Here's how I did it, and it is very easy to do. No jacking up the car and dislocating your arms to get to the underside of the actuator. All done from the top and can be put back to stock in about 5 minutes.
Locate the wastegate actuator and factory boost control solenoid. These are near the firewall. It is easier to get to if you take off the shroud for the intercooler. Yours will have a hose running from where the cap is on the solenoid to the top of the actuator.
Here is a picture of the wastegate actuator. Pull the hose off the nipple that you can see, and replace it with a hose going to the inlet of your boost controller.
The cap you see here is where the hose ran to the wastegate actuator, You can cap it if you want to keep trash out of it, but there will be nothing running through it when we are done.
The hose you see coming off the solenoid in the above picture runs to the intake. Pull it off the intake and install a hose going to the outlet of your boost controller. I didn't remove this hose from the solenoid, just left it there.
This picture shows where to hook your outlet hose, It's hard to see, but easy to follow the hose from the solenoid to find it. It's pretty simple to install it by feel, as it is pretty tight in there.
Now, Screw your boost controller all the way in, and begin the tuning process. I made several 4th gear pulls loosening it about 1/4 turn each time. With the controller completely closed, you will be limited to wastegate spring controlled boost, which was about 15 psi for me. GO SLOW! I used a dash hawk to monitor my air-fuel ratios and fuel pressures. At 19 psi my AFR's are in the 11's, which I feel very safe with.
Keep all the hoses you pull off, and you can put them back on for a trip to the dealer in no time at all.
I am using the JoeP Manual Boost Controller, which was about 40 bucks. I'm also using a map clamp to avoid boost cut. All this does is takes the factory boost control solenoid (which we know works) and replacing it with one of your choosing.
Have fun, and start a fund to replace your tires.
Moose
Locate the wastegate actuator and factory boost control solenoid. These are near the firewall. It is easier to get to if you take off the shroud for the intercooler. Yours will have a hose running from where the cap is on the solenoid to the top of the actuator.
Here is a picture of the wastegate actuator. Pull the hose off the nipple that you can see, and replace it with a hose going to the inlet of your boost controller.
The cap you see here is where the hose ran to the wastegate actuator, You can cap it if you want to keep trash out of it, but there will be nothing running through it when we are done.
The hose you see coming off the solenoid in the above picture runs to the intake. Pull it off the intake and install a hose going to the outlet of your boost controller. I didn't remove this hose from the solenoid, just left it there.
This picture shows where to hook your outlet hose, It's hard to see, but easy to follow the hose from the solenoid to find it. It's pretty simple to install it by feel, as it is pretty tight in there.
Now, Screw your boost controller all the way in, and begin the tuning process. I made several 4th gear pulls loosening it about 1/4 turn each time. With the controller completely closed, you will be limited to wastegate spring controlled boost, which was about 15 psi for me. GO SLOW! I used a dash hawk to monitor my air-fuel ratios and fuel pressures. At 19 psi my AFR's are in the 11's, which I feel very safe with.
Keep all the hoses you pull off, and you can put them back on for a trip to the dealer in no time at all.
I am using the JoeP Manual Boost Controller, which was about 40 bucks. I'm also using a map clamp to avoid boost cut. All this does is takes the factory boost control solenoid (which we know works) and replacing it with one of your choosing.
Have fun, and start a fund to replace your tires.
Moose
