hard to start / long crank

c4racer

Member
Hey everybody.

Our P5 lately has been hard to start - taking longer to fire up. Battery is fine, the starter spins normally, but the motor just takes more cranks before firing. Seems to be progressively getting worse.

I checked the service manual and there is an 18 point flow chart to follow...

But before I just start down that path...

Maybe there is some collective wisdom that will help me pin this down.

Car has 110K miles.
plugs and air cleaner have 22K, so I doubt they are the culprit.

Here is the list of items:
POSSIBLE
CAUSE
Spark leakage from high-tension leads
• Vacuum leakage
• Poor fuel quality
• Starting system malfunction - (does not seem like it)
• Spark plug malfunction - (doubt it)
• Air leakage from intake-air system
• Erratic signal from CKP sensor
• Erratic signal from CMP sensor
• Air cleaner restriction - (doubt it)
• IAC valve malfunction
• PCV valve malfunction
• Inadequate fuel pressure
• Purge solenoid valve malfunction
• MAF sensor contamination
• Restriction in exhaust system - (doubt it)
• EGR valve malfunction
• Pressure regulator control (PRC) system malfunction

Any of those items more likely than the rest given age and miles?
Car is 5.5 years old, 110K miles.

These cars do not seem to have fuel filters - right?
Built into the tank?
that is what my parts guy told me.
 
Yes, the fuel filter is built into the tank. You can check your fuel system, but it is sorta difficult and best left to a pro IMHO.

Easy things - if you haven't, replace your ignition coils. They are notorious for going bad on our cars, and at 110k miles, you're on borrowed time. Also, check your intake boot to make sure it is not ripped in the accordion-style part of it. These also seem to go bad quite frequently on our cars, and will result in a large vacuum leak.

Otherwise, clean your EGR valve (search for the How-To on this forum), and see if anything is improved after all this.
 
Yes, the fuel filter is built into the tank. You can check your fuel system, but it is sorta difficult and best left to a pro IMHO.

Easy things - if you haven't, replace your ignition coils. They are notorious for going bad on our cars, and at 110k miles, you're on borrowed time. Also, check your intake boot to make sure it is not ripped in the accordion-style part of it. These also seem to go bad quite frequently on our cars, and will result in a large vacuum leak.

Otherwise, clean your EGR valve (search for the How-To on this forum), and see if anything is improved after all this.

I was thinking EGR valve too - might be something to try first.

There is no CEL btw. The intake did rip and I repaired it because a replacement from mazda was expensive. I used this thick heat shield material which worked perfectly. That happened at least a year ago, so I should double check to make sure it is all still in place.

I will do those and look for other vacuum leaks before considering coils.
The coils are about $80 each, so it is a $350 job, plus probably wires so talking $400. Do these regularly start to fail at this mileage? Seems odd.

I should also clean the IAC valve and replace the PVC before doing anything else.

The troubleshooting list from the manual does not even list the coils, which is interesting. First thing I thought of was ignition, weak spark, etc.
 
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