Canadian EGR valve exposed

:
2001 BJFP MT
:
2016 BMYFS AT
Tis the season for bad EGR valves. Many of you have either experienced or know someone who have experienced engine performance or driveability issues with their Protege. This problem is extremely common on our cars and usually occurs on higher mileage vehicles and especially during cold weather (especially if humid). Many have resorted to disassembling their EGR valve and cleaning off the carbon build up in the pintle and housing, but this is only a temporary solution as the problem comes back at a later time.

Mazda USA and Canada has released TSBs on this common issue and also released an updated EGR valve which has a metal shield to seal the stepper motor from the valve/pintle assembly from the elements in order to "correct" the problem. The TSBs state that the problem is with water condensation built up in the EGR valve which causes the motor to rust. When combined with carbon build up (which is normal for all EGR systems) this is a perfect recipe for the EGR valve to seize. Early occurrences of this problem usually includes any or combination of the following: rough idle, cruise surge, low idle, or stalling. Later on as the problem progresses, a P0300 random misfire or P0401 EGR flow insufficient codes along with a "Check Engine" light occurs. A P0300 code is a more common occurrence with stuck open EGR valves. A P0401 is not as common and usually no driveability issues are experienced. The Protege's EGR valve does not have a pintle position sensor so it does not know that it is stuck unlike other cars such as some GMs with electric EGR valves out there (despite the fact that our cars also use electric EGR valves). The only way for the ECU to monitor the EGR functionality is with the boost (MAP) sensor but because it takes a lot of pressure change to cause a failure to be detected, the ECU misreports a P0300 code.

Many have misdiagnosed the early symptoms of a bad EGR valve or like me just simply disbelieve the EGR valve has failed. Either way, ignition system parts have been replaced and a lot of times money wasted. So note to the wise, if your car has always been properly maintained following the recommended schedules and your car is experiencing the above driveability issues, look into a new EGR valve!

Mazda USA's TSB 01-028/05 and Mazda Canada's (now obsolete) TSB 01-05-24 shows diagnostic procedures as well as replacement parts information. The FSY1-20-300-9U part has a shield around the assembly but looks like the original factory part. After almost 3 years of experience with this updated part in the harsh Canadian climate, it was proven that even this "new" valve was still prone to failure because it's not moisture from the outside but what condenses behind that metal shield! Due to this, Mazda has specially engineered an EGR valve for the cold Canadian climate which basically eliminates failure possibility and released a new TSB 01-07-17 (for 1.8l FP/2.0l FS engines) and TSB 01-07-46 (for 1.6l ZM engines) which offers an extended warranty on all Canadian 3rd gen Proteges regardless of mileage as long as it is less than 7 years old.

The Canadian EGR valve is a much superior design in which that not only combines the "sealed" design, but also utilizes coolant hoses to heat the EGR valve in order to "cook" the condensation out. A vent hose is part of the design in order for the water vapors to escape. No longer does it have rust prone cast iron valve body either-- it is now all aluminum except for the stepper motor housing. This design hopefully eliminates any future failure possibility due to rust. Mazda USA has not decided to sell this valve yet nor offer any extended warranty most likely due to lower failure rates because of the milder American climate in general. Some northern states that experience Canadian-like winters are at a great disadvantage like always (Mazda USA never offered winter package options which are standard equipment in Canada). Like I said, 3 years of Canadian winters have proven that the original style EGR valve still sold in the US fails. In otherwords, if you want to fix your car for good, forget about getting a new US EGR valve and go through the trouble of getting the Canadian one.

No, you can't get the Canadian EGR valve (ZMY1-18-W00 for 1.6l ZM-DE engines and FSY1-18-W00 for 1.8l FP-DE or 2.0l FS-DE engines) from a US dealer. I tried, trust me. The only way to get it is from a Canadian dealer. Luckily it is not really that expensive. It only retails for $149.95 CND plus taxes. It is actually a complete repair kit that includes new hose clamps, reusable zip ties, throttle body gasket, and EGR valve gasket. In the end, it really costs about the same or a little more than the US EGR valve!



More importantly, while Mazda acknowledges the EGR valves are problematic, they will NOT replace your catalytic converter damaged due to the P0300 random misfires in connection to the TSB. It will be under your emissions warranty (96 months or 128,000km in Canada and 96 months or 80,000 miles in USA whichever comes first) instead in which many Proteges have too high of mileage or service time to allow this to be covered. So in otherwords, if your "Check Engine" light starts blinking, pull over as soon as possible and shut off the engine! A damaged catalytic converter could easily add $1000 more to your repairs due to something as silly as a broken EGR valve!

attachment.php

attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • egrkit.jpg
    egrkit.jpg
    31.4 KB · Views: 4,210
  • egrparts.jpg
    egrparts.jpg
    43.8 KB · Views: 4,159
Last edited:
There are 3 hoses already attached to the EGR valve out of the box. One hose you will connect to the IAC valve of the throttle body (thereby which you discard the original hose) and the other hose will connect to the heater bypass pipe which will be the coolant source. The one long hose will be routed along the "engine" (starter/alternator) harness which goes under the battery tray to where the fuse box is. This hose is the vent hose and will be left unconnected.

An excerpt from the TSB is attached as well as pics of the EGR valve
attachment.php



attachment.php

attachment.php

attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • egrtsb.jpg
    egrtsb.jpg
    143.7 KB · Views: 41,281
  • egrvalve.jpg
    egrvalve.jpg
    39.5 KB · Views: 4,360
  • egrdetail1.jpg
    egrdetail1.jpg
    53.7 KB · Views: 3,652
  • egrdetail2.jpg
    egrdetail2.jpg
    54.8 KB · Views: 3,829
Last edited:
Can you give the info about the canadian dealer you used and how it was ordered?
 
due to high demand and limited availability of the part (they've been on backorder off and on), it's best I don't disclose which dealer I got this from... it is unfair to the locals there who need it more than we do

you can however use this page though and just call around to see which one will ship to the US: http://www.mazda.ca/eng/dealers/dealerlocator.asp
otherwise, your only other choices are either going there to get it yourself or getting someone who lives there (plenty of those on the board) to get one and ship it to you




on another note, I come to find out that the K and J series mazda V6 engines use something similar in their EGR valves... they have coolant lines running through them... but I also found out that new diesel engines out there (including mazda's) run coolant either through the EGR pipe or through the valve itself to cool the exhaust gases (which is good if your car is boosted as you can lower intake temps even more and further improving emissions as well as power efficiency/fuel economy)... I guess it goes both ways.... heat the EGR valve and cool the EGR gases... water is such a wonderful temperature regulator :D
 
excerpt from TSB 01-07-46 (1.6l ZM engine)
attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • egrtsb2.jpg
    egrtsb2.jpg
    76 KB · Views: 3,257
Last edited:
here's a crappy ebay pic of the US "revised" EGR valve that doesn't really fix anything in the long term (though lasts longer than the original style valve)

ERE.jpg



If anyone has bought the a new USDM valve and can take pics and post them here, it will be appreciated!
 
got the s*** installed today.... all I got to say is, what a royal pain in the ass!

the FS-ZE intake has the EGR mounted differently so the EGR valve basically sits above the motor mount, which makes tools hard to reach it! anyway, I'm very glad I bought this EGR valve instead of the halfassed USDM one because I don't want to deal with this again!

comparison pics between new and old
attachment.php

attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • compare2.jpg
    compare2.jpg
    89.3 KB · Views: 14,725
  • compare1.jpg
    compare1.jpg
    82.1 KB · Views: 3,943
Last edited:
you can see some rust in the old valve... there wasn't much carbon buildup inside the valve assembly, it looks perfectly normal in fact... didn't bother taking a pic of the inside because it wouldn't show up good
attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • egrrust.jpg
    egrrust.jpg
    40.6 KB · Views: 2,895
Last edited:
and here's the pics of the valve installed

the parts got colored so that you can tell where they are installed... "green" hose goes all the way to the top of the throttle body (IAC)... "light blue" hose goes to the coolant return pipe... the gay "purple" hose is the vent hose that runs all the way to the fuse box


and just to think the story ends here... I put everything back together, and the car started up fine... but after reving it a few times, the car ran like s***! WTF... I spent 30 mins checking for leaks and only found the cold pipe to the intercooler was leaking a tiny bit... I tightened the clamps more and fixed that, but it was still running bad.... I finally said **** it and took the plugs out and found #3 was fouled up.. I cleaned it and the engine ran great after that.... must be the induction cleaning I was doing right before I took the car apart that did that... either way I was pretty mad after spending all day messing with this that the car ran like this!!

attachment.php

attachment.php

attachment.php

attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • installed1.jpg
    installed1.jpg
    61.5 KB · Views: 3,694
  • installed2.jpg
    installed2.jpg
    59.5 KB · Views: 3,445
  • installed3.jpg
    installed3.jpg
    86.2 KB · Views: 3,546
  • installed4.jpg
    installed4.jpg
    43.4 KB · Views: 3,082
Last edited:
here's a crappy ebay pic of the US "revised" EGR valve that doesn't really fix anything in the long term (though lasts longer than the original style valve)

ERE.jpg



If anyone has bought the a new USDM valve and can take pics and post them here, it will be appreciated!

So does the original EGR valve not have that little metallic shield thingy? Cause I have that exact EGR valve in my '01 Protege LX 2.0, but I always assumed it was the original from when the car was new. And it really hasn't acted up on me - I went to clean it at 90k miles, and there was little to no carbon buildup. Knock on wood.(ugh)
 
how long?

hey theMan, thanks for this informative post. I am in the process of dealing with this as well. I"m in Canada and contemplating doing the repair myself. How long did it take you? and what would you say your level of expertise is on car repairs? thanks.
 
Nice find The Man!

My solution is a little different though.

I plan on flattening the egr tables in the ecu so it doesnt look for the sensor at all. However if you need to keep all your emissions stuff this is a godo idea. I live in halifax and dont mind checking the local dealers to see if these are for sale.
 
Edwin, are the coolant connections critical for this? Reason I ask is I did the throttle body coolant by-pass, rerouting that flow to my turbo and from what I can make out in the diagram, it is using the same connections.
 
TheMan,
Did you follow Step-By-Step bulletin instructions? I am asking about these steps:
- removing Throttle body and replacing old throttle body gasket?
- draining 2 liters of coolant via radiator drain plug?
- removing number 1 engine bracket?
- removing EGR valve bolts from under the car?

Or you were able to complete this by simply removing the battery tray and air intake?

NFSP
 
it is near impossible doing this without unbolting the #1 engine mount bracket IF you have a stock engine mount... there's plenty of room if you have an aftermarket

I did drain the coolant to keep the mess down and reused it (used a clean milk jug to do this to avoid contaminants), but I did not remove the throttle body because dealing with the paper gasket sucks!

but because I didn't unbolt the engine mount bracket, I did everything from the top of the car, including unbolting the EGR... I tried to do some of the work from the bottom but with the stock engine mount in place and the engine not lifted, all of that is impossible

so bottom line is, if you follow the instructions it will make life much easier but I don't recommend the throttle body removal as you still have room to work


also, if you aren't going to bother with hooking up with the coolant lines, you might as well forget going through the trouble of getting this... the "revised" USDM EGR valve will be what you want and you should prepare for another failure down the road
 
EGR Valve SAGA

Thx TheMan.
I got Mazda ES 2001 (2.0L). I can tell you something that you already know there is not much space around that valve.. My guess is that i have stock engine mount. Yesterday i took off the Air Intake just to see if this would be a Mission Impossible or Mission Impossible Level 3..
I guess it is Mission Possible with some major PITA... I could feel both bolts (12mm), but could only see one. Without removing the battery and battery tray it is impossible to have second bolt removed.
My CEL came ON at 139,000km. If USDM revised will last for another 60,000km i am a happy man. This car is nice, but i can see rust here and there and it is nearly impossible to fight rust when they put so much salt on the road during winter. A couple of more years and i will have to say final Good-Bye to it.

I am in Canada. FSY1-18-W00 is available for $149 plus 13% TAX, and installation is $135 plus 13% TAX. Total installed about $320.00 CDN.

Another option is to put USDM revised valve, but they are at least $225.00 here in Sunny Canada. Basically for $100 more one can get Canadian EGR valve installed by Dealership, rather than do-it-yourself USDM option. I will call few Auto parts stores to see if they have USDM revised for less money and will take a chance. It should be good for 2-3 years, and i am not asking for more.
 
TheMan,

I finally decided to replace EGR valve with Canadian version. Took the old EGR valve off. It was stuck in closed position. I used a C-clamp to to force it into open position. Tried to clean it with not much success. If i simply re-install this valve after cleaning, it will fail next week or so. I do not wish to do all this work again.

One question for you: As per instructions which came with new valve, it say to disconnect the water hose from the throttle body (fine), bypass pipe (ok) and water outlet pipe (why?)

After the new valve has been instlled, it says "Install the water hoses in this sequence:
a) Insert the water hose to the bypass (ok)
b) Insert the water hose to the water outlet pipe (why did we have to remove it at all ?)
c) Insert the water hose to the ISC (OK)

Any idea?

Thx.
 
don't know why, I thought that was pretty stupid too... I didn't bother removing that hose either as it would be reconnected later.... thanks for reminding me about that hose

all I did was disconnect that hose from the throttle body so that I had room to position the new EGR valve's hoses correctly because of how little room there is, but I never removed the hose from the car
 
Done! What a pain this Canadian EGR Valve !
My advise - take it apart: remove the solenoid from the valve body (four screws). That makes it so much easier to install the valve and tighten those two mounting bolts. Install the Valve, then attach the solenoid, but do yourself a favour by replacing original Philips Screws with Hex Cap Screws.

Next time EGR fails - i will buy another car...

Interesting fact that Alternator, EGR valve solenoid, ERG sensors, and other sensors have Mitsubishi Logo on it.

TheMan, thx for your time and help.
 
Back