Design's Long Term Ownership/Build Thread

Updated 3/6/15 @ 139K:
- Oil consumption issue
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...Build-Thread&p=6364761&viewfull=1#post6364761

Updated 12/1/14 @ 133K:
- Michelin AS/3 Update
- KW Coilover Update
- Ambient Temp Issue
- Oil Cooler Issue
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...Build-Thread&p=6345786&viewfull=1#post6345786

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Updated 5/21/14 @ 120K:
- Maintenance
- Audio and Android Integration
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...Build-Thread&p=6296924&viewfull=1#post6296924


Updated 8/30/13 @ 103K:
- AC Compressor issue
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...Build-Thread&p=6210544&viewfull=1#post6210544

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Updated 1/25/13 @ 89K:
- Maintenance
- Tires
- Bose Upgrade

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...Build-Thread&p=6103845&viewfull=1#post6103845

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Updated 12/20/10 @ 45K:
- MSCAI Filter Cleaning (complete with near-disaster)
- Corksport Inserts
- H&R Coilover Update
- Hankook Ventus V12 Evo Update

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...Build-Thread&p=5540419&viewfull=1#post5540419


Updated 8/20/10 @ 37K:
- Powergrid Adjustable Endlinks
- CPE Rear Motor Mount

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showpost.php?p=5412645&postcount=18

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Updated 7/5/10 @ 33K:
- H&R Coilovers - the good and the bad
- Cabin Air Filter
- Hankook Ventus V12 Evo K110 Tires

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showpost.php?p=5342597&postcount=16

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Model: 2009 CWP MS3 GT, purchased Jan 2009
Current mileage: 24,875
Mods:
-Rear bumper guards
-Wheel locks
-Ventureshield Clear Bra
-OEM iPod integration unit
-MSCAI



Premise

After seeing so many questions raised about MS3 reliability & maintenance, I thought I'd start a running log regarding my ownership of the MS3. I will update this thread every so often - kind of like a blog I guess - to give others an idea of your typical ownership experience. Unlike many, I plan to keep this car until the wheels fall off or family priorities dictate otherwise. Hope this proves useful to prospective buyers and fellow owners.




Maintenance/Reliability

After owning this car a year I can say it's been a worry-free DD. I've only had one warranty claim for the squeaky seat belt bolts. Beyond that, a few minor ticks/rattles from the console due to the nearly worn Bridgestone RE50's. Front passenger carpet separates from the plastic trim over time as people enter/exit the car. Also have an intermittent tick from the engine bay which only appears at certain RPMs. If I can isolate the noise, I'll probably have the dealer take a look. All of these things are more annoying than an actual problem.

Senior tech at the dealer (Tuttle Click Mazda of Irvine) seems to know his stuff and is always open to share his views on what goes wrong on these cars. Ironically, he sees very few Speeds in for warranty work, whether approved or denied. Biggest issue has been the HU, which was sourced through a new vendor starting in 08.5. Beyond that, one or two turbos from earlier models, a seized belt buckle, and a few other minor odds & ends.

I have the oil changed every 3,700 miles using whatever run-of-the-mill brand was chosen by the dealer. Get charged $26.00 for oil, rotation (every 7500), and basic inspection. Car is treated with respect around the service bay. Service Manager is a down to earth guy. Their stand on warranty claims is like most other Service Managers I've spoken with; change the oil and filters at the designated intervals and you're fine. They don't really pay attention to aftermarket parts unless they're excessive or a failure appears to be connected to a mod.


Mods

The clear bra was installed 7 days after getting the car and has been one of the best investments to date. I get a little dirt around the edges but nothing that can't be cleaned with a toothpick. Lifetime warranty on materials/installation, and the installer has offered to come back anytime to touch up the film as needed. I've had a few nasty high speed impacts, but the film has remained resillient. One small puncture about 1" wide from a sharp object at 70 mph. Everything else has buffed out with some clear wax and a little pressure.

Rear scuff guards were purchased in January 09 and have saved my butt more than once taking things in and out of the hatch. OEM iPod interface was purchased in March 09. It works well, though it sometimes shows a mismatch on the text display between the displayed artist/song and what is actually playing. Only happens when I hit the RDM function. MSCAI was purchased in May 09 and added 27 HP at the hubs (as measured by a Dynapack). As many others have said, car holds power all the way to 6K. I've had a couple issues with fuel cut/hesitation, but they are few and far between. I run the air straightener at a 45* angle as recommended by Mazda.


Driving Experience

Overall, this car is just as fun now as it was the first day I got it. I am slightly annoyed by the front end float, underdamped rear suspension, non-linear clutch engagement, and somewhat mysterious shifter at WOT. First two problems will be fixed next month with a decent coilover suspension. I might eventually replace the tranny mount like many others have done, but for now the vague shifts at WOT are liveable.

Car is predictable in the turns, though a bit unsettling at its limits. I suspect some of this has to do with the design of the rear suspension. The rear bump stops are apparently progressive and help to simulate a rapid increase in spring rate. So the initial contact with the stopper is very soft, but rapidly becomes stiff as you apply more pressure. So if you're on the stopper in a hard corner and hit a small bump, you'll get some unexpected wheel hop. I suspect with better rear dampers the car would react better to this type of condition. Wife feels the stock suspension is slightly annoying, but liveabe.

Everyone who has ridden in this car has commented on the interior design/quality. Alecantra trim is holding up well with no signs of premature wear. Seats are well bolstered yet surprisingly comfy - even on 8+ hour trips. Car is great for hauling just about anything, from groceries to flat screen TV's. Exhaust note is pronounced but not overpowering IMO.

Bose system is not horrible, but not great either. Highs and lows are puposely cut by the signal processor (I suspect to promote longer speaker life). CD changer works great, though a bit slow with MP3's. The Aux input restricts the signal somewhat which is one of the reasons I got the iPod adapter. Unlike some, my auto wipers work fine. I have sensitivity set in the middle.


That's it for now. Next update will be after I install the coilovers. Thanks for reading!

Good stuff!!! Thanks for posting.

ill sub for this.Good idea for sure. I should have started one of these about 1 1/2 years ago. Ive forgotton the cars natural goodness all together now A log would have been nice to keep

Having a great stereo is a must for me keeping this car long term. I want to get no fewer than 5 years out of it. The blose HU is a great starting point (though I agree it is slow to play MP3s) and realistically you could just replace it with a decent 5-channel amp, keep the stock speakers, and 95% of people would love it to death. I've gone far past that, but the deck is staying in my dash. When I'm done completely I'll be running upgrade speakers, amp and sub, plus obsessively deadened doors.

My Mazda 6 was a horrid rattle trap. This car hasn't been nearly as bad, though the windshield cowl is pretty crazy. Warm weather, save me! I might go buck wild and sound deaden the entire car, but I haven't decided if I want to invest the time and money. Stereo can drown out most rattles anyway.

I'm setting up for some driveability mods, like RMM and short shift plate. I hate missing shifts, hate hate hate it when that happens. The Potenzas will be replaced by some good all-seasons after this summer ends (maybe Pirelli's).

Good sound, good comfort, good power... that's what I'm after for keeping this ride long-term.

Almost makes me want to do the same thing about my car..... I've got loads of plans

Nice write up! keep it going now and then.

Great report. Thanks for sharing.

I got those same rear bumper guards a couple months after taking delivery, too although not shown in my sig. My speed dealer was a hour and a half away, but I found that the regular Mazda 3 hatch guards are the same part number as ours and picked them up from a "regular" Mazda dealer in my home town.

I agree that the guards are a really nice, practical and inexpensive way to protect the top of the rear bumper when taking stuff in and out of the back of the car. And they look good too.

I don't know why the car does not come with the MSCAI as standard equipment. It's amazing the transformation and power from that simple mod alone and still have full warranty. But other mods I've since made to the car took it out of engine warranty anyway. lol.

What tires are you considering, or have you begun thinking about it? Will follow your continuing log here. Thanks.

Hancook Ventus Evo 12's seem to be the tire of choice among the community. Also considering General Exclaim UHP's. I thought about doing 225/45/18's, but the more I read about them the more I'm convinced they'll rub with the H&R coilovers I'm getting. I like the Dunlop Dirreza Star Specs, but for the price I'd never use them to their full potential.

Good write up...Looks like you are doing similar mileage. I have an 09 currently with 25k miles. She will be a year old in May....I agree about the suspension. I just got a set of Koni FSD's to be intalled next week. Tire Rack has them for only $550. From what others are saying, the FSD's transform the car......I am one of the few not having complaint with the shifting. Mine is smooth and precise. In fact, it is a joy to row the gears. I don't find my clutch vague, rather, it is very linear and compliments the shifting very well. My only issues are annoyances like rattles from the dash and a creeky windshield when really cold. I also get the loud suspension bushings when really cold out. Other than that I am very pleased. I get bored of cars pretty quick and this one is keeping my interests. I could not say the same for my Mini Cooper S.

To improve the car at it's limits, get at least a rear sway bar upgrade. If you want to reduce bump steer and have better turn-in and less roll, get both front and rear sway bars. Hotchkis set works for me. With the coilovers, it would be awesome.

I've considered ARB's but this car is not a track rat. I'm more concerned with DD functionality without sacrificing the performance already inherent with this platform. Stock ARB's allow just enough chassis flex to remain comfortable over moderate deviations in the road. We'll see... perhaps my car budget will allow another suspension upgrade.

cudaman said:

To improve the car at it's limits, get at least a rear sway bar upgrade. If you want to reduce bump steer and have better turn-in and less roll, get both front and rear sway bars. Hotchkis set works for me. With the coilovers, it would be awesome.

Click to expand...

I'm thinking Hotchkis bars, Bilstein HDs, and stock springs. I'm hoping to make the sled a little more enjoyable on both street and track...

Design said:

Click to expand...

Where are you from? That looks like it was taken in Provo canyon in Utah...

That was taken at Mt Baldy off Glendora Ridge Road in So Cal.

GRRRREAT writeup. Subbing. (thumb)

Update @ 33K:


H&R Coilovers

Got a used set of H&R coilovers installed along with the SPC rear camber kit. It's a great suspension with a smooth and controlled ride. But unfortunately they are for the MZ3 variant. Hence, the front sits a little too low and makes a bit more contact with the bump stops than I'd like. I suspect this won't be an issue once the MS3 version is available (currently on backorder). Rears feel slightly overdamped. But that's expected with a sport shock setup. For the price, they are a quality setup. Can't really recommend them yet until the replacements are installed. But here's a quick list of impressions so far:

Likes:
- Install friendly. No drilling or custom fabrication required. You reuse all the stock components except the front bump stops. That makes the system especially quiet.
- Bilstein dampers. Enough said.
- Diminished front end float.
- Progressive coils. This makes the ride a bit more compliant than linear coilover systems. I can't fully comment on the ride quality due to the limited suspension travel, but it feels slightly stiffer than Pro-Kit springs. H&R advertises 7K F (P) and 3K R (P).
- Inverted front struts. These have slightly more free travel than comparable struts with an external bump stop. Also, due to the inverted design, the threaded coilover rings sit higher on the strut body and allow for a greater adjustment range. See link below:
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/1259/1341/3145670234_large.jpg

Dislikes:
- Front brake line brackets. They are too small for the MS3 brake lines. However, they can be separated and made to fit with basic tools.
- Front end link brackets. They are about 1" too high on the strut body. This causes the sway bar to operate outside its intended range, causing some noise from the sway bar bushings. I believe this can be fixed with 1" longer end links.
- Rear adjustable perch mounts. They are inverted and difficult to access. To adjust, you may be required to disassemble the rear spring assembly and extract the perch.

Camber Kit
Now, about the SPC camber kit. It's a quality piece of engineering, but they are a PAIN to install. Why? The rear arms are in the way of just about everything. To replace, you technically have to disassemble the rear subframe to remove the EVAP PUMP which in turn provides enough clearance to remove the rear arm's bolt. Fortunately there's an alternative:

- mazda3 forums.com/index.php?topic=45357.0

Adjustment isn't too bad. You have to unbolt the rear arm from the brake assembly and turn the bolt accordingly. Might have to do this a few times in order to fine tune your settings.


Maintenance

I was able to get 29K out of the stock RE50's. Replaced them with Hankook Ventus V12 Evo K110 in the stock size. First impression; they are not as quiet nor as sticky as the Bridgestones. But for 130.00 per corner, they are an excellent tire. I've put on 4K already and they still grip well, are fairly quiet, and are wearing evenly. Highly recommended as long as you don't drive in the snow.

I replaced the cabin filter at 30K as recommended by Mazda. As many have said, it's a pain in the tail to access. But this VIDEO made it much less painful. The tutorial is spot on. But since you are disconnecting the fuse box I'd also recommend disconnecting the negative battery cable.

I've had no other issues besides the noise from my front sway bar bushings. Still change the oil at the dealer every 3.7K. Brake/tranny/PS fluids are all in good shape. Will probably replace them at 45-60K despite Mazda's claims of "lifetime" fluids. Interior is still holding up well. And I still average 22-26 MPGs with mixed driving.


Driving Impressions

Is it still fun? Absolutely. Despite some choppy road manners, the coilovers have really transformed this car's agility. Twistys are more rewarding, acceleration is more controlled, and the ride overall is more connected. Still love the whistle of the intake and catching people off guard at WOT. Still find excuses to take the family somewhere, anywhere.

Future plans include the sound system and wheels sometime early next year. Next update will be when the coilovers are replaced. Thanks for looking!

i'll be hitting 20,000 miles literally today or tomorrow. primary maintenance is oil and tire rotation every 5,000 miles.

issues so far:

seat belt squeak, which i'm going to wait till it's colder to get fixed, because it's more prominent in cold weather

gas cap not coming off. also a known issue.

"chirp" every 10-15 seconds when I play MP3's through the stereo. It is definitely an HU defect, but I don't know if I will get warranty work for it because I've gutted the blose mp and speakers for aftermarket stuff. I suppose I should still try, since I really haven't touched the deck at all.

I'm hoping to get 25000 out of the Potenzas... we'll see.

As for the stereo... don't read this thread. It's embarrassing.

Update @ 37K:


Powergrid Endlinks

Took last weekend and installed a few parts I had laying around. First, the endlinks. Ever since I dropped the car on H&R coils the steering had become a bit numb. I was also getting a bit of noise as I would turn the wheel left or right. After talking with a few suspension gurus it was identified that the stock endlinks were causing the front sway bar to bind slightly.

As it was explained to me, the lower you drop the car the lower the front bar sits towards the ground. To compensate, you either need lower endlink brackets on the strut or longer endlinks. I opted for longer endlinks since H&R uses endlink brackets comparable to OEM. Here's a pic of the struts for comparison; OEM is on the bottom:
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/1259/1341/3145670249_large.jpg

I specifically chose Powergrid for a couple of reasons. First, the endlinks are sealed like OEM, making them less susceptible to the elements (and associated noise). Second, Saitek - a member on M3F - was running a group buy for custom length endlinks. After a few measurements I opted for a 1" longer version. Few pics below:
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/1259/1349/3145674001_large.jpg
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/1259/1349/3145674002_large.jpg
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/1259/1349/3145674004_large.jpg
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/1259/1349/3145674005_large.jpg

The verdict? WOW. The car is once again nimble and reacts crisply to every input from the wheel. Turn-in is much more responsive. And all noises associated with the sway bar are now gone. Highly recommended.


CPE Rear Motor Mount

Now onto the motor mount. I had my choices narrowed down to Corksport and CPE. I elected to go with CPE because of the single piece design and testimonies from other users. IIRC, CPE makes three versions of the mount with varying levels of stiffness. There's a 60, 75, and 90 durometer. I went with the OTS version which is 75 duro. Quality and design are first rate. Beautiful piece of equipment:
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/1259/1349/3145674003_large.jpg

So how is it after 450 miles? STIFF. That's both a good thing and a bad thing. I love the performance. Love the crisp 1-2 & 2-3 shifts @ WOT. Love the wheels being planted to the ground. But I hate, HATE the vibes. Being a solid mount, you're going to hear and feel the buzzing of the motor at all RPM's. And at lower revs it resonates throughout the cabin - especially at around 900 RPM's with the AC on. Taking off from a stop occasionally feels like the flywheel is chattering. Someone else said it best; at idle it feels like a vibrating Lazy Boy on the lowest setting.

So why is my own assessment at odds with almost every other review? Well, when you do a majority of your driving with a wife and daughter blasting the AC in stop & go traffic, the vibes can get annoying quick. I've heard a few members complain about various RMM's in these types of driving conditions, so I know it's more a matter of circumstance than personal preference.

Overall I'd recommend this mount to anyone who's focused strictly on performance. It does exactly what it advertises. But if your MS3 is a DD, you might want to take a ride with someone who's already running this or a similar RMM. I know there's some additional break-in that will occur, but I unless it's drastic I expect to pawn off this mount to someone who'll use it to its full potential.



That's it for now. Thanks for looking!

Thanks for the write-up. I too are lowered on H&R and have some front-end noise that I suspect are from tension on the arb. You know where I can pickup a set? Or are these custom order? Also, did you get alignment after the new end links?

Saitek is running a group buy on M3F and can get you a set for around $150. I'd recommend getting a custom set that's equivalent to OEM or slightly longer. You can reposition the sway bar to account for up to a 1.5" drop. Beyond that you'll run into clearance issues with the lower control arm.