2009 Mazda5 Spark Plug Change

NGK plugs are good. Most decent plugs come per-gapped to spec. It doesn't hurt check but not necessary. Anti seize is nice to use but not necessary unless you are the gorilla type who like to over tighten everything. Think of it this way, how often do you change plugs during the time you own said car?
 
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What is the correct gap?

And I agree, double check the gap. If you don't have a gapper, and I think they are under $1 at autozone or pepboys, just ask to borrow the gapper from the clerk where you buy your plugs.

As for anti-sieze compound, I've never used it and have never had any issues.
 
Haven't looked on this one, but every other car I've owned listed the plug gap on an emission sticker either on the bottom side of the hood or the firewall.

Here's to clear up the 'pre-gapped' debate - http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_support/spark_plugs/faqs/faqpregap.asp?mode=nml

Exactly. It boils down to logistics choices made by the plug manufacturer. Do we supply every single plug per the auto manufacturer's specs or do we supply the plugs that nearly cover all of the possibilities.

Regarding anti-seize, you have to use common sense. If you leave plugs in for 100,000 miles and live on the ocean, you better use anti-seize. You may also have a particular plug on a particular car that necessitates using anti-seize, for example the '04-'07 F150. I also wanted to say that when I say "use anti-seize", I don't mean bathe the threads in goop. I mean put a very small bead all the way around the plug, about halfway up the threads, or a little closer to the end depending on how small the amount is. If you decide not to use any, you'll want loosen the plug and re-torque it yearly if the engine is new to you, just to learn for your own peace of mind what you really need to be doing. That's just my opinion. I've had some bad stuff happen that cost me a ton of money and spend a few minutes extra every year making sure those things don't bite me in the ass again.
 
I finally got a chance to look in the 2006 Factory Workshop Manual, and I wanted to clear up any mis-information given earlier by myself or others regarding the anti-sieze or gapping.

1. It does not mention using anti-sieze with the factory recommened plugs.
2. It says to check the gap with a WIRE style gap checker only.
3. It says not to adjust the gap, simply replace plug.

(deadhorse)
 
I finally got a chance to look in the 2006 Factory Workshop Manual, and I wanted to clear up any mis-information given earlier by myself or others regarding the anti-sieze or gapping.

1. It does not mention using anti-sieze with the factory recommened plugs.
2. It says to check the gap with a WIRE style gap checker only.
3. It says not to adjust the gap, simply replace plug.

(deadhorse)
Umm, so if I check it, per #2, and find a gap, I should not adjust it, per #3, and just stick it in? Purpose of #2? oO
 
I finally got a chance to look in the 2006 Factory Workshop Manual, and I wanted to clear up any mis-information given earlier by myself or others regarding the anti-sieze or gapping.

1. It does not mention using anti-sieze with the factory recommened plugs.
2. It says to check the gap with a WIRE style gap checker only.
3. It says not to adjust the gap, simply replace plug.

(deadhorse)

1. Nor does any workshop manual talk about anti-seize, including the workshop manual for the F150 with plugs broken off in the heads.
2. Wire gauges are the only reliable gauges. Look at the other style and think "Chinese factory run by slave children with no quality control".
3. That is in reference to used plugs.
 
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