Intermittent brake pedal vibration

D

doctorz

Member
:
'06 Mazda5 Sport MT, '09 Honda Fit Sport MT
Currently on 3,000 mile trip with the 5, so spending a lot of time behind the wheel. From highway speeds, when applying moderate to significant pressure on brake pedal, I get a vibration. Sometimes it's pretty significant and shakes outright. It does not happen under 50 mph, with light pressure, or even consistently with heavier application.

I know it could be the rotors. Or could it just be the ABS being overly sensitive, because it's not consistent and doesn't happen at lower speeds? The car has 53K on it, and the dealer gave the car a once-over before we left. (They found a leaking motor mount #3, but that's another story.)
 
Slightly warped rotors. That's when you'll feel it first, over 50 mph. No big deal unless the removed irritation is worth the cash to replace them. If you don't feel it around town I wouldn't mess with it. You could always take the rotors off and give them a good sanding with a light grade paper. Sometimes you'll get morons who don't bed new pads on new rotors and there's a glaze that you can just sand off. My Focus had that when it was brand new, in fact it still vibrates at higher speeds, even after sanding, and it's a new car still IMO. I bought EBC rotors that I've bought for other cars to replace the stock rotors with as soon as I get around to buying new pads to go with the new rotors.
 
It's definitely not the ABS. When the ABS kicks in it feels completely different, a bit like a metalic clicking noise and feel. you have warped rotors. I had them and just finally replaced the original front pads and rotors (at 126k no less!!) one of the good things (and bad things) with the 5 is that when it's time to replace the pads, its generally time to replace the rotors too!!
 
thanks guys. I haven't mentioned it to the dealer because I haven't felt like outlaying the cash for resurfacing, but I may inquire next time. It's really just a minor irritation, though.
 
5zoom said:
I had the same problem and a turning the rotors mostly cured the problem.
Click to expand...

Turning the rotors properly, to avoid runout, is not cheap and the thinner rotors will just allow them to warp more rapidly. If you look at the life of the vehicle, you will pay more in labor turning rotors than just replacing them with a high-quality aftermarket rotor, like EBC. Plus, you stay away from stealers. That's my opinion.
 
flcruising said:
O'reilly auto here turns rotors for $12-15 apiece. You can turn most rotors at least once before there's not enough material left. I would not replace pads without turning rotors or vice-versa.

Here's more information than most care to know - http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml
Click to expand...

And that is the exact process that I'm telling you guys is not advised on anything but old, old cars. To turn rotors properly and avoid runout, the lathe is attached to the hub on the car. You will notice that turning rotors where you take the rotor off and drop it off at O'Reilly does not last long. To each his own I guess. I just don't waste my time on those rotor jobs anymore.
 
Also have the problem. Mega warped. I'm betting they warped from being exposed to cold runoff in our washes last winter. So, who is this EBC?
 
I've never had a problem with "off of the car" turned rotors. There is no way that vehicle manufacturers go through a bolt-on rotor turning on the assembly line. If you replace pads at the same time you turn or replace rotors, my experience is the brakes last 10's of thousands of miles just like from the factory. I'm only on my second set of front brake pads with original rotors (turned of course) on my daily driver with 212k miles and experience no pedal vibration (runout). And believe me, this car has been driven hard almost from day 1 nearly 9 years ago.
If you consistently experience runout, then you need to closely inspect the hub surface and wheel bearing play and/or preload.
 
^^ Visit an MX3 forum for five minutes and you'll quickly see what I'm talking about. I learned the hard way. BTW, rotors are made on a lathe, not while bolted on the car. LOL Just messing with ya.
 
Overtorquing the wheel lugs is almost as common a cause of warped rotors as exterme heat cycles. Look for a shop that uses a torque wrench to tighten the lugs.
 
Since the rotors are only held to the hub via the lug nuts, as soon as the wheel is removed from the car, the rotor is loose. The act of placing the wheel back on the hub/rotor can cause the loose rotor to pivot/rock on the studs, which can allow debris to fall between the rotor hat and hub. However if this was the case, you would notice the problem immediately after wheel was serviced.

If the lug nut torque is the culprit, it tends to take a little bit longer to show up. Your best bet is to loosen, and re-torque the nuts to specs. Not to mention spanking the last mechanic that tightened your nuts!(spank)
 
Robotaz said:
^^ Visit an MX3 forum for five minutes and you'll quickly see what I'm talking about. I learned the hard way. BTW, rotors are made on a lathe, not while bolted on the car. LOL Just messing with ya.
Click to expand...

My point was that if brake alignment were the issue, then the assembly would not just be bolted together at the factory just like when a normal brake job is done. There are always manufacturing tolerances. If modern rotors were not meant to be turned, then automakers wouldn't release minimum thickness measurements. If people are consistently having runout issues, then there are either hub/bearing issues, or they need to try 'breaking in' their brakes. That's all explained in my first post's link.
 
flcruising said:
My point was that if brake alignment were the issue, then the assembly would not just be bolted together at the factory just like when a normal brake job is done. There are always manufacturing tolerances. If modern rotors were not meant to be turned, then automakers wouldn't release minimum thickness measurements. If people are consistently having runout issues, then there are either hub/bearing issues, or they need to try 'breaking in' their brakes. That's all explained in my first post's link.
Click to expand...

Minimum thickness tolerances are usually what you would wear down after 50,000 miles or so. Right?
 
KBrian said:
Overtorquing the wheel lugs is almost as common a cause of warped rotors as exterme heat cycles. Look for a shop that uses a torque wrench to tighten the lugs.
Click to expand...

+1 you couldbuy one for aslittle as $35

I just recently changed to crossed drilled rotorsand ceramic pads for as little as $200 CAD installed it myself. If you are doing it yourself definitely go for turning the rotors. I dont know any shop that turns rotors cheaper than what i got the rotors and pads for.
 
Please log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

R
Abnormal vibration and problem with brakes
Replies
7
Views
2K
negusm
N
R
Accessory ports are intermittently cutting power
Replies
2
Views
997
rednakes
R
I
Brakes, bleeding gone wrong, questions
Replies
1
Views
2K
turbonium959
T

Latest posts

Back