all so I hope you don't "flame" me for being lazy or "thread jacking")

I'm assuming a "piggy back" is in addition to the ECU and a "stand alone" replaces it?
I've been wondering if a "chip" or "flash" or MP3 ECU could help me out in the MPG category. I'm not looking for performance, only economy. I remember a moderator saying that "any power or mileage chip threads will be deleted, they are all a waste of money". I don't want to stir up a hornets nest, I just want some general information about cost, ease of installation and operation and potential problems or dangers.

you have it right...a piggyback is some form of auxiliary computer that intercepts signals from factory sensors...manipulates them...then sends them to the factory computer...depending on brand, they can be all over the place in terms of what they actually are...Some have adjustable controllers that are installed in the car's interior...some are like a 'chip' that mounts between the ecu and wiring harness...and some are simply a system of voltage clamps or adjusters mounted on various sensor clips...

Some work...some are a complete gimmick...but, in the case of our computers...Not one that i know of gives complete tuning control in every situation...our factory computers have a series of loop holes where it can default back to things that no piggy backs have been able to manipulate...

so...in general...even the higher quality piggy backs are not as ideal as a stand alone...but still offer enough control for various purposes (most likely not increased mpg though)...

on the other hand...a stand alone is pretty much what you said...its just a complete engine management system...by definition the stand alone computer is capable of 100% controlling ignition timing, fuel requirements, as well as rev limits...the annoying issue is that its very hard to wire a stand alone to do everything else (the non engine related stuff, like heating/air conditioning control, stock gauges, etc.)...

so most users run some form of parallel system...where the stock ecu continues to handle all the very specific stuff, like mentioned above...and the aftermarket ecu controls the things you want to be able to adjust...

I noticed that when I started the car both O2 sensors were reading 0.445 V but within 15 or 20 seconds, O2 #1 was reading 0.825 V and then started to bounce around. Both MAF's were reading 7.13
Then when when the Eng. Temp hit 75* C the second O2 read .350 and the RPM dropped and it stuttered then the second O2 jumped back to 0.445-0.500. (perhaps it tried to go to some level of closed loop then it realized it didn't work so went back?)
When I held the RPM's at about 2k, the second O2 went to 0.350 and stayed around there. When I took my foot off the gas, the second O2 stayed at 0.350 until it stuttered a bit again then it went back to around 0.480.
I didn't drive it today yet but if I recall correctly, when I would coast in gear the O2 sensors wouldn't drop to 0V until the engine was fully warm. When it was warm, both O2's dropped to 0.000 V and stayed there until the RPM dropped to the set idle speed (depending on eng. temp) then I could feel it kick back in and the O2's started reading again.
I'm kinda thinking this car it always in closed loop. That first O2 starts giving a reading so fast that it may very well always be closed. I'm not sure yet about WOT I'll have to give that a spin (kinda hard to hammer it while looking at the gauge and trying to keep it on the road) but I recall both O2's were still bouncing around but it did go rich.
I remember Installshield 2 saying that the car goes out of closed loop at 3100 RPM and I certainly agree with that,... you can feel the car kick in at exactly that RPM even with the roughly calibrated butt dyno but the O2's still tried to maintain a certain reading and the fuel trim was bouncing around as well. I would expect the fuel trim and O2's to top out and stay there while in WOT but they kept bouncing around especially the first O2.
I'm kinda thinking that the first O2 is trying to maintain a certain reading for the second O2 (perhaps according to one of those map's you mentioned). The UG manual suggests that if there is two O2 sensors then there is probably one for each bank but we have only one bank with two sensors in series.
It really looks like the first O2 is working to maintain a certain reading on the second O2 fluctuating wildly to bring the second O2 reading up or down to it's preset value.



After thinking about it some more, I thought that I would take another test drive tomorrow and check the values of the short term fuel trim during warm up and at fully warm and WOT. My guess is that it should go rich and do that following the map (if it's in open loop) so the value should stay steady or rise or fall smoothly based on the RPM (or maybe % load or what ever sensor it is monitoring). If the first O2 and STF Trim are bouncing around I would assume that the car is still in some sort of closed loop. I'm pretty sure they do bounce and even the fuel trim goes negative. Is there any thing you think I should do or look for?

Here's a list of available gauges:

% engine load
coolant temp F*
coolant temp C*
short term fuel trim bank 1
long term fuel trim bank 1
RPM
MPH
KPH
timing advance
intake air temp F*
intake air temp C*
mass air flow #1 g/s
throttle position %
bank 1 O2 #1 V
bank 1 O2 #2 V
miles with cell on
kilometers with cell on
brake horsepower #1
brake kilowatts #1
torque #1 ft.lbs
torque #1 N.m
brake horsepower #2
brake kilowatts #2
torque #2 ft.lbs
torque #2 N.m
mass airflow #2
instant MPG
instant KPL
instant L/100 km
average MPG
average KPL
average L/100 km
average MPH
average KPH
average gallons/hr
average liters/hr
run time
miles
kilometers
gallons used
liters used
instant gallons/hr
instant liters/hr
fuel level gallons
fuel level liters
miles to empty
time to empty
(a bunch of trip and short trip stuff)
oil miles
oil kilometers
service miles
service kilometers
UG temperature F* (the internal temp of the device. Going over 160 F* voids warranty)
UG temperature C*
UG Voltage (this is the only available voltmeter for our cars. It was just added to the device, it measures the input voltage to the device. I'm sure glad they added that gauge)

Message:

Each time UG detects ignition off it saves any accumulated data. So you want to disconnect after ignition off. Set "force protocol" to 9141 and see if Safe Mode and Enhanced mode return the same number of gauges. If the number is the same, set the unit to Safe mode. Force protocol combined with safe mode will result in a very fast boot time.

Best regards,

UltraGauge Support
www.ultra-gauge.com




That worked: It registers 45 gauges in both safe and enhanced mode.

I wanted to set up the gauge inside my home (it was -12 *C last night) so I wired 12 Volts to pin 16 and 4 on the unit (don't tell UG that I did that or they'll void my warranty) but that only sorta worked. The unit powered up but without the data input, it wouldn't let me set up the pages and assign gauges. Probably for the better, I really don't wanna kill it.

Interface Connector Pins
J1850-VPM 2

Early Ford 2,10
ISO 9141 7,15
CAN 6,14
KWP2000 7,15

Common pins:
Battery 16
Ground 4,5
Vehicle’s OBDII connector pin-out:
The issue is that some manufacturers improperly use pins that they should not.

(some back yard mechanics use those pins too). Time for my cold start WOT test.

Does any one know if the Scan Gauge II shows closed loop???

The Ultra-Gauge displays all trouble codes and clears them but does not display the meaning of the code. Keep a close eye for the P0300 code. (random miss fire,.... really bad one for our cars).

01–02B
DTC TABLE [FS]

DTC No. Condition MIL O/D off indicator light DC Monitor item Memory function Page
P0031 HO2S heater (front) circuit low ON — 2 O2 sensor heater (See 01–02B–19 DTC P0031 [FS])
P0032 HO2S heater (front) circuit high ON — 2 O2 sensor heater (See 01–02B–20 DTC P0032 [FS])
P0037 HO2S heater (rear) circuit low ON — 2 O2 sensor heater (See 01–02B–22 DTC P0037 [FS])
P0038 HO2S heater (rear) circuit high ON — 2 O2 sensor heater (See 01–02B–23 DTC P0038 [FS])
P0101 MAF circuit range/ performance problem ON — 2 CCM (See 01–02B–25 DTC P0101 [FS])
P0102 MAF circuit low input ON — 1 CCM (See 01–02B–27 DTC P0102 [FS])
P0103 MAF circuit high input ON — 1 CCM (See 01–02B–29 DTC P0103 [FS])
P0106 BARO circuit performance problem ON — 2 CCM (See 01–02B–30 DTC P0106 [FS])
P0107 BARO circuit low input ON — 1 CCM (See 01–02B–31 DTC P0107 [FS])
P0108 BARO circuit high input ON — 1 CCM (See 01–02B–34 DTC P0108 [FS])
P0111 IAT circuit performance problem ON — 2 CCM (See 01–02B–35 DTC P0111 [FS])
P0112 IAT circuit low input ON — 1 CCM (See 01–02B–36 DTC P0112 [FS])
P0113 IAT circuit high input ON — 1 CCM (See 01–02B–38 DTC P0113 [FS])
P0117 ECT circuit low input ON — 1 CCM (See 01–02B–40 DTC P0117 [FS])
P0118 ECT circuit high input ON — 1 CCM (See 01–02B–42 DTC P0118 [FS])
P0121 TP circuit range/ performance problem ON — 2 CCM (See 01–02B–43 DTC P0121 [FS])
P0122 TP circuit low input ON Flashing 1 CCM (See 01–02B–46 DTC P0122 [FS])
P0123 TP circuit high input ON Flashing 1 CCM (See 01–02B–47 DTC P0123 [FS])
P0125 Excessive time to enter closed loop fuel control ON — 2 CCM (See 01–02B–49 DTC P0125 [FS])
P0126 Coolant thermostat stuck to open ON — 2 THERMOSTAT (See 01–02B–50 DTC P0126,P0128 [FS])
P0128 Coolant thermostat stuck to open ON — 2 THERMOSTAT (See 01–02B–50 DTC P0126,P0128 [FS])
P0131 HO2S (front) no inversion (low voltage stuck) ON — 2 CCM (See 01–02B–52 DTC P0131 [FS])
P0132 HO2S (front) no inversion (high voltage stuck) ON — 2 CCM (See 01–02B–55 DTC P0132 [FS])
P0133 HO2S (front) circuit slow response ON — 2 O2 sensor (See 01–02B–57 DTC P0133 [FS])
P0134 HO2S (front) circuit no activity detected ON — 2 CCM (See 01–02B–61 DTC P0134 [FS])
P0138 HO2S (rear) circuit high input ON — 2 CCM (See 01–02B–63 DTC P0138 [FS])
P0140 HO2S (rear) circuit no activity detected ON — 2 CCM (See 01–02B–64 DTC P0140 [FS])
P0171 Fuel trim system too lean ON — 2 Fuel (See 01–02B–67 DTC P0171 [FS])
P0172 Fuel trim system too rich ON — 2 Fuel (See 01–02B–70 DTC P0172 P0300 Random misfire detected Flashing or ON — 1 or 2 Misfire (See 01–02B–71 DTC P0300 [FS])
P0301 Cylinder 1 misfire detected Flashing or ON — 1 or 2 Misfire (See 01–02B–75 DTC P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304 [FS])
P0302 Cylinder 2 misfire detected Flashing or ON — 1 or 2 Misfire (See 01–02B–75 DTC P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304 [FS])
P0303 Cylinder 3 misfire detected Flashing or ON — 1 or 2 Misfire (See 01–02B–75 DTC P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304 [FS])
P0304 Cylinder 4 misfire detected Flashing or ON — 1 or 2 Misfire (See 01–02B–75 DTC P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304 [FS])
P0325 Knock sensor circuit malfunction ON — 1 CCM (See 01–02B–77 DTC P0325 [FS])
P0335 CKP sensor circuit malfunction ON — 1 CCM (See 01–02B–79 DTC P0335 [FS])
P0340 CMP sensor circuit malfunction ON — 1 CCM (See 01–02B–80 DTC P0340 [FS])
P0401 EGR flow insufficient detected ON — 2 EGR (See 01–02B–82 DTC P0401 [FS])
P0402 EGR flow excessive detected ON — 2 EGR (See 01–02B–83 DTC P0402 [FS])
P0421 Warm-up catalyst system efficiency below threshold ON — 2 Catalyst (See 01–02B–84 DTC P0421 [FS])
P0442 Evaporative emission system leak detected (small leak) ON — 2 Evaporative (See 01–02B–86 DTC P0442 [FS])
P0443 Evaporative emission control system purge solenoid valve circuit malfunction OFF — — Other — (See 01–02B–89 DTC P0443 [FS])
P0451 Fuel tank pressure sensor performance problem ON — 2 CCM (See 01–02B–90 DTC P0451 [FS])
P0452 Fuel tank pressure sensor low input ON — 2 CCM (See 01–02B–93 DTC P0452 [FS])
P0453 Fuel tank pressure sensor high input ON — 2 CCM (See 01–02B–95 DTC P0453 [FS])
P0455 Evaporative emission control system leak detected (blockage or large leak) ON — 2 Evaporative (See 01–02B–97 DTC P0455 [FS])
P0456 vaporative emission control system leak detected (very small leak) ON — 2 Evaporative (See 01–02B–102 DTC P0456 [FS])
P0461 Fuel gauge sender unit circuit range/performance ON — 2 CCM (See 01–02B–104 DTC P0461 [FS])
P0462 Fuel gauge sender unit circuit low input ON — 2 CCM (See 01–02B–105 DTC P0462 [FS])
P0463 Fuel gauge sender unit circuit high input ON — 2 CCM (See 01–02B–107 DTC P0463 [FS])
P0464 Fuel gauge sender unit circuit performance (slosh check) ON — 2 CCM (See 01–02B–108 DTC P0464 [FS])
P0480 Cooling fan relay malfunction OFF — 2 CCM (See 01–02B–109 DTC P0480 [FS])
P0500 VSS circuit malfunction (MTX) ON — 2 CCM (See 01–02B–111 DTC P0500 [FS])
P0500 VSS circuit malfunction (ATX) (See 05–02–6 AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTIC FUNCTION.)
P0505 IAC valve circuit malfunction ON — 1 CCM (See 01–02B–113 DTC P0505 [FS])
P0506 Idle control system RPM lower than expected ON — 2 CCM (See 01–02B–115 DTC P0506 01–02B
P0507 Idle control system RPM higher than expected ON — 2 CCM (See 01–02B–117 DTC P0507 [FS])
P0550 PSP switch circuit malfunction ON — 2 CCM (See 01–02B–118 DTC P0550 [FS])
P0660 VICS solenoid valve circuit malfunction OFF — 2 CCM (See 01–02B–119 DTC P0660 [FS])
P0703 Brake switch input malfunction ON — 2 CCM (See 01–02B–122 DTC P0703 [FS])
P0704 Clutch switch input circuit malfunction (MTX) ON — 2 CCM (See 01–02B–123 DTC P0704 [FS])
P0705 Neutral switch input circuit malfunction (MTX) ON — 2 CCM (See 01–02B–125 DTC P0705 [FS])
P0705 TR switch circuit malfunction (ATX) (See 05–02–6 AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTIC FUNCTION.)
P0706 TR switch circuit malfunction (open circuit) (ATX) (See 05–02–6 AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTIC FUNCTION.)
P0710 Transaxle temperature sensor circuit malfunction (open or short) (ATX) (See 05–02–6 AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTIC FUNCTION.)
P0711 Transaxle temperature sensor circuit range/ performance (stuck) (ATX) (See 05–02–6 AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTIC FUNCTION.)
P0715 Input/turbine speed sensor circuit malfunction (ATX) (See 05–02–6 AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTIC FUNCTION.)
P0731 Gear 1 incorrect (ATX) (See 05–02–6 AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTIC FUNCTION.)
P0732 Gear 2 incorrect (ATX) (See 05–02–6 AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTIC FUNCTION.)
P0733 Gear 3 incorrect (ATX) (See 05–02–6 AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTIC FUNCTION.)
P0734 Gear 4 incorrect (ATX) (See 05–02–6 AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTIC FUNCTION.)
P0741 TCC (stuck off) (ATX) (See 05–02–6 AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTIC FUNCTION.)
P0742 TCC (stuck on) (ATX) (See 05–02–6 AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTIC FUNCTION.)
P0745 Pressure control solenoid valve malfunction (ATX) (See 05–02–6 AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTIC FUNCTION.)
P0751 Shift solenoid A malfunction (stuck off) (ATX) (See 05–02–6 AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTIC FUNCTION.)
P0752 Shift solenoid A malfunction (stuck on) (ATX) (See 05–02–6 AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTIC FUNCTION.)
P0753 Shift solenoid A malfunction (electrical) (ATX) (See 05–02–6 AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTIC FUNCTION.)
P0756 Shift solenoid B malfunction (stuck off) (ATX) (See 05–02–6 AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTIC FUNCTION.)
P0757 Shift solenoid B malfunction (stuck on) ATX) (See 05–02–6 AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTIC FUNCTION.)
P0758 Shift solenoid B malfunction (electrical) (ATX) (See 05–02–6 AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTIC FUNCTION.)
P0761 Shift solenoid C malfunction (stuck off) (ATX) (See 05–02–6 AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTIC FUNCTION.)
P0762 Shift solenoid C malfunction (stuck on) (ATX) (See 05–02–6 AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTIC FUNCTION.)
P0763 Shift solenoid C malfunction (electrical) (ATX) (See 05–02–6 AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTIC FUNCTION.)
P0766Shift solenoid D malfunction (stuck off) (ATX)(See 05–02–6 AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTIC FUNCTION.)
P0767 Shift solenoid D malfunction (stuck on) (ATX) (See 05–02–6 AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTIC FUNCTION.)
P0768Shift solenoid D malfunction (electrical) (ATX) (See 05–02–6 AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTIC FUNCTION.)
P0771 Shift solenoid E malfunction (stuck off) (ATX) (See 05–02–6 AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTIC FUNCTION.)
P0772 Shift solenoid E malfunction (stuck on) (ATX) (See 05–02–6 AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTIC FUNCTION.)
P0773 Shift solenoid E malfunction (electrical) (ATX) (See 05–02–6 AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTIC FUNCTION.)
P1250 PRC solenoid valve circuit malfunction OFF — 2 CCM (See 01–02B–127 DTC P1250 [FS])
P1449 CDCV circuit malfunction OFF — — Other – (See 01–02B–129 DTC P1449 [FS])
P1450 Evaporative emission control system malfunction (excessive vacuum) ON — 2 CCM (See 01–02B–131 DTC P1450 [FS])
P1487 EGR boost sensor solenoid valve circuit malfunction OFF — — Other – (See 01–02B–133 DTC P1487 [FS])
P1496 EGR valve stepping motor coil 1 open or short OFF — — Other – (See 01–02B–135 DTC P1496 [FS])
P1497 EGR valve stepping motor coil 2 open or short OFF — — Other – (See 01–02B–137 DTC P1497 [FS])
P1498 EGR valve stepping motor coil 3 open or short OFF — — Other – (See 01–02B–139 DTC P1498 [FS])
P1499 EGR valve stepping motor coil 4 open or short OFF — — Other – (See 01–02B–141 DTC P1499 [FS])
P1512 VTCS shutter valve close stuck ON — 2 CCM (See 01–02B–143 DTC P1512 [FS])
P1562 PCM +BB voltage low ON — 1 CCM (See 01–02B–144 DTC P1562 [FS])
P1569 VTCS solenoid valve circuit low input ON — 2 CCM (See 01–02B–146 DTC P1569 [FS])
P1570 VTCS solenoid valve circuit high input ON — 2 CCM (See 01–02B–148 DTC P1570 [FS])
P1631 Generator output voltage signal no electricity OFF — — Other (See 01–02B–150 DTC P1631[FS])
P1632 Battery voltage monitor signal circuit malfunction OFF — — Other (See 01–02B–152 DTC P1632 [FS])
P1633 Battery overcharge OFF — — Other (See 01–02B–153 DTC P1633 [FS])
P1634 Generator terminal B circuit open OFF — — Other (See 01–02B–154 DTC P1634 FS)