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Thread: 2009 Mazda5 Spark Plug Change

  1. #1
    Registered Member tefloncandi's Avatar

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    2009 Mazda5 Spark Plug Change

    Today I was quoted $143.00 to change my spark plugs by the "Stealership"; is there a "How To" on the topic of spark plugs?
    Neil"Tefloncandi"Mala
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  2. #2
    ZOOOOOOOOOM ZOOOOOOOOOOOM mazdadude's Avatar

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    If you have the correct tools, (ratchet, spark plug socket, coil pack socket, 6" socket extension, long nose pliers, gap checker), you should be able to do it yourself for about $45 in parts (plugs, anti-seize compund) and less then 45 minutes labor.

    There are 2 different sized plugs used on the Mazda 2.3L motor. Make sure to use the same as the one you take out. Follow the plug manufacturers instructions when adjusting gap.

    Stock plugs are designed to last ~100k.
    Last edited by mazdadude; 12-06-2011 at 03:49 PM.
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  3. #3
    Registered Member Rally Man's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by tefloncandi View Post
    Today I was quoted $143.00 to change my spark plugs by the "Stealership"
    LMAO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Is what I would of showed them. The spark plugs are right there, in front of you, ready to hit your eye sockets. Glad you didn't follow thru with those idiots.

  4. #4
    Registered Member Silentnoise713's Avatar

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    Did the dealer suggest they should be changed? Unless you are a traveling salesman, how many miles could you have on an '09?

    The process is universal for any newer car that has coil packs. You can prob find something on youtube or internet and don't need to focus on Mazda5 for this one (except how to remove the engine cover).
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  5. #5
    OG mazda owner~ xxxmonoxidechil's Avatar


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    make sure to stick with NGK plugs also when replacing them. the MZR can be kinda finicky about plugs.

  6. #6
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    I did mine(08 5AT) at 75k myself and it took about 20 minutes. All you need is the rachet, sparkplug socket and extention, and some anti-seize. I bought the plugs at Mazda(about a buck more than anywhere else and they come pre-gapped). I'm not sure what a coil pack socket is, as mine just popped off. I've got 85k on the car now and it runs great.


    Quote Originally Posted by mazdadude View Post
    If you have the correct tools, (ratchet, spark plug socket, coil pack socket, 6" socket extension, long nose pliers, gap checker), you should be able to do it yourself for about $45 in parts (plugs, anti-seize compund) and less then 45 minutes labor.

    There are 2 different sized plugs used on the Mazda 2.3L motor. Make sure to use the same as the one you take out. Follow the plug manufacturers instructions when adjusting gap.

    Stock plugs are designed to last ~100k.

  7. #7
    ZOOOOOOOOOM ZOOOOOOOOOOOM mazdadude's Avatar

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    by coil pack socket, I meant the socket you use to remove the coil packs, its either a 8 or 10mm socket... I could not remember which....
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  8. #8
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    I replaced our sparkplug after 5-years before our long drive to L.A. last summer. Saw them in Canadian tire - iridium.

    Very easy to replace, some challenges along the way. I do it easy and patiently. I've learned my lessons
    in the past in my old car, with lost thread when replacing the plugs. First tight by hand then with the wrench.
    If in doubt back off few turns and do it again.


    Last edited by skyhawk; 12-07-2011 at 06:40 AM.

  9. #9
    OG mazda owner~ xxxmonoxidechil's Avatar


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    Quote Originally Posted by 5zoom View Post
    I did mine(08 5AT) bought the plugs at Mazda(about a buck more than anywhere else and they come pre-gapped).
    the plugs are pre-gapped no matter where you buy them. my local mazda didnt have them in stock, but the Oreilly's down the street did. so thats where i got mine.
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    Owned several cars in 20+ years of driving. Never used anti-seize and never used gapping tool. Just buy and install. It's really easy and everyone who can turn a screwdriver should be able to do it. My only advice is when telling the auto parts store clerk that you drive a Mazda 5, make sure they don't select the part for an MX-5 instead.

  11. #11
    Lover of 5's Robotaz's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by professorhank View Post
    Owned several cars in 20+ years of driving. Never used anti-seize and never used gapping tool. Just buy and install. It's really easy and everyone who can turn a screwdriver should be able to do it. My only advice is when telling the auto parts store clerk that you drive a Mazda 5, make sure they don't select the part for an MX-5 instead.
    I check the gap on my plugs before I install them and find poorly gapped plugs all the time. You should always check them. Also, all of the '04-'07 F150 owners that didn't add anti-seize compound to the plug threads found out the hard way how much it costs to remove heads to get plugs out that have broken in half. Standard cost was +$1,000. You should always use anti-seize in case the plugs have QC problems.

  12. #12
    ZOOOOOOOOOM ZOOOOOOOOOOOM mazdadude's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Robotaz View Post
    I check the gap on my plugs before I install them and find poorly gapped plugs all the time. You should always check them. Also, all of the '04-'07 F150 owners that didn't add anti-seize compound to the plug threads found out the hard way how much it costs to remove heads to get plugs out that have broken in half. Standard cost was +$1,000. You should always use anti-seize in case the plugs have QC problems.
    I totally agree with you Robotaz. However, in the intrest of good discussion and information, the Mazda Factory workshop manual recommends gapping and anti-sieze, whereas there is a Service Bulletin from NGK I have seen that states that anti-sieze can create a situation where the technician can over-torque and break the plug because of the anti-seize. The PDF of the tech bulletin can be found here. http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/TB-...1antisieze.pdf

    The method I like to use, is to use the anti-seize and torque carefully.
    Last edited by mazdadude; 12-10-2011 at 04:31 PM.
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  13. #13
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    I agree with the above as well, but beware that most people would damage the fine tip of iridium plugs when gapping.
    I've never heard that mazdadude, but this sentence somewhat concerns me...

    Metal shell plating acts as a “lubricant” which breaks away from the main body of the spark plug during removal, preventing damage to the spark plug and or threads in the cylinder head.
    What becomes of the plating? I'm not saying NGK doesn't know better than myself, but does it stay in the cylinder head?
    Aaron

  14. #14
    Lover of 5's Robotaz's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by mazdadude View Post
    I totally agree with you Robotaz. However, in the intrest of good discussion and information, the Mazda Factory workshop manual recommends gapping and anti-sieze, whereas there is a Service Bulletin from NGK I have seen that states that anti-sieze can create a situation where the technician can over-torque and break the plug because of the anti-seize. The PDF of the tech bulletin can be found here. http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/TB-...1antisieze.pdf

    The method I like to use, is to use the anti-seize and torque carefully.
    Hmm...wouldn't the reduced friction only be an issue if you stopped turning the threads? I don't know when or where, but someone I trust told me a long time ago to not stop turning a torque wrench once I start so that static friction isn't an issue. I guess the anti-seize could affect the kinetic friction as well, but it seems like the designers would build in an agent that maintains typical metal-to-metal friction. Oh well, the point that you make is a very good one. I'm going to research that issue some and see what I can dig up.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by xxxmonoxidechil View Post
    the plugs are pre-gapped no matter where you buy them. my local mazda didnt have them in stock, but the Oreilly's down the street did. so thats where i got mine.
    No they are not pre-Gapped. Those plugs could go into 20 different cars with different gaps. ALWAYS GAP YOUR PLUGS!

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