Folks,
I had a serious (mis)adventure installing the SU oil conversion kit last weekend. It's actually pretty easy, but here are some bro-tips:
1.) Ramp and chock the vehicle
2.) Drain oil as usual; have plenty of shop towels handy
3.) Put the oil plug/kwik valve back on, leave filter off
4.) Use your favorite 10mm tool and remove the four bolts holding on the "filter dongle" that sits between the oil pan and the filter - this is the part you are replacing.
5.) There is an evil hose in the way, and it is a PITA. Don't remove it - It's filled with coolant, and if you removed it, you would violently drain coolant all over yourself and your work area. Not that I would know anything about that. Just a tip
6.) Once the dongle is off, there is an interface between the oil cooling system and the coolant system that sits on top of the dongle. It is a black piece of plastic attached to the oil dongle with a 15mm bolt. Cracking this bolt can be tricky. You have no chance while the dongle is attached, and even while off and flopping around, you will need a small 3/4 ratchet to get it off. Not that bad though, just have the right tool ready.
7.) CRITICAL STEP. Once you have the dongle removed, notice the guide pinhole in the arrangement:
It's that hole just outside the fitment circle, at the 180 degree position just outside the circle. On the underside of the coolant interface is a little pin. THAT GUIDEPIN MUST SIT IN THE ALIGNMENT HOLE. When i first installed, the two pieces mated together and seemed very solid, but it was misaligned. When I fired it up, the entire oil pan drained all over the driveway, and was a PITA to clean up. My jackass mistake might save you some pain. Aligning the pieces properly feels quite awkward until you screw it down, then everything is set. I am giving the finger in the picture because it was a bad day up until that point.
8.) Add your new spin-on filter - feels great
9.) Reassemble. Don't forget to add more oil!
10.) Drive over to DaleNixon's in a sweaty panic and tell your tale of woe.
Enjoy!
I had a serious (mis)adventure installing the SU oil conversion kit last weekend. It's actually pretty easy, but here are some bro-tips:
1.) Ramp and chock the vehicle
2.) Drain oil as usual; have plenty of shop towels handy
3.) Put the oil plug/kwik valve back on, leave filter off
4.) Use your favorite 10mm tool and remove the four bolts holding on the "filter dongle" that sits between the oil pan and the filter - this is the part you are replacing.
5.) There is an evil hose in the way, and it is a PITA. Don't remove it - It's filled with coolant, and if you removed it, you would violently drain coolant all over yourself and your work area. Not that I would know anything about that. Just a tip
6.) Once the dongle is off, there is an interface between the oil cooling system and the coolant system that sits on top of the dongle. It is a black piece of plastic attached to the oil dongle with a 15mm bolt. Cracking this bolt can be tricky. You have no chance while the dongle is attached, and even while off and flopping around, you will need a small 3/4 ratchet to get it off. Not that bad though, just have the right tool ready.
7.) CRITICAL STEP. Once you have the dongle removed, notice the guide pinhole in the arrangement:
It's that hole just outside the fitment circle, at the 180 degree position just outside the circle. On the underside of the coolant interface is a little pin. THAT GUIDEPIN MUST SIT IN THE ALIGNMENT HOLE. When i first installed, the two pieces mated together and seemed very solid, but it was misaligned. When I fired it up, the entire oil pan drained all over the driveway, and was a PITA to clean up. My jackass mistake might save you some pain. Aligning the pieces properly feels quite awkward until you screw it down, then everything is set. I am giving the finger in the picture because it was a bad day up until that point.
8.) Add your new spin-on filter - feels great
9.) Reassemble. Don't forget to add more oil!
10.) Drive over to DaleNixon's in a sweaty panic and tell your tale of woe.
Enjoy!
