timing belt replacement

I helped my nephew change out his t-belt. When we checked the timing marks, one cam had turned slightly so we re-did it all to get the marks right and rotated engine 3-4 times to check marks again. After getting it all back together, the initial start up was fine but when he started to drive home it kept dying at stop signs/lights. I removed the IAC valve which was clogged. I cleaned the valve and the car idled but it is rough and has a thick gas smell coming out the exhaust. The question I have is that the cam pulleys were not exactly straight across.If I was to put a straight edge across the pulleys, the marks would be just barely below the edge.Manual is not exactly clear on this. I have changed belts on Hondas and Mopars and the manuals stated that the pulleys should be straight across where the head meets the block. Also I got the crap shocked out of me from one of the plug wires. Could this be a big issue also? I have some 8mm Accel plug wire. Can this be used?
 
Have you checked to see what your engine vacuum is? That would be a good indication as to your marks being on. The 2 lines on the cams should be even with each other flush with the head.
 
Problem solved. Timing was jacked because each cam gear was off by one tooth. Rotated front cam clockwise and aft cam counter clockwise. Gears were then completely straight across. Cam tensioner spring was also disconnected because we streched it to far on initial belt installation. Plug wires were changed also. Weird thing was that there were was carbon track marks on the plug where the ceramic meets body.
 
1.6 timing marks

Hi, I'm a fish to this site but I think that you could help me. I am trying to finish up a timing belt install on my daughter's 99 protege 1.6L AT. I'm getting conflicting directions from several repair manual sources and I don't want to screw up the engine. I checked the link you provided with pics and I want to make sure that I understand it correctly. The books say letter's must be straight up while other's say down towards the water pump at approximately 45 dergrees towards eachother. All I know is that before I removed the old belt at T.D.C., I marked the outer edges of the cams across the first grooves which seemed like a timing location horizontally to the head. This puts the the Intake I and the Exaust E upward. Yet I seem not be able to keep the marked edges of the cam that I marked aligned when putting on the belt with the I and E upward. The cams shift back towards the water pump slightly as if they belong in that position. I can get the belt on by moving a cam a degree or two but sometimes it throws the mark on the crankshaft off or after I give it the revolutions, the cams are a tooth or so off. Please explain to me how you beat this distributorless aligning issue, Thanks
 
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dude look at my post where they posted the pictures. the marks on the 1.6 should be facing at the 45 degree mark.
 
I don't know how it happen but my timing belt was tearing and ripping at about 40,000 miles on the vehicle.
 
Hi, I'm a fish to this site but I think that you could help me. I am trying to finish up a timing belt install on my daughter's 99 protege 1.6L AT. I'm getting conflicting directions from several repair manual sources and I don't want to screw up the engine. I checked the link you provided with pics and I want to make sure that I understand it correctly. The books say letter's must be straight up while other's say down towards the water pump at approximately 45 dergrees towards eachother. All I know is that before I removed the old belt at T.D.C., I marked the outer edges of the cams across the first grooves which seemed like a timing location horizontally to the head. This puts the the Intake I and the Exaust E upward. Yet I seem not be able to keep the marked edges of the cam that I marked aligned when putting on the belt with the I and E upward. The cams shift back towards the water pump slightly as if they belong in that position. I can get the belt on by moving a cam a degree or two but sometimes it throws the mark on the crankshaft off or after I give it the revolutions, the cams are a tooth or so off. Please explain to me how you beat this distributorless aligning issue, Thanks


I too marked all the positions. But putting on the new belt could not be done.
I had my lovely bride hold the cams with tension so i could put the belt on. There is cam valve spring tension you are fighting to get to the original marks.

To late now - but if you can for next time - cut away half the old belt - enough to slip the new belt 1/2 way on. Then cut the rest of the old belt and finish sliding the new on...
 
Timing Marks

I couldn't make enough sense of the timing marks given on the 2.0 to trust them either. After checking stuff out online, I read how to split the belt lengthwise with a sharp utility knife from the top of the engine while rotating the crank 1/4 turn at a time- remove plug's to turn easier. Use puller to remove main drive wheel and simply pull off half of belt and slip new timing belt on halfway before cutting remaining old half. This way you know it's got to be right. With a little piece of wire I was able to replace the tensioner spring.
As long as you're in there it is still possible to do the water pump if you need to, but since an idler is bolted through it you will first need to lightly clamp the new belt to the bottom cog and use four clothespins to hold the position of the cam-cogs. This may sound like a lot of extra screwing around, but I'd rather bolt all the accessory's & stuff together knowing that it couldn't be wrong.

my belt had 75,000 on it and showed signs of wear. the clamp used for the main cog was a blue one handed "quick grip" and the clothespins fit in nicely from the engine side- 3/4 inch
 
is the 2.0 a interfearance or non interfearance engine? if they belt was to break is there going to be ptv?
 
Nah, just a huge deabate around the forum. Some say it is - others say it t'aint.
[duck and cover]
 
I say someone holds their car at 3000rpms and then take a cutting device and quickly destroy the belt between the cam gears and see what happens, would be interesting.
 
Mazda states that it's non-interference. And we don't have a harmonic balancer... So, I don't really care what others say, it's non-interference. ;)
 
^ +1...when i did my timing belt on my fp-de before it died i was off 3-4 teeth, ran like s***. it died two weeks ago of old age. completely disassembled the motor, no ptv. so no, non-interference.
 
I say someone holds their car at 3000rpms and then take a cutting device and quickly destroy the belt between the cam gears and see what happens, would be interesting.

if i had read this before i pulled my fp-de i would have gladly done it lol. the thing was dead anyway.
 
i'll be doing mine shortly, i have 150k on the orig belt...so ity's time! any tips for this nubee?
 
does any one know the torque spec for the ider and tensioner pullies?? and also the crank pulley?? and also the valve cover too?? i need em asap and really don wana make another thread.. also is there a thread on here with all the torque specs for everything? i can really use that... doin a full forged rebuild at the moment and o soo close :)
thanks
jagan
 
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