Alignment inquiry: P5 on H&R springs - should I get MSP alignment specs?

Dimitrios

Contributor
:
2012 CWP MS3
So, I am replacing my strut mounts and bumpstops tomorrow (didn't do them last year on the initial install). I am planning on having the alignment checked afterwards - as it's lowered (and has the Mazdaspeed swaybar kit), should I ask to have it checked against the MSP suspsension specs?:

From Edwin's FAQ:

I am performing an alignment on my MazdaSpeed Proteg. Are there any special settings?
Yes, the suspension geometry on the MazdaSpeed Proteg must be significantly altered from the normal 3rd generation Proteg's to ensure proper handling and reduced tire wear. The special settings are:

Front and rear toe-in: -1.01.0mm, -0.040.04", -06'6'
Caster angle (front): 201'1
Kingpin angle (front): 1259'
Camber angle (front): -058'1
Camber angle (rear): -048'1

Tire pressures must be at 32 psi (cold) on all 4 tires as well as a full fuel tank when performing the alignment. Vehicle must be unladen (no cargo or passengers) to perform proper alignment.
 
I just had my alignment done. I have a P5 with Espiler springs, Mazdaspeed f/r sway bars, and whole bunch of other stuff. lol I asked them to set the toe to 0* front and rear. Camber is not adjustable. But I found a little trick that helped me.
Now, if you loosen the pinch bolts on the struts, with the car on the ground, the weight of the car with collapse in on itself resulting in a tad more camber.
Before my camber read, -0.7*. Well now I have -1.2* camber in front. Good stuff! People will say this camber setting will ruin my tires. I will absolutely not! Toe is what eats tires, not a small amount of camber. Rear camber is not adjustable. Ask them to get as much caster as possible. (Which I have found not as adjustable, just like the camber.)
So, with this setting it is night and day from before. Turn is awesome! Nice and stable throughout the entire turn, whereas before I felt like I was riding on super skinny bicycle tires.
Also, beware: I have had a shop print up some crap that "looks" like the settings you want, but are really from another car. I had some chumps do this. Gave a printout saying I had -1.9* camber front and rear, with a caster of about +1.0*, which impossible with a stock P5.
So, if I may, I would recommend:
Camber: As much as "negative camber" you possibly can.
Caster: As much "positive caster" you possibly can.
Toe: 0* front and rear.

Try this and I bet you a lunch like it as well.
 
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