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Thread: Battery Light Flashing

  1. #1
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    Battery Light Flashing

    Can't my car just have normal problems? 2006 Mazda3 5 spd manual.

    CEL light was on and off for a month or so, finally got the code pulled at Autozone, basically said it was my air intake sensor/air input running too rich. I have a cold air intake that was put in about 2 years ago by my boyfriend (he rebuilt a Porsche engine, knows what he's doing under the hood, etc.).

    He pulled out the filter and cleaned it, tightened the hose clamp, and had me start it. It stalled the first time, and started fine the second time.

    Now my battery light flashes occasionally and randomly. For instance, work is 30 minutes away. I may drive 5 or 6 minutes before the first flash, and then another 10 before the second flash. It's only a flash, though. Then it might blink twice really quick, then maybe not at all for the rest of the drive. No power loss, no low idling, it never flashes while I'm idling. It most often happens while shifting, but sometimes while just cruising at a steady speed. It happens in all gears.

    WTF is wrong with my car? I'm pulling out the battery tomorrow and testing it, but if the battery was dead, wouldn't it well, you know, die?

  2. #2
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    2008 Mazda 3i 4 dr Touring Value Edition

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    Have the alternator checked. Although the light is labeled battery it comes on
    when there is an alternator problem.

    Clifton

  3. #3
    Registered Member mjstew's Avatar


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    the battery light usually indicates the entire charging system. that includes the battery as well as the alternator. check your serpentine belt, make sure its not slipping. you can see if thats the issue if you see the light coming on when the a/c is on, or maybe when you're turning.

  4. #4
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    I actually found a wire in the harness running to my air intake that was partially severed. A little solder, and things are better! Hooray!

  5. #5
    Munch Man! aka Ray MonchieM3S's Avatar

    Mazda 3 S

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    Quote Originally Posted by bahamutangel View Post
    I actually found a wire in the harness running to my air intake that was partially severed. A little solder, and things are better! Hooray!
    which colored wire?

    mine was the black one, and man.. it idle'd rough and died at stop lights. lol.

    glad you found what was wrong with it though!

  6. #6
    244whp @ 8.5psi cali_axela's Avatar

    05 Mazda3

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    This is a really common problem -- did you extend the wires when you re-soldered them? If not, it's going to happen again eventually. The engine torques surprisingly far when you rev it, and the MAF harness wires don't have enough slack so they get pulled when this happens, and eventually come loose from the sensor or break, as you discovered. Add in another 6" or so of wire to prevent it from recurring.

  7. #7
    1211 HLF TRUE's Avatar

    2004 Mazda 3 Sport

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    Quote Originally Posted by bahamutangel View Post
    Can't my car just have normal problems? 2006 Mazda3 5 spd manual.

    CEL light was on and off for a month or so, finally got the code pulled at Autozone, basically said it was my air intake sensor/air input running too rich. I have a cold air intake that was put in about 2 years ago by my boyfriend (he rebuilt a Porsche engine, knows what he's doing under the hood, etc.).

    He pulled out the filter and cleaned it, tightened the hose clamp, and had me start it. It stalled the first time, and started fine the second time.

    Now my battery light flashes occasionally and randomly. For instance, work is 30 minutes away. I may drive 5 or 6 minutes before the first flash, and then another 10 before the second flash. It's only a flash, though. Then it might blink twice really quick, then maybe not at all for the rest of the drive. No power loss, no low idling, it never flashes while I'm idling. It most often happens while shifting, but sometimes while just cruising at a steady speed. It happens in all gears.

    WTF is wrong with my car? I'm pulling out the battery tomorrow and testing it, but if the battery was dead, wouldn't it well, you know, die?
    im currently having the EXACT same problem in my 2004 Mazda 3 (2.3, nonspeed) i checked my MAF wires and none of them appeared to be severed, i cut the sheath all the way to the BIG hose that contains the wires and there was nothin that looked severed, how far back or in was your wires severed on your maf? i know this is an old post sorry! any input helps!

    The voltage on the battery was 12.3 which was good (i think) and with the car ON the alternator voltage ran about 13.4ish and under load it was 12.9 (i belive that is good to)

    please respond!
    Last edited by TRUE; 08-18-2010 at 02:46 PM.

  8. #8
    1211 HLF TRUE's Avatar

    2004 Mazda 3 Sport

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    bump!!!

  9. #9
    25ish_psi shane02pro5's Avatar


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    IAT sensor can cause the same cel and batt light check those too.
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    FS P5 Rad, P5 OEM Intake , P5 Fans http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showt...hp?t=123768336


  10. #10
    1211 HLF TRUE's Avatar

    2004 Mazda 3 Sport

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    thanks where/what is the IAT sensor?

  11. #11
    1211 HLF TRUE's Avatar

    2004 Mazda 3 Sport

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    is it connected to the maf?

  12. #12
    25ish_psi shane02pro5's Avatar


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    Not sure on the 3 but it should be close to the maf just a probe with 2 wires typically in a grommet in the intake piping.
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  13. #13
    1211 HLF TRUE's Avatar

    2004 Mazda 3 Sport

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    ill look again, but it appears to be okay! getting price checks on alternators right now! autozone said they can test alternators, but would i have to pull it off the car first to get tested?

  14. #14
    25ish_psi shane02pro5's Avatar


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    The IAT sensor looks like it bolts up to a flange with 2 screw. I looked at protegegarage's site under 3 intakes since it would relocate to that pipe.
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  15. #15
    1211 HLF TRUE's Avatar

    2004 Mazda 3 Sport

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    hey i made a new post about my issue, thanks for ur help btw! lemme go look real quick!

    http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showt...hp?t=123782590

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