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Thread: Replacement MAP Sensor + Female Connection

  1. #1
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    Black Mica Mazda 3 Grand Touring Hatch

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    Replacement MAP Sensor + Female Connection

    Hey guys, I'm having some issues with my MAP sensor setting off a CEL. Getting error code P0106. I have an '05 2.3L Mazda 3. I've checked the wiring on it... seems ok but the female connector looks a little bit dinged up. I'm thinking the MAP sensor itself might be bad, but I also want to replace the female connection. Does anybody know of anywhere to find a CHEAP MAP sensor for less than $150? I'd also like to get a new female connection with a pig tail so I can splice it into my wiring harness. Any body know of anywhere that sells them, or any junk yards that have a totaled car that they're parting out? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

  2. #2
    Virgin1, Rally White bbrich57's Avatar
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    I was once quoted $80 @ Auto Zone, but did not try it.
    Have you tried simply cleaning it?
    You have to be very careful, but if you use 50/50 rubbing alcohol and a gentle hand w/a Q-Tip you might not need a new MAF (Mass Air Flow.)
    Also, remember to reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery and touching the two cable ends together for at least 30 secs.
    Last edited by bbrich57; 05-18-2008 at 01:47 AM.

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  3. #3
    Virgin1, Rally White bbrich57's Avatar
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  4. #4
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    Black Mica Mazda 3 Grand Touring Hatch

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    Well actually my MAF sensor is operating ok, it's my MAP/BARO sensor that's causing the problem. I was able to pass emissions though so I've got a year to solve the problem. Thanks for the reply!

  5. #5
    Virgin1, Rally White bbrich57's Avatar
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    MAP sensor? I am not aware that the 3 has a MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure.) I thought they went out w/the OBDI system? Where is it located?
    Do you mean IAT (Intake Air Temperature?)
    If so, that's part of the MAF and can be cleaned by simply pouring some of that 50/50 into it, let it sit for a minute and dump it out.
    The Baro sensor is the little one held out and on w/a screw on the intake. I don't understand why that would be bad.
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  6. #6
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    Black Mica Mazda 3 Grand Touring Hatch

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    yes its the baro sensor. The previous owner did a hack job to the wiring of it, so i think it somehow got shorted. That's the reason I need a new baro sensor with the female connection+pig tail. The only reason I said map sensor is cus that's what the ecu calls it. Error P0106 MAP/BARO. I know it doesn't actually have a manifold absolute pressure sensor because the vaccuum port on the manifold is capped. The dealerships call it a boost sensor, go figure. Nobody can seem to agree on what to call it. But it's a barometric pressure sensor and it's faulty, for whatever reason lol.

  7. #7
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    P0106 OBD code

    I have an '04 Mazda 3 (2.3L) and my CEL came on. The code is P0106 which is the MAP/BARO failure. I too figured out that this car doesn't have a MAP sensor, so I assumed it must be a faulty BARO sensor. When I called the dealership to get a price on this part they had no idea what I was talking about. They kept saying there is no BARO sensor, but there is a boost sensor which really confused me since all the repair diagrams I've found call it a BARO sensor. So now I'm assuming these are the same sensor, which sounds correct. Is this BARO/Boost sensor located near the MAF on the air intake hose? Between the air filter and the engine manifold? I got a quote from the Mazda dealership of $182, is there anywhere else I can get this part for less?
    Thanks

  8. #8
    hickalicious!! tsunami's Avatar
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    try calling montgomery mazda one of the maine sponsers they do oem parts cheaply... and deffinatly describe to him your problem so you don't by a part you need.

  9. #9
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    2 boost sensors?

    I will try calling the Montgomery Mazda to discuss this, thanks.
    I did call a local mazda dealership and I'm more confused now because they said there are two "boost" sensors. There's one bolted to the air filter box (looks like a mitsubishi part), and another cylindrical sensor on the air hose between the air filter box and the engine manifold (sitting in the air stream). The mitsubishi part costs about $180, and the part on the air hose costs $80 (and of course no returns). Can anybody tell me which one I should try and replace first based on their experience?
    Thanks!

  10. #10
    Registered Member coondogg's Avatar


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    Quote Originally Posted by LV_M3GT View Post
    but I also want to replace the female connection.
    Random spot to look for chicks...

  11. #11
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    MAP / BARO sensor

    So I replaced the MAP/BARO sensor (Mitsubishi part bolted onto the air box) and the code came back immediately. I could try replacing the other boost sensor which is about $60. Any suggestions?
    Thanks

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