crank, no start, giving P0335, what else should i do?

jms-msp

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mazdaspeed protege
So this is the problem. I blew a hole in the block so I bought a donor motor and swapped all the parts over. Dropped the motor in hooked up the wire harness and to my dismay, the car would not start. At first the car would not even crank, so I checked all the connections from the starter, sensors, ect., and all seemed well. My brother came by and checked it out. He did exactly what I did except he stuck his hand under the intake manifold and fondled the some wires and vwalah! It started to crank! We still wondered why it was not getting fuel or spark, so I ended up buying a scanner and it read a P0335 code. We decided to replace the ckp sensor, to our dismay the car did not start and again the P0335 code popped up. Do you think it could be a loose connection on the wire harness? Has this ever happen to you? and Should I change the CMP? it was supposed to be a routine engine swap, but now its turning into a pain. I feel my knowledge of this car is pretty good, but this has me stumped. Please help, I would appreciate your suggestions as to how to get my baby up and running again. Thanks peeps.
 
idk what CMP is but im assuming its crank position sensor? cuz thats what im getting from P0335
 
the cmp is actually the cam position, it's the one that sits next to the cam on the valve cover.
 
Well if the cam position sensor went out it would cause the problems you have, so I would replace it
 
thecrash91, yes, you are right, but the thing is i already changed it out. what i was trying to say is, do you think the cmp has something to do with it too? like maybe the computer over compensating.
 
P0335 is Crank Position Sensor A Malfunction (Check for bent teeth on the Crank pully)
P0385 is Crank Position Sensor B Malfunction ???
 
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Cam or crank sensor going out will cause the car not to start, they have to both work.

What does CMP stand for? I am use to CAS for cam angle sensor.....but what is CMP?
 
highspeed, Probably the same thing, we obtained our information from alldata, internet reference, ect. Cmp stands for cam position sensor, from what we found. this weekend I’m going to cut the wire harness open and follow the wires of the (CKP) and see if the connections is loose somewhere. If that fails I guess I could try changing out the (CMP aka CAS).
shane02pro5, good call, but we did that all ready. checked to see if it the crank pulley wabbly, even cleaned the teath.
 
also we did a multimeter test sensor side to see if it was receiving volts, and it was, so the sensor is not faulty.
 
What car was the donor motor from? I know that the 626 motor has cam gears with one pickup vs. the protege's 3 pickup cam gear. I was told the the crank pulley is different but I haven't confirmed it yet.
 
sport23, hum, that is very interesting. well i am sure it is possible it could be, the valve cover does have japanese writing on it. and i did get it for $750. the guy did say it was imported so i'm guessing it is possible. i could pop the valve cover and check the cam. hum, i'm gona try to get more info on that cam gear pickup and crank pick up. that was a great suggestion
 
if that is the solution i guess my fianc is gonna have buy me some aftermarket cam gears!! and maybe a crank pully as well hehehehe. nah, and the thing is i already exchanged the core, uh, i'm so lousy.
 
Sport23 directed me to some great advice and so took it and ran with it. i took a trip to Irwindale, ca, on a scavenger hunt for a 01-03 crank pulley. Luckily one of the many wrecking yards had one. Purchased it and I was on my way. Changed the crank pulley, put the key in the ignition and with a knock, knock here and a tick tack there, the engine started. But like I said, “knock, knock here” it was like listing to change bounce around in the dryer. So I turned it off and called the guy who sold me the engine. Explained the situation to him and 5 minutes later he was on the search for another fs, but this time it would be a domestic engine. So with no extra charge he replaced the crumby one for an 03 fs, the one I ask for in the first place. The one he initially gave to me was so disgustingly full of sludge and in poor shape that it looked as if some one popped the head cover off and gave it a Cleveland steam roller. The newer one on the other hand is in great shape. So there I was, again, on another mission to swap this fs. As I finished the swap and started the car, the engine purred like a cat. Did every additive possible such as lucas in the oil, sea foam in the gas, oil, and vac line and cleaned many valves and the intake manifold with carb cleaner. I’m so happy with my msp, it’s driving like it was new. Even though this situation caused much heartaches and headaches I feel my knowledge of the msp just grew tenfold. Thanks for all your help and suggestions. Until the next problem arises, this is jms_msp signing off. p.s. once again thank you!!!!
 
I have a frighteningly similar story. A 2003 Mazda protege5. It had a rod knocking. I bought a 35k Jap motor and did a swap. The old motor was running just a bad knock. When a took the intake off I discovered that the butterfly valves/ intake side air regulators had come loose and had fallen into the motor. Despite all this it was running. It did a motor swap and was very careful. The motor would spin but not run. I checked all the components from your manual (bless the angel who has put the factory workshop manual on line for you) Out of insane desperation I took it to the dealer. (insane move) They said the cam position sensor was bad. Originally they said they would find the problem for $250. After I agreed to pay for the senor they then said "oh there is no data telling us what's bad from the computer so it must be bad". All they wanted was $1500. for another computer. I declined to have them just throw parts at the car, so I paid them $550. for nothing. I bought a used working computer and this has done nothing. I replaced the injector rail with the newer Jap rail. I have tested every thing I know howto. I can get it to run using starter fluid. I tested the fuel pump at the tank and got 80 pounds. At the motor all I get it about 15. (It is very hard to tell if it a good reading) Is there a security switch that keeps the injectors from functioning? The dealer said there is a recall on these motors for compression. I am about at my wits ends. Please help
 
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