Engine Replacement Interchangeability FAQ Guide

JDM Sam

Banned
Sources: JDM Sam, TheMAN
Q1: What engines can I use for a direct swap/replacement?

A1:
  • Any FS 2.0L from a 2001-03 Protege or Protege5, manual or automatic does not matter, you're swapping the engine not the transmisson, the flywheel and clutch will bolt up to the crank of the donor engine, just keep all your manual parts and pieces to swap over
  • 1993-1997 MX6/Probe and 2.0L FS engines are available but not recommended because the cranks are not forged, and you will have to take it apart to transfer parts over, and high mileage on these engines.
  • 1993-2002 626 also have 2.0L FS engines but only the 2000-2002 blocks should be used, some 99s depending on the production date. The difference is the crank was reported to be forged in the later year models
Q2: What you must buy new or transfer over on all FS engines?
A2:
  • Main cap support plate, specific to MSP it has the turbo oil drain machined into it and is right above the oil pan.
  • Rear oil cooler, lines, oil filter stud
  • Intake manifold, valve cover, thermostat cover, heater bypass pipes, the coolant junction block, and the bracket around the side of the head above the junction block
  • Rest of your current Protege accessories and manifolds
  • If you use a non Protege cylinder head you MUST transfer the Protege cams, cam gears, valve cover over, crank pulley, ignition. You MUST use a non-distributor cylinder head.
  • 98-99 626 FS have smaller intake ports and have different cams.
  • 2000-2002 626 uses the same cams as Protege
  • Any other brackets or parts that broke as a result of the engine failure
  • Maintenance related parts and hardware. ex. clutch, timing belt, spark plugs, hoses, seals, gaskets, pumps, etc.
  • Good time to do the rear engine mount if yours is torn
  • Your existing transmission and drivetrain parts.
Q3: Can someone show me a how to guide through the entire swap process?
A3:
Stop, step away from the forum, hire a competent mechanic before you **** s*** up even more. (rlaugh) If you are seriously competent and mechanically inclined, the available manuals online should tell you everything you need to know to do it. There is a reason why there are paid professionals in the field. So if you can't RTM and understand the process, this applies to you. This is not a beginner's task. If you want to learn go enroll at a technical school for automotive technology. BTW, shops usually do charge more to fix something a DIY'er ****** up. http://www.floptical.net/mazda/
(RTM)

Q4: Where can I find places that sell engines?
A4:

Salvage yards in your area, if you find one local you wont have to pay to ship a big heavy pallet.
www.google.com

(google)

Q5: What about building the engine?
A5:

Read the FS engine build FAQ page.
 
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the engine support plate is diffrent from the auto to manual by the way I found this out earlier from a engine I had laying around
 
the starter on the manual car is a 3 bolt flange design but the starter on a auto is a 2 bolt

we found this out this past weekend when helping swap my buddies pro5 motor. we just drilled a whole threw the plate for the bolt.
 
Nice job, I'll be getting someone to swap my old MSP's engine with my brothers new/blown block, perfect timing!

Edit: also quick question, the replacement that we are doing, the blown motor has custom built valve cover and adjustable pulleys, and forged cams, so I am assuming that when doing the swap we will need to buy a full set of replacement gaskets for the whole engine, or can we get away with just the valve cover gasket, then I guess there is the exhaust and intake mani gaskets too.. so full replacements i guess huh?
 
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Nice job, I'll be getting someone to swap my old MSP's engine with my brothers new/blown block, perfect timing!

Edit: also quick question, the replacement that we are doing, the blown motor has custom built valve cover and adjustable pulleys, and forged cams, so I am assuming that when doing the swap we will need to buy a full set of replacement gaskets for the whole engine, or can we get away with just the valve cover gasket, then I guess there is the exhaust and intake mani gaskets too.. so full replacements i guess huh?

i would buy the whole gasket set. its real complete for the money and guarantees you won't be missing anything

http://siteground207.com/~protegeg/product_info.php?cPath=32_171&products_id=424
 
thanks Ken, was checking those out after I realized I would need them, it's never as easy as just a replacing things, always something else needed lol, but it looked like a great set. thanks as always
 
thanks Ken, was checking those out after I realized I would need them, it's never as easy as just a replacing things, always something else needed lol, but it looked like a great set. thanks as always

no problem. we carry pretty much anything needed to get a broken or swapped FS on the road again, so hit me or JDM Sam up if you need it.
 
You always replace the timing belt, tensioner spring, water pump, front and rear main seals, cam seals, valve cover gasket, intake and exhaust gasket, any other gasket that you expose through removal and installation, spark plugs, oil, coolant before you swap another engine in. It is future insurance knowing the maintenance was done, especially if you do not know the maintenance condition of the engine. See ANSWER #2
 
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Why couldn't you use a mx6 or probe engine? Is the crank not forged in those or is there another reason?
 
real old FS engines do not have cam sensors or cam gears with magnetic pickups, so the car's ecu would not run the engine without these.
 
just thought of another question, when replacing a used engine, there any type of "break in period" or just go right after the swap back to normal driving?
 
i just got a great deal on a 95 probe fsde with 64k on it. Plan on using my cam gears, my head and intake, my crank and valve cover.

my cams got some groves from i'm guessing the ass bags that built my motor not cleaning it out good enough. changed the oil every 500 and popped a rod out the block at idle after only 1200. .... hope the crank is good.....

the only difference i see with the cams is the gear on the exhaust that drives the distributor. any body know the specs on them? If the piston smacked my head and messed it up (god i hope not, just had it all polished, ported, 3 angle valve job, new seals) i will use the head off the probe motor, and get it all redone, and just machine a plug for the distributor hole.

any other differences i should look for?
 
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