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Thread: Sliding Door Lock Actuator Replacement

  1. #1
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    Mazda5

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    Sliding Door Lock Actuator Replacement

    This is a writeup about replacing the lock actuator on the passenger-side sliding door. When the powered lock started failing, it would require a couple presses of the remote to unlock the door. After a while, the actuator could only move the lock lever halfway. I could not lock or unlock the door remotely.

    DISCLAIMER: I am not responsible if you break something or hurt yourself while performing this procedure.

    Parts:
    C23572350 - Passenger Side Actuator
    C23573350 - Driver Side Actuator
    Each actuator retails for about $56, but you can find it online for $40 or less.

    Tools:
    Philips Screwdriver (I recommend a 6-in-1 screwdriver)
    10mm Socket with extension
    Grease and Paper Towel (for cleaning)

    P1010939.JPG

    If you have experience working with interior body panels, the whole process takes about 30 minutes and is fairly easy. The lock components have a lot of grease so have something handy to keep yourself clean.

    Step 1

    P1010915.JPG
    Open the sliding door halfway. Pull out the cover by the window.

    Step 2

    P1010918.JPG
    Next, remove the cover surrounding the handle. Make sure the lock lever is in the locked position. Otherwise, the lever will be in the way. Start pulling out the cover on the lower right side. The cover should pop off fairly easily. Do not pull too hard, the window regulator wire is connected.

    Step 3

    P1010919.JPG
    Here is the cover off. You can see the window regulator wiring. Pull out the window regulator wiring connector. Press on the connector tab and pull. Also remove the cable guide attached to the inside of the door panel.

    Step 4

    leverscrews.jpg
    Unscrew the two philips-heads circled in red
    Last edited by a10thunder; 01-11-2011 at 11:59 AM. Reason: Updated with inline image

  2. #2
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    Mazda5

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    Step 5

    P1010923.JPG
    Now you're ready to remove the main door panel. There are two holes on the bottom where you can get your hand inside the panel and pull outward. Start on the bottom and work your way counterclockwise. The top of the panel drops into the window sill. Once the panel is free, lift the entire panel up to free it from the door frame.

    Step 6

    cablenconn.jpg
    Unplug the 2 connectors on the actuator. Free the two cables from the cable guides.

    Step 7

    lockleverrod.jpg
    Disconnect the lever connecting the lock lever to the actuator. Pop out the lever from the holder in the green square.

    Step 8

    LockMech.jpg
    Remove the door handle/lock lever by unscrewing the 2 bolts and 2 screws marked in red circles. Ignore the blue circles for now.

    Step 9
    With the door handle removed, refer to the Step 8 picture again. Unscrew the 2 philips-heads and one bolt holding the metal frame (blue circles).

    Step 10

    actuator.jpg
    Now pull off the metal frame. You will not be able to completely take it out because there are cables attached to frame, but you will be able to get access to the screw holding the actuator in place. Uncrew the philips-head in red circle. You can now remove the actuator.
    Last edited by a10thunder; 01-11-2011 at 12:01 PM.

  3. #3
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    Mazda5

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    Step 11

    2acts.jpg
    Transfer the plastic lever holder from the old actuator to the new one. Apply grease to the new actuator's exposed moving parts.

    Step 12

    actloc.jpg
    Install the new actuator onto the lock frame. Make sure the actuator arm goes inside the U-shaped bracket. This is the connection that locks the door to the car's frame.

    Step 13
    Refer to the picture in Step 8. Place lock frame back in its original location and do the blue-circles (2 philips-heads, 1 bolt).

    Step 14
    Place the door handle back in its original location and do the red circles in Step 8 (2 philips-heads, 2 bolts).

    Step 15
    Reverse of Step 7, place the lever back in the plastic holder on the actuator.

    Step 16
    Reverse of Step 6, reconnect the 2 connectors for the actuator. Place the 2 cables back in the cable guides. At this point, you may want to test out the installation. Try locking and unlocking the door with your remote.

    Step 17
    Put back the main door panel. Start by dropping the top of the panel into the window sill. Then push on the panel until it is securely attached to the door frame.

    Step 18
    Reverse of Step 4. Screw on the 2 philips-heads.

    Step 19
    Reverse of Step 3. Take the door handle cover, put back the cable guide for the window regulator wire. Reconnect the window regulator wire on the back of the door handle cover. Place the cover back on the door

    Step 20
    Reverse of Step 1. Put back the cover by the window.
    Last edited by a10thunder; 01-11-2011 at 12:02 PM.

  4. #4
    Registered Member SGT_OKINAWA's Avatar

    2010 Mazda CX-7

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    Smile

    Great write up A10thunder.

    Thanks for share!

    peace!

  5. #5
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    Thank you very much! Both of them on my 2006 are been not working for months... this will be my project after the new year. Thanks!

    2006 Mazda5 Touring MT.

    35w 6000k HID headlights
    55w 6000k HID Fog lights
    Blue LED interior lights
    Tinted Windows
    Tinted Taillights
    B-Quiet all floor and both sides
    7" Double Din Touch Screen DVD player, 2 x 9" headrest LCDs , Polk 5x7 speakers
    Stainless braided brake line
    X-drilled brake rotors
    EBC Green stuff brake pads
    COBB Mazdaspeed3 Sway Bars Set
    EXEDY STAGE 1 ORGANIC CLUTCH
    EXEDY 13LB FLYWHEEL
    Topspeed passenger side engine mount
    Medieval Motorsports rear engine mount

    Coming in the future:

    Light weight crank pulley
    Coil-over
    18" Wheels
    Turbo

  6. #6
    The sharkfin is in


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    FYI if you have the factory alarm, the part numbers listed above are inccorrect.

    they should be:
    C24572350 - Passenger Side Actuator
    C24573350 - Driver Side Actuator
    Mods
    ------------
    Sharkfin Antenna
    Custom 8" sub enclosure
    HID's

  7. #7
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    Mazda 5 GT

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    I saw a 2010 Mazda5 GS on display at the dealership. It does not have the siding door 'lock assist' feature. One has to actually 'slam the sliding door' to close it. I'm thinking like
    ewww! I'm not going to have a sliding door without the lock assist feature. It's just too
    violent for the door to be slamming the pillar all the time. I hope mazda is not thinking of getting rid of the feature in its future mazda5's.

  8. #8
    The sharkfin is in


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    Quote Originally Posted by skyhawk View Post
    I saw a 2010 Mazda5 GS on display at the dealership. It does not have the siding door 'lock assist' feature. One has to actually 'slam the sliding door' to close it. I'm thinking like
    ewww! I'm not going to have a sliding door without the lock assist feature. It's just too
    violent for the door to be slamming the pillar all the time. I hope mazda is not thinking of getting rid of the feature in its future mazda5's.

    the slider on the 5 doesn't take much effort to close (even without the power assist!!!) You just saw the typical "minivan effect" people used to having to really push the door hard to get the caravan doors closed, not the case on the 5
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  9. #9
    Alive/well in St. Louis ljmattox's Avatar

    2010 Mazda 5 Sport 5MT

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    I'm almost to the point of putting "passenger advisory" labels in the back, what with folks thinking they need to slam the doors.

    Indeed, they are actually light/well-balanced doors and can be closed using fingertips. My in-laws, former Astro-van owners, ride with us frequently and are repeat offenders, "wham!". Hey, easy on the doors!

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by ljmattox View Post
    I'm almost to the point of putting "passenger advisory" labels in the back, what with folks thinking they need to slam the doors.

    Indeed, they are actually light/well-balanced doors and can be closed using fingertips. My in-laws, former Astro-van owners, ride with us frequently and are repeat offenders, "wham!". Hey, easy on the doors!
    lolz.. I can probably blame Mazda for causing some kind of social effects. I heard friends who think we are picky and over protective with our new MAZDA5. 'It's just a door!!' they would say. So we have come up with a solution. We open and close the sliding door for our 'uninitiated passengers'. If they ask, we say, 'sometimes it does not close well'. but eventually they get the message.

    I wonder if they can include similar 'lock assist' feature on the swing doors. That will really require behavioural change. Imagine closing the doors like you do the refrigerator doors (of today).
    Last edited by skyhawk; 06-12-2010 at 06:51 PM.

  11. #11
    Old and slow, unlike my 5 KBrian's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by skyhawk View Post
    I saw a 2010 Mazda5 GS on display at the dealership. It does not have the siding door 'lock assist' feature. One has to actually 'slam the sliding door' to close it. I hope mazda is not thinking of getting rid of the feature in its future mazda5's.
    In Canada, Mazda 5 GS models do not have the auto close feature on the rear sliding doors. Just one more reason to buy the GT.

    BTW, saw an 06/7 GT auto on the Chrysler lot tonight. No cleanup yet, so it was likely traded today. What could have taken it's place that they sell at Chrysler?



  12. #12
    Lover of 5's Robotaz's Avatar

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    My mom has a bad tendency to slam them open, if that makes any sense. Makes me cringe every time. The first time she did it she had this scowl look on her face, which was hilarious actually, but it pissed me off. I'm not sure why she finds it to be difficult, but she is very small and 67 years old.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robotaz View Post
    My mom has a bad tendency to slam them open, if that makes any sense. Makes me cringe every time. The first time she did it she had this scowl look on her face, which was hilarious actually, but it pissed me off. I'm not sure why she finds it to be difficult, but she is very small and 67 years old.
    Slamming it open may be worse. I don't hear any 'rubber damper' sound when the sliding door opens fully. Its almost like metal to metal sound.

    I think this door was originally designed to be motorized. Which requires that they be perfectlty balanced and have minimal amount of friction. Allows for a smaller motor to open/close the sliding door.

  14. #14
    The sharkfin is in


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    Quote Originally Posted by skyhawk View Post
    Slamming it open may be worse. I don't hear any 'rubber damper' sound when the sliding door opens fully. Its almost like metal to metal sound.

    I think this door was originally designed to be motorized. Which requires that they be perfectlty balanced and have minimal amount of friction. Allows for a smaller motor to open/close the sliding door.
    There is definitely a rubber bump stop, it's at the top of the door in the channel. when it dries out, it has a tendency to sqweak when the door is opened all the way! of coure it may be missing on your car if you're hearing a metal to metal sound!
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  15. #15
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    I just updated my original post so the images would be displayed inline with text. How come the How-To forum can't display multiple pages? It seems that these DIY posts disappear after a while.

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