2006 Mazda 5 Battery Type

owlcity

Member
Hi all,

I need some help here with replacing the battery for my 2006 Mazda 5.

What type of battery do I need for 2006 Mazda 5?

Thanks
 
I think I might switch to an optima battery when this one goes bad. Costco sells them.
Most places that sells batteries will have a booklet, or an online catalog that will specify the battery type for nearly every make, model and year vehicle .
 
Just to clue you in owlcity, I got my '06 with an Autozone battery in it this past Spring. And I already ham having CCA probs with a brand new batt. With the car going thru 2 batts in <4 yrs, I have been sleuthing out alternator probs. You may want to look into this as well.
 
Just to clue you in owlcity, I got my '06 with an Autozone battery in it this past Spring. And I already ham having CCA probs with a brand new batt. With the car going thru 2 batts in <4 yrs, I have been sleuthing out alternator probs. You may want to look into this as well.

YUP! -- go to the local auto repair shop (or the dealer) and have them perform a code reading / charging test and GET the print out from both, then ask how it did. If it's having charging problems, all the batteries in the world wont do any good IF the alternator is going bad.

GOOD LUCK!

Peace!(rei)
 
Your battery may not need replacing. Did you check the electrolyte level?
 
My 2nd battery from Mazda is on it's last leg, so I have been exploring the battery options available.(weakest)

The Odyssey pc1400 looks like the best battery and warranty. Price $240
The Optima Red Top Battery looks to be 2nd overall choice. Price $140
The Mazda Replacement/ above avg parts store replacement. Price $90

Being that I have gone through a battery every 2 yrs, I am looking at going with an upgrade. The Odyssey has a 4yr free replacement warranty, whereas the optima and Mazda replacement batteries are 3yr free replacement.

Does anyone have any experience with the odyssey or optima batteries?(2cents)
 
NOTE IF BUYING A NEW BATTERY:

There is a sticker on every battery (in Canada it is a law) that tells you what year/month the battery has been manufactured.

Select one that has been manufactured within the last 6 months - that will make sure that sulfatation has not occurred....
 
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Does anyone have any experience with the odyssey or optima batteries?(2cents)

I like the Optima Red Tops. Three of my cars have one installed currently. I also had one in my '98 Subaru Impreza for 8+ years, (low mileage with lots of short trips).

My 5 still has the factory battery now over 4 years w/ 22K miles.
 
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Just go to Autozone (in the US, I assume Canada too) and get their mid-level battery. Duralast Gold? I can't remember exactly, it's been a while since I've had to buy a battery, they are that good.

Speaking of good batteries, the OEM battery in my '99 Accord lasted over nine years / 90,000 miles.
 
My 2nd battery from Mazda is on it's last leg, so I have been exploring the battery options available.

The Odyssey pc1400 looks like the best battery and warranty. Price $240
The Optima Red Top Battery looks to be 2nd overall choice. Price $140
The Mazda Replacement/ above avg parts store replacement. Price $90

Being that I have gone through a battery every 2 yrs, I am looking at going with an upgrade. The Odyssey has a 4yr free replacement warranty, whereas the optima and Mazda replacement batteries are 3yr free replacement.

Does anyone have any experience with the odyssey or optima batteries?(2cents)

1. Would you throw new tires on a car and NOT get a wheel alignment?
2. Would you toss a new battery in a car and not FIRST have the electrical system checked?

Yes batteries sometimes do 'just go bad" but if you're putting batteries in there like clockwork, every two years, then there is something wrong.

IF you MUST get a battery, I'd go for the YELLOW top OPTIMA battery, the RED TOP is too much for your STOCK electrical system!

Check the stock CCA vs. the Red top CCA, see.... too much!

--------------------
I've got TWO Optima batteries and a 160+ AMP alternator powering my M5 (Premacy)

Again, what do you have in there now? ANYTHING over stock level is TOO MUCH for the stock charging system!(gah)

Good luck!
Peace!(rei)
 
IF you MUST get a battery, I'd go for the YELLOW top OPTIMA battery, the RED TOP is too much for your STOCK electrical system!

Check the stock CCA vs. the Red top CCA, see.... too much!

RED tops are starting batteries.
YELLOW tops are deep cycle batteries.

The RED top is actually preferred unless you do use the battery to run things like light and steroes without the vehicle running.

The CCA won't affect your electrical system.
 
My opinion for a deep cycle battery in a car is: NO GOOD !

The deep cycle battery does not like being recharged fast, as an alternator would (too high of a voltage). Deep cycle batteries are made to go quite low before any damage is done. But this battery HAS to be recharged ASAP - it must not stay uncharged for a medium/long period of time. You must give it a minimal charge monthly if this battery is not in use. The important number on the battery (to compare to other deep cycles) is the number of reserve minutes. This number states how many minutes this battery can run, giving a constant 25A before reaching (if I remember correctly) 10.5V

The normal lead acid battery in a car is made to pump out a lot of power, quickly and then get immediately recharged. Since it is immediately recharged, no damage is done. In this case, it is the CCA number that is important.

YOU DO NOT COMPARE A CAR BATTERY AND A DEEP CYCLE BATTERY WITH THE C.C.A.

These are the basic difference between a car battery and a deep cycle battery.

Hope it helps someone out.
 
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Just to clue you in owlcity, I got my '06 with an Autozone battery in it this past Spring. And I already ham having CCA probs with a brand new batt. With the car going thru 2 batts in <4 yrs, I have been sleuthing out alternator probs. You may want to look into this as well.

Update - batt is a Duralast - was tagged 3/07 (1 year after vehicle entered service. Autozone tested it & it came up 65% charged w/260 CCA (out of 575). They said it was bad (last time it was good) so I had them charge it anyway, after 1 hr, it came up to 75% or so and the meter declared it "good."

Anyway, this is last nite, but on Sat, the car went to Phx (200+ mi round trip) and so the batt should have been FULLY charged Sun, when it made 1 8 mi trip and Mon when it made a 10 mi round trip to work & back. But Mon afternoon, it barely had the CCAs to turn the engine over, so.....it the batt NOT accepting a charge....or....is the alt not sufficiently charging the batt? I take it out again 2nite, get a 100% charge this time & we will do a "do or die" test of the elec system - with EVERYTHING on, incl hi-beams & wipers. I want to get this resolved, as the early 5s have been killing batteries for 4 years now & if we can get some answers, maybe we can get some resolutions!
 
Just replaced the battery on my 06 with 85k miles for the first time. I went to Wal-Mart and bought the Everstart Maxx for $75. Group 35 CCA is 550. It is bigger then the stock battery in size, but fit perfect. Don't buy the standard one... that one is just a piece of shi..... I don't know what the CCA on the stock Panasonic battery is.

Very good warranty replacement program... My friend had his replaced right before the 3 yrs warranty over and cost him $0... no question will be ask as long as you have the receipt.
 
Update - batt is a Duralast - was tagged 3/07 (1 year after vehicle entered service. Autozone tested it & it came up 65% charged w/260 CCA (out of 575). They said it was bad (last time it was good) so I had them charge it anyway, after 1 hr, it came up to 75% or so and the meter declared it "good."

Anyway, this is last nite, but on Sat, the car went to Phx (200+ mi round trip) and so the batt should have been FULLY charged Sun, when it made 1 8 mi trip and Mon when it made a 10 mi round trip to work & back. But Mon afternoon, it barely had the CCAs to turn the engine over, so.....it the batt NOT accepting a charge....or....is the alt not sufficiently charging the batt? I take it out again 2nite, get a 100% charge this time & we will do a "do or die" test of the elec system - with EVERYTHING on, incl hi-beams & wipers. I want to get this resolved, as the early 5s have been killing batteries for 4 years now & if we can get some answers, maybe we can get some resolutions!

thaxman -- whoa that sounds like a lot of trouble, have you done a ground test, to see anything is grounded that MAY be causing the battery to drain overnight? Have you had the alternator checked? Have you taken it into a shop and have them perform a computer resulted electrical system test, and get the print out from them?


CCA is IMO a good way to gage the type of battery you need IF you are working on how well you want the battery to perform when starting the car and AGREE CCA is NOT a good gage to use when considering a battery for stereo, amps, disco lights, etc. etc. added to the car... there you want deep cycle type and long lasting, HOWEVER, any optima batter will work in the M5, just as long as you DON'T exceed the recommended amount for the alternator output rating.



Peace!(rei)
 
My 2007 with 34k on it has a tough time in the cold weather and if my wife hits the remote starter on a cold day and it doesn't fire we have had to jump the car. I think the stock battery CCA is not for the New England winter. (thought)

AutoZone has a Gold-Duralast / Battery Class 35 640 cold cranking Amps with an 8 year warranty for $92. Might be my next battery.
 
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