Lol like I said I've been lurking around. I believe my tuner did use a resistor. Can't remember for sure tho. I'll have to go back and check when I have some free time. Right now I have the stock msp turbo manifold and DP with custom hard pipes. I'm running the aem FIC of my stock P5 ecu. I'm having a few little problems tho. I can only maintain 6psi. It'll spike up to ten but when we ran it on the dyno it wouldn't go any higher. Not sure why. The motor is built too. Oliver Forged rods and Weisco Pistons, stock compression 9:1. The Head was redone with custom Manley valves and springs. Also J-spec Intake and exhaust cams, APR Fasteners. I'm running a musimoto black Front mount intercooler also. Hope this helps
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
AEM F/IC writeup
- Thread starter Ricktalife
- Start date
So the MAF signal is out of range for the AEM. You need to put a 1.2kohm resistor to ground on the MAF signal to burn off some voltage.
http://forum.aempower.com/forum/index.php?PHPSESSID=a9341aba07ed18f3c24db514ade960d1&topic=20181.0
I bought mine off of swirlFX and he had it wired up already. I assume he was having issues/frustrations otherwise he wouldn't have sold it. I went through the connections using the AEM manual and our service manual and it looked like he did it correctly, if a little on the messy side. The resistor did throw me off until I was pointed to that Miata thread.
I should have time next weekend to plug it in and start playing around, but my control arm bushings should be here and that will probably take up most of my MSP time. At least this thread is giving me some motivation to get started so we can help each other out.
The big decision I haven't been able to make was whether to get the AEM wideband gauge combo or use an Innovate LC1 I have. I think the LC1 will be fine, but I have zero gauges, and kept debating to get ForceFed to make me a custom bezel or to go with a carputer and software gauges.
This showed up this past week and is definitely pushing me towards the carputer route.
http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/mp3car-blog-talk/146049-nokia-qml-rapid-development-ces-2011-a.html
http://forum.aempower.com/forum/index.php?PHPSESSID=a9341aba07ed18f3c24db514ade960d1&topic=20181.0
I bought mine off of swirlFX and he had it wired up already. I assume he was having issues/frustrations otherwise he wouldn't have sold it. I went through the connections using the AEM manual and our service manual and it looked like he did it correctly, if a little on the messy side. The resistor did throw me off until I was pointed to that Miata thread.
I should have time next weekend to plug it in and start playing around, but my control arm bushings should be here and that will probably take up most of my MSP time. At least this thread is giving me some motivation to get started so we can help each other out.
The big decision I haven't been able to make was whether to get the AEM wideband gauge combo or use an Innovate LC1 I have. I think the LC1 will be fine, but I have zero gauges, and kept debating to get ForceFed to make me a custom bezel or to go with a carputer and software gauges.
This showed up this past week and is definitely pushing me towards the carputer route.
http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/mp3car-blog-talk/146049-nokia-qml-rapid-development-ces-2011-a.html
Did a little bit of research. One thing I found interesting is in the SplitSecond FTC-1 instructions for the Mazdaspeed Protege, it says that PCM pin 21 is the negative crank sensor signal, and 22 is the positive signal. This is backwards from the way SwirlFX wired his up and the instructions posted here.
Now the AEM may be able to read an inverted signal and invert it automatically, but not sure. Seems weird that SplitSecond would make a mistake like that in their published instructions though.
Well it's almost 3am, time to sleep.
Now the AEM may be able to read an inverted signal and invert it automatically, but not sure. Seems weird that SplitSecond would make a mistake like that in their published instructions though.
Well it's almost 3am, time to sleep.
- :
- 03.5 YLW MSP
Did a little bit of research. One thing I found interesting is in the SplitSecond FTC-1 instructions for the Mazdaspeed Protege, it says that PCM pin 21 is the negative crank sensor signal, and 22 is the positive signal. This is backwards from the way SwirlFX wired his up and the instructions posted here.
Now the AEM may be able to read an inverted signal and invert it automatically, but not sure. Seems weird that SplitSecond would make a mistake like that in their published instructions though.
Well it's almost 3am, time to sleep.
Yeah its werid but werider things have happened. Like auto parts store still have the wrong parts listed for our cars after all these years ect ect ect.
Yeah its werid but werider things have happened. Like auto parts store still have the wrong parts listed for our cars after all these years ect ect ect.
Thats not weird, thats because MSP's are clandestine like Delta Force, we all know they exist......but officially they do not ;-)
MALESKIMP3
Member
- :
- mazda protege mp3
sup guys, I'm also running the FIC on my turbo MP3 and most of the same prob you guys ran into with the cranksensor cel and maf.
Mine did the same thing when I plugged it into the FCI but it was because of the Maf getting to much voltage that it would die not the Crankshaft sensor. I currently am running it without the maf hooked up to the FIC but will try this 1.2k res to ground to try and get my maf to connect to the FCI.
I had originally had the SSAFC installed on my car and those instructions are correct. I uninstalled the SSAFC because I could never get the car to run good at idle so I switched to the FIC because of the o2 voltage clamp option that is built into it unlike the SSAFC.
Well I switched from the bypass to the FIC, and it's giving me the same problem as before. It throws a CEL p0335 I think is the code.. for Crankshaft Position Sensor A Malfunction, and when I go to start it the car will rev up for a second or 2 and then dies. So I plugged the bypass back in and it started normally. I am really confused. It can't be a loose wire, because the bypass would not work either if it was. Guess I'll have to give tech support another call.
Mine did the same thing when I plugged it into the FCI but it was because of the Maf getting to much voltage that it would die not the Crankshaft sensor. I currently am running it without the maf hooked up to the FIC but will try this 1.2k res to ground to try and get my maf to connect to the FCI.
Did a little bit of research. One thing I found interesting is in the SplitSecond FTC-1 instructions for the Mazdaspeed Protege, it says that PCM pin 21 is the negative crank sensor signal, and 22 is the positive signal. This is backwards from the way SwirlFX wired his up and the instructions posted here.
Now the AEM may be able to read an inverted signal and invert it automatically, but not sure. Seems weird that SplitSecond would make a mistake like that in their published instructions though.
Well it's almost 3am, time to sleep.
I had originally had the SSAFC installed on my car and those instructions are correct. I uninstalled the SSAFC because I could never get the car to run good at idle so I switched to the FIC because of the o2 voltage clamp option that is built into it unlike the SSAFC.
Ricktalife
Member
- :
- 2012 Subaru WRX
Thank you guys for clearing these issues up! I'm glad I didn't switch any of the wires around yet, or else I would have screwed it up more lol. Were you told that the 1.2k resistor was the right one to use, or did you just guess? Also, would I be able to find one at a local auto store?
MALESKIMP3
Member
- :
- mazda protege mp3
Most deffinatly will find one at radioshack, a five pack for .99
Here's a link to the SS instructions.
http://www.splitsec.com/products/instpdfs/FTC1-065_Mazdaspeed_nst_RevB.pdf
This would be pretty simple to test with a voltmeter and the car running. I'll definitely do that before I fire her up the first time to be sure.
Another discrepancy is that for the negative cam and crank sensor wires, 86 and 22, the FIC wiring instructions pdf from the first page say to tap them. The AEM instructions clealy show an intercept for these, both in the picture and the table.
Swirl intercepted them (which is what I would have done) but for some reason simply didn't connect the 85 pin going to the ECU to CAM1 MAGI+, 9b. It's simply dangling and the 9b wire was never removed from the original bundle. The other three ECU inputs, CAM1 MAGI-, CRK MAGI+/-, are hooked up. Seems really weird he would have wired up all but one, but he did say he never actually tuned his car with it. Maybe he just missed it.
Like with any +/-, I am sure the - is actually common, which is why tapping still works, but you are banking on the AEM not needing to alter the negative signals to the ECU. I would change the wiring instructions to intercept these signals instead of tapping them. It's only two more solders, well worth the extra safety.
You really have to spend some time with the wiring diagram before any of this makes sense. It was really nice of AEM to put labels on all the wires.
http://www.splitsec.com/products/instpdfs/FTC1-065_Mazdaspeed_nst_RevB.pdf
This would be pretty simple to test with a voltmeter and the car running. I'll definitely do that before I fire her up the first time to be sure.
Another discrepancy is that for the negative cam and crank sensor wires, 86 and 22, the FIC wiring instructions pdf from the first page say to tap them. The AEM instructions clealy show an intercept for these, both in the picture and the table.
Swirl intercepted them (which is what I would have done) but for some reason simply didn't connect the 85 pin going to the ECU to CAM1 MAGI+, 9b. It's simply dangling and the 9b wire was never removed from the original bundle. The other three ECU inputs, CAM1 MAGI-, CRK MAGI+/-, are hooked up. Seems really weird he would have wired up all but one, but he did say he never actually tuned his car with it. Maybe he just missed it.
Like with any +/-, I am sure the - is actually common, which is why tapping still works, but you are banking on the AEM not needing to alter the negative signals to the ECU. I would change the wiring instructions to intercept these signals instead of tapping them. It's only two more solders, well worth the extra safety.
You really have to spend some time with the wiring diagram before any of this makes sense. It was really nice of AEM to put labels on all the wires.
Ricktalife
Member
- :
- 2012 Subaru WRX
Yea I intercepted the cam and crank sensor wires. I went to radio shack over my lunch break and bought a couple different resistors. I couldn't find a 1.2k which didn't surprise me, but I bought a pack of 1.0k's and a pack of 1.5k's. Does the resistance have to be exactly 1.2k or would more/less be sufficient?
Yeah, thats good, I was wondering if you doing it with a stock motor. What size injectors do you run? afr?......Sorry I am looking to build and I really want to believe that the AEM FIC will handle what I need.
Sorry. The injectors I'm running are the STI pinks. I believe they're 560cc or 580cc. Not 100% sure. As the car sits right now it's making 200hp at 6 psi. ( still can't figure out exactly why I cant bring it up. ) I have the dyno sheet in the car. I'll grab it sometime this week. The only other issue I'm having right now is the fact that I'm running rich. I'll be crusing at 50km/h And hit 10.0 :s. So that's something I have to look into. Any info you guys might have let me know.
Yea I intercepted the cam and crank sensor wires. I went to radio shack over my lunch break and bought a couple different resistors. I couldn't find a 1.2k which didn't surprise me, but I bought a pack of 1.0k's and a pack of 1.5k's. Does the resistance have to be exactly 1.2k or would more/less be sufficient?
No it doesn't have to be exact, what you are doing is splitting the currrent and sending some of it to ground, lowering the voltage that the AEM sees. The AEM is a 0-5V device and our MAF is sending voltage out of range. By splitting to ground, you will reduce the voltage by a ratio of the total resistance over the resistance to ground. Maybe I'll draw up a diagram after I get my multimeter on these signals and verify what I've read.
As long as you lower it so that your max reading is lower than 5V, you can then tune accordingly. If your resistance is different than mine, we probably won't be able to share maps depending on what values are stored in the maps, but I can't say for sure as I haven't even looked at the software yet.
Ricktalife
Member
- :
- 2012 Subaru WRX
Okay thanks for the info. So I guess I would be safer going with the 1.5k then. I wish I had not connected this wire, cause I think tuning through the injectors will probably work better.
Ricktalife
Member
- :
- 2012 Subaru WRX
Makes me wish the MSP could swap to a different MAF, or just get rid of it altogether............or wait.....the AEM FIC can do this right, simulate a MAF using a MAP sensor?
I am still learning the software, but I do believe that is the case. There are several different maps you can use for a/f tuning. I discovered a batch of instructional videos for the FIC on youtube, the AEMpowerTV channel. I will make a link for it on the first post.
Similar threads
- Replies
- 6
- Views
- 1K
