Mazdaspeed6 Clutch Fix TSB

chuyler1

goes to eleven
:
2013 CX-9
UPDATE:

This thread was started back in May of 2007. Keep that in mind as you read it. Very few owners received the full repairs of this TSB back then and dealerships and Mazda today are rarely performing the repair, especially if your vehicle's clutch has passed the 12,000 mile warranty period. Owners who are having trouble with their high mileage clutch should read How-To: MS6 Clutch adjustment. Also note that even with the repair the clutch will never be feather light or forgiving. It remains heavy and touchy even with the Type-A repairs and drivers used to other clutches (your friends, your wife) may still have trouble until they become acclimated to it. The repair only addressed the non-linear snap-like feeling the clutch had as you lifted up on it.


TSB: 05-003/07
2006 - 2007 MAZDASPEED6 - CLUTCH PEDAL IS DIFFICULT TO OPERATE
APPLICABLE MODEL(S)/VINS
2006 - 2007 Mazdaspeed6 vehicles with VINs lower than JM1GG****7*107613


DESCRIPTION
When releasing the clutch, the height of the pedal where the clutch starts to engage is higher than other vehicles making a smooth engagement difficult. Higher pedal pressure is required to depress the clutch pedal at the point of clutch engagement.

The following mass-production changes have taken place:

Feb. 21, 2006 - Improved clutch pedal characteristics.

May 26, 2006 - Improved clutch cover release load characteristic.

July 1, 2006 - Improved clutch disc cushion deflection.


Type A Vehicle

(VINs from JM1GG******100001 - 106359)
Type B Vehicle

(VINs from JM1GG******106360 - 107613)

Clutch Pedal Type: "Pre-Modified"
Clutch Pedal Type: "Modified"



REPAIR PROCEDURE
1. Verify customer concern that clutch pedal is awkward or difficult to operate.
2. Determine if vehicle is Type A or Type B:
If Type A vehicle (with Pre-Modified Clutch Pedal): Replace clutch pedal, clutch cover, and clutch disc assemblies with modified parts according to Workshop Manual (section 05-10 CLUTCH PEDAL REMOVAL/INSTALLATION A26MX-R).

If Type B vehicle (with Modified Clutch Pedal): Replace clutch cover and clutch disc assemblies with modified parts according to Workshop Manual (section 05-10 CLUTCH UNIT REMOVAL/INSTALLATION A26MX-R).

3. Verify repair.
PART(S) INFORMATION
CAUTION: * The modified Clutch Cover Assembly and Clutch Disc Assembly must be replaced as a set.Part Number
Description
Qty.

GP4L-41-300A
Clutch Pedal Assembly
1

L304-16-410A
*Clutch Cover Assembly
1

L304-16-460B
*Clutch Disc Assembly
1

P017-27-421A
Driveshaft Retaining
2

T060-26-169A
Tie-Rod Nut Lock
2

GJ6A-33-023C
Lower Arm Bush (Front)
2

GJ6A-33-024C
Lower Arm Bush (Rear)
2

A601-17-117
Drain and Filler Plug Seal
2

L3A1-40-581
Seal Ring
1

LN01-27-3A2
Ring "O"
1

LN01-27-3A3
Oil Seal
1



WARRANTY INFORMATION
NOTE:

This warranty information applies only to verified customer complaints on vehicles eligible for warranty repair. Refer to the Warranty Wizard for warranty term information.

Additional diagnostic time cannot be claimed for this repair.
 
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I'm gonna try this exact thing tomorrow when I go to the dealership. thanks for the info.
 
Now that we are all used the clutch....LOL!

R
 
Any one have a rattle in the frame surrounding the handle to open the front doors. I get a little rattle when there's a lot of base going on.

On another note, how do I check my car's VIN number for that clutch issue?

Thanks.
Simon
 
Its along your windshield on the driver's side I think...the same place it is on all cars. It is also on your vehicle registration and insurance statement and every piece of paperwork you got from the dealer when you purchased the car.
 
I spoke to my dealer earlier today. They stated that I need to bring the car in for it to be evaluated. Based on the evaluation, they'll decide if the TSB needs to be done or not.

Next time I have it in the dealership I'll have the evaluation done. But according to the service rep, the evaluation takes hours and I'll need to leave the car with them for a full day.

I've not done the clutch modification and still find that my clutching isn't as smooth as I would like it to be. But, maybe my expectations are too high or I'm just a crappy driver. Hopefully they'll decide that this needs to be done. But, I'm not overly optimisitc that they'll deem the TSB as being needed.
 
Make sure you un-do the clutch mod before you take it in. That will better your chances. If they try to deny it, explain to them that Mazda has already admitted a defect, hence the TSB, and since they will get reimbursed by Mazda for the repair there is no reason for them to deny the claim. If they still deny it, take it to another dealership.
 
chuyler1 said:
They? Did you speak with your dealer?

Yes 2 Dealerships one of them said they had not heard of it till I asked then they pulled it up. They both said I would have to go through an evaluation. Does that mean I need to put my car back to stock? If so that is going to suck!
 
I would say, put the clutch back to stock and take it in. Just explain that you have had a problem with the clutch since you got the car and driving in stop-and-go traffic is very difficult. If dealership 1 tries to deny the claim based on other mods and you can't convince them otherwise...remove the mods and go to dealership 2.
 
Rainman said:
Now that we are all used the clutch....LOL!

R

LOL...no kidding. I wonder if they will give any grief since I already adjusted it a little on my own?
 
sweetness, so we get a brand new clutch out of it.... But I'm concerned on the exact type of changes that will take place. If they simply "soften" the clutch engagement, it just means more lag in power transfer and the potential of the clutch to wear out faster... ie it would only be able to support 300hp instead of say 350hp...
 
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DSMConvert said:
sweetness, so we get a brand new clutch out of it.... But I'm concerned on the exact type of changes that will take place. If they simply "soften" the clutch engagement, it just means more lag in power transfer and the potential of the clutch to wear out faster... ie it would only be able to support 300hp instead of say 350hp...

Is that really the whole clutch pretty much?

My VIN ends with 104414, so that puts me in the Type A area.
 
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For Type A it appears to be the entire clutch. For Type B I think the pedal is fine. I am curious as to how this will help the problem. I suppose we need a photo of the old clutch next to the new one. I always thought it was the spring mechanism in the pedal myself but I'm no expert.
 
chuyler1 said:
For Type A it appears to be the entire clutch. For Type B I think the pedal is fine. I am curious as to how this will help the problem. I suppose we need a photo of the old clutch next to the new one. I always thought it was the spring mechanism in the pedal myself but I'm no expert.

I have an appointment for tomorrow for an oil change and this adjustment, I guess we'll see how it goes.
 
I just got back from the Mazda dealer today and he was ordering the parts today and said they should be in within a week. Looks like I'll be getting an entirely new clutch and assembly and pedal out of the deal. NIIIIICE!
 
MUSOM said:
I just got back from the Mazda dealer today and he was ordering the parts today and said they should be in within a week. Looks like I'll be getting an entirely new clutch and assembly and pedal out of the deal. NIIIIICE!

Excellent, I hope I get the same result when I go in tomorrow.
 
At least one person has already been given the run-around by their dealer (reference Mazda 6 Club). Be prepared for them to tell you there is nothing wrong. If they say this (over the phone most likely) ask to have an additional technician drive the car and if they refuse ask for the manager and have HIM drive the car. Remind them that Mazda has already admitted that there is a problem and your car's VIN is listed among the faulty vehicles.
 
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