DRL & Foglight Bypass

[GL-1970]

This procedure is for cars with Daytime Running Lights (DRL) only
The foglight procedure may work in Non-DRL models, let me know if it does.

The goal was:
A) Allow foglights to run independent of headlights
B) Bypass DRL to allow foglights to be used instead

Foglights in DRL CX-7's are wired to the Low Beams. If we instead connect them to an ignition accessory (such as AC) they will run when the ignition switch is ON. We have to bypass the Auto Light Control Module (ALC) or they are still shutdown by the High Beam switch.

DRL is turned on by releasing the footbrake with the ignition ON. This runs the High Beams at 50%. To bypass DRL, ground the ALC wire which monitors the Parking Brake switch. This must be done at the point where the wire Just enters the ALC. Grounding it at other points will interfere with the Brake Lamp, Navigation, and possibly other car operations.

This is the original circuit for DRL headlights
With DRL - stock.jpg


The modified circuit - Note: NOT an official circuit
Modified Circuit not-hand drawn.jpg

[GL-1970]

Part 2)


Safety: As always, disconnect the battery, and please check the wiring. This procedure worked on my vehicle, though other models may vary.


Foglight
Locate Relay box in passenger side of engine bay
Engine Relays.jpg

Unclip the box, and remove the base plate. Note: if you did not disconnect the battery, just removed fuses for Horn, AC, and Foglight – there can still be power to some terminals.

Cut the foglight coil (12V) wire
Splice the foglight coil wire to the AC coil (12V) wire, and terminate the engine end of the foglight coil wire.

This may be enough for Non-DRL models to allow control of foglights, please let me know if you try it in your vehicle. For DRL models, we need to bypass the Auto Light Control Module


In the driver’s side footwell
Remove the scuff plate
Scuff plate.jpg


Remove the upper plate
Upper panel.jpg


Remove the side plate
Side panel.jpg


Remove the steering wheel shells, may need to loosen steering wheel tilt lever
Steering wheel shell.jpg

[GL-1970]

Part 3)


Locate blue connector by footwell
Blue connector.jpg


Follow marked wire (black with red stripe) located in fifth hole – up to the top. You will need to remove some electrical tape, and give the wire at tug here and there to find out where it moves at the top. This wire should give about 1.5V when the foglights are working.

Cut the wire at the top. The end that continues on should be terminated securely. The end that leads to the blue connector will be connected to the foglight switch.


Remove the turnsignal/headlight switch by removing two small screws. There is no need to remove the cables from the switch. Locate the Black wire with yellow stripe on one end. Locate the Black wire beside it. Locate the Black wire with orange stripe opposite it. On non-DRL cars this may be Black with red stripe.

Follow this wire all the way to your other cut wire. You’ll have to cut more electrical tape, and note there are other wires the exact same colour going the exact same way, so be sure to follow the correct wire. This wire is the foglight switch wire. The large yellow wire is the airbag wire.

When you have found the point where the two wires come close, cut the switch wire. Terminate the end that continues onward. Connect the two cut wires. Cover the connector with shrink tubing, rewrap all the lines with electrical tape, test the switch, and reassemble all the panels.

Test:
Car off: Test all headlight functions, low beams, high beams, flash, etc. Everything should be normal except foglight will not come on in any case.

Ignition on: (car does not need to be running): With headlights off, foglights should be controlled by switch. Foglights should not be affected by any position of the headlight switch including highbeam. High beam indicator should function normally. Air conditioning should function normally.

Foglight switch can be left on, as the lights will be turned off when you turn the car off.

[GL-1970]

Part 4)


To bypass the DRL:

Parts required:

SPDT switch with On-On states.
This will connect ALC to ground (DRL OFF), or to stock wiring (DRL normal) depending on the position of the switch.
You can also use a DPDT (On-On) by using just one side. Or you could just wire the ALC to ground and ignore the switch, thus bypassing DRL completely.



Parking Brake Wire from Auto Light Control module must be cut and grounded.
This must be done right at the ALC module so as to not interfere with the parking brake electrical functions.

I installed a SPDT switch (ON-ON). In one position the ALC wire connects to the original wiring. This allows normal DRL functions. In the other position the ALC wire connects to ground. This simulates parking brake ON, while not lighting the parking brake light.

ALC switch.jpg



Locate the ALC module. It is behind the speedometer.

The hard way to locate the correct wire: Remove instrument panel top cover. May need to remove side panels in footwall, centre console panels, panel below steering wheel. Once the instument panel top cover is off, ALC is the black box mounted behind the gauges. Locate the Black wire with red stripe on the end. It will have a black wire opposite it.

ALC.jpg

Alternate, easier, and possibly unsuccessful method.
Lay on back with head beside brake pedal. There will be two bundles of wires at the top going from the driver’s door side to the passenger’s side. They disappear into a hole. In this hole is the ALC. The ALC is mounted to the car with a sliding tab, and has two white connectors plugged into it. One has 12 holes, and one 16 holes. The wire we need is on the end of the 16 hole connector. It is Black with a red stripe, and is opposite a Black wire.
I do not know if you can find the correct wire this way, there are several wires the same colour going into the connector, and the ALC module will probably not move enough to let you see the right one. I had to remove the instrument panel in the hard method, but only thought of this easier method after. However it may not be possible to pull the connector enough to see.

In either case, once you found the wire, cut it, and wire the ALC wire to the Common wire of the switch. Wire the original wire to one side of the SPDT switch. Wire another wire to the other side of the SPDT switch and connect to the ground terminal located just above the rubber pad for the brake pedal.

With the switch one way, the DRL should function normally.
With the switch the other, the ALC will be grounded, and the DRL will never come on.
If you have miswired, or the ALC wire is simply cut, I believe the DRL will in fact never shut off. If you ground in the wrong spot on the parking brake switch wire, your navigation may think you’re stopped when you’re not, or the car brake system may not work as intended.

I have used a male/female 18 ga insulated connector set where I cut the ALC wire. This way I can simply reattach them when I sell the car.

DRL switch.jpg


When you reconnect the battery, you will have to reinitialize the DSC and windows
Battery Disconnected.jpg

[CX-7owner]

[GL-1970]

Nice job, seems like a lot of work, like a LOT. Great details and pictures.

Sure, but the hard part was figuring out the wiring diagrams, well, that and getting the darn panels off.


Fraser River.jpg

[jures]

This procedure is for cars with Daytime Running Lights (DRL) only
The foglight procedure may work in Non-DRL models, let me know if it does.

The goal was:
A) Allow foglights to run independent of headlights
B) Bypass DRL to allow foglights to be used instead

Foglights in DRL CX-7's are wired to the Low Beams. If we instead connect them to an ignition accessory (such as AC) they will run when the ignition switch is ON. We have to bypass the Auto Light Control Module (ALC) or they are still shutdown by the High Beam switch.

DRL is turned on by releasing the footbrake with the ignition ON. This runs the High Beams at 50%. To bypass DRL, ground the ALC wire which monitors the Parking Brake switch. This must be done at the point where the wire Just enters the ALC. Grounding it at other points will interfere with the Brake Lamp, Navigation, and possibly other car operations.

This is the original circuit for DRL headlights
With DRL - stock.jpg


The modified circuit - Note: NOT an official circuit
Modified Circuit not-hand drawn.jpg

THANK YOU FROM SLOVENIA - EUROPE! I was going nuts with lights on at start (lost 1 xeon bulb...)