2003 Mazda 2.0L DOHC SMOKING in the Mornings and leaking oil from exhaust port

I have a 2003 Protege 5 that is burning oil. It goes through about 2 quarts of oil in just under 2 weeks. Every time I start it in the morning or after about 6-8 hours of sitting it blows out smoke. We have replaced the PCV valve twice, put on a brand new head with new seals and everything, spark plugs are new, replaced the head gasket and checked the compression on the piston rings. Compression is good. We are stumped as to what else could be the problem. PLEASE HELP!

Here's some pictures of the motor and head before and after I installed the new head. Same smoking problem . . .

Old head looked like this on cyl 1 exhaust port


Exhaust manifold and gasket was soaked with oil on cyl 1


I hope the pictures help show what the problem is. I'm about to call if quits and go for a new motor but I don't want to.

At this point anything could be possible. My thoughts are:
1) Possible the seals/guides are bad again in the new head (but not likely. I grabbed the valve with pliers through the exhaust port and I didn't feel any play)
2) there is a small crack in the oil galley from the block to the head leaking oil into the cylinder (thus causing the same problem regardless of old or new head)
3) the oil ring on the piston is bad (even though compression is ~200PSI in all cylinders)

When I bought this car it didn't seem to smoke at all for the first week or two, until I changed the oil and filter in it myself (because I figured it should be done not knowing last time it was changed)

Used a fram filter and 4 quarts syn blend valvoline 5w-30.

I noticed that it did have a genuine Mazda parts filter on it ( which shows the owner took good care of it and the carfax showed it went to the dealership every 3k miles for a oil change)

Right after the oil change it started smoking. We noticed it in the morning after it's sat overnight, or if the car has sat for 6-8 hours or longer. But if it's driven and then only sat for 1-4 hours it starts right up and it won't smoke.

It hesitates real bad between 2-5k rpms, almost no power. It feels as if I'm towing a 3,000lb trailer behind me. I have to floor it to get me and 3 passengers up to speed while merging on the freeway, and it takes about 12-15 seconds to get up to 65.

This is the same problem that

Carbon Deposits on piston heads




Cleaned deposits and wiped down cylinder walls with brake clean



Old head looked like this . . .




New head next to old




New head exhaust ports



All new gaskets



AND AFTER DRIVING WITH THE NEW HEAD for 1,000 Miles, THIS IS WHAT IT LOOKS LIKE AGAIN!


Cylinder no 1 Exhaust Port and valves (note, small bit of oil dripping down from valve guide - are they supposed to do that a little?)







I hope the pictures help show what the problem is. I'm about to call if quits and go for a new motor but I don't want to.

At this point anything could be possible. My thoughts are:
1) Possible the seals/guides are bad again in the new head (but not likely. I grabbed the valve with pliers through the exhaust port and I didn't feel any play)
2) there is a small crack in the oil galley from the block to the head leaking oil into the cylinder (thus causing the same problem regardless of old or new head)
3) the oil ring on the piston is bad (even though compression is ~200PSI in all cylinders)

When I bought this car it didn't seem to smoke at all for the first week or two, until I changed the oil and filter in it myself (because I figured it should be done not knowing last time it was changed)

Used a fram filter and 4 quarts syn blend valvoline 5w-30.

I noticed that it did have a genuine Mazda parts filter on it ( which shows the owner took good care of it and the carfax showed it went to the dealership every 3k miles for a oil change)

Right after the oil change it started smoking. We noticed it in the morning after it's sat overnight, or if the car has sat for 6-8 hours or longer. But if it's driven and then only sat for 1-4 hours it starts right up and it won't smoke.

It hesitates real bad between 2-5k rpms, almost no power. It feels as if I'm towing a 3,000lb trailer behind me. I have to floor it to get me and 3 passengers up to speed while merging on the freeway, and it takes about 12-15 seconds to get up to 65.

This is the same problem that BRIGHT ON3 originally posted on this topic, but it was 2 years ago.

Anyone have any ideas?

wow I would really like to help but I'm stumped

I'll look into it and ask my brother tonight

was your engine cold when you tested the compression??

and

could it still be the rings even if the compression is good??


I ain't no mechanic, so I'm just putting some stuff out there. Don't know how else I could help

If you don't get the answer from this forum, try triple zoom or go on the car lounge

What were the numbers from the compression test?

subscribing for further information.

From what I've read from others on this forum, there are multiple piston rings. Some of them are for compression, and others are for oil. The oil rings could be bad and allow the burning oil, but the rings used for compression could be good enough that you have good compression. I have no experience in rebuilding an engine, but maybe this can help you in some way. Sometimes just disassembling the pistons and cleaning the rings, etc can fix the problem. Maybe you could try some sort of additive that can fix stuck rings?

Any update to this? I may be running into the same issue....

I'm having the same problems let me know if you come up with something

If it was a valve seal you'd have carbon deposits on one side (where the intake valve is) of the spark plug, rather than the whole thing. Also I noticed you didn't say much about oil deposits on the intake side of things, which I'm assuming is because there isn't any. Most likely you're pulling oil up through the rings and shitting it down your exhaust track.

FYI, it's not uncommon for oil rings to collapse and create the symptoms you're describing. Generally they collapse from a lack of oil changes (carbon builds up in the ring lands and makes them stick). You'll still have great compression but it'll burn oil like a mother fucker.

And since you're obviously mechanically inclined I wouldn't bother with any additives, you're just wasting money. Just tear it apart again and re-ring it, toss new bearings in while you got it all apart. Rockauto sells bomb ass DNJ rebuild kits for cheap, their crank and rod bearings are top notch.

Also necrobump lol. I need to find something better to do at work.

Had similar problems with mine although it was throughout all the cyl. Power was lacking and crazy carbon build up across the whole head and pistons. I ultimately ended up spinning a number one rod bearing due to oil starvation for whatever reason. After tearing down the block I noticed that the rings were no good anymore and the valve seals were leaking into the cylinders. Best bet is to pull the whole thing and rebuild it. I had crappy compression however which designated rings where going out.

As dumb as this sounds, try heavier oil. 5w-30 is really thin and even worse if a synthetic. That stuff likes to find its way out of everything. Step up to a 10weight especially if you have a motor with higher mileage on it. I did an oil change with similar oil once on a higher mileage car and created a rear seal leak because of the thinner oil. Being that it’s the only thing that you changed since the problem, it’s worth a shot.

happens to me the same,
but my head threw too much oil, the same parts of the exhaust side, like yours
and I thought they were the rubbers of the strategies of the valves
and when bringing it to rebuild my head told me I was too warped
check piston rings and seemed to be in good condition,
and spinning the crank and felt good,
and put new rings and spin the crankshaft and it felt harder.
much better
ok
assemble the engine and set it up today and tell them how I was with the problem
because it does not say that pas with engines

Hello friends, I said what happened to my problem
my problem was the same as FATONY,
I put new rings, rectify the head, and the oil leak is finished,
I think this will be your solution FATONY,
my rings seemed to be in good condition, but I was wrong.
I hope to serve something my comment

I would say piston rings.

TOYOHONDA said:

Hello friends, I said what happened to my problem
my problem was the same as FATONY,
I put new rings, rectify the head, and the oil leak is finished,
I think this will be your solution FATONY,
my rings seemed to be in good condition, but I was wrong.
I hope to serve something my comment

Click to expand...

Did you have to remove the whole engine and tranny? Or just pop the head off, and push the pistons up from the bottom to change the rings?

Mine does the same. Always when cold, I've read from here somewhere that our FS engines have a little problem...

When they are cold they kinda dont seal well until the car has warmed up, hence the smoke. And this happens when the engine gets some high mileage. Mine started near 100k. The car will still make its compression, and mostly work fine. I'd started shopping for some engine repair components if I were you, because If your car is starting loose power and bog it can never be too soon to repair that engine

I have the same problem, I can sit at the first intersection I get to from cold and watch the smoke wafting around the car!
Having said that the 16v dohc engine goes well when it is warm, loves to rev.
Ive been hoping for a fix in a can but ive been told its rings.

Where is the pcv valve so I can check it before the rings are done?