Protege5 Fiberglass Subwoofer Box

There is no profit really unless you would consider paying upwards of $500-1000 for one of these...and working with fiberglass isn't something that I can do on a daily basis. I need to work outdoors and I don't have many free weekend days with good weather to do that.

$500-$600 isn't a bad price to pay for costume sub enclosures...I found a shop that would do my trunk for $750. I have all the subs, amps and crossovers, and they would just mount them in my trunk and cover the fiberglass with carpet. If I had the time I would try it myself, though. Yours looks VERY nice!!
 
Yeah...its just time. If I had a garage to work in I would probably fab up a reverse mold and pump out a few for forum members but there really isn't much of a market. You don't see much of that on eBay. Most people just aren't willing to pay $500 for something like that when they can buy a $60 box made out of 5/8" particle board.
 
That box looks awesome! Is it just that expensive because of the materials or labor? Where did you get the carpeting for your box, it looks like a pretty good match.
 
Materials cost about $100-120. Then it is about 1-3 days to complete. If you want to finish it off with paint or vinyl it will take another 2-3 days of sanding and prepping.
 
but it doesn't cost you anything to read my thread and follow the instructions yourself ;)

ill be doing that very soon! i want to lose my box i made, im pressed for room as it is with my water tank back there. the instructions were really good especially the 2 12" one. i like all the tips u guys mention, those are the things that make projects frustrating the first time.
 
I'm thinking this might be a good option for my budget build with a 4 channel amp bridged to power comps up front and a single sub for musical fill in the rear.

I'll only have about 120W going to the rear, do you think with the right sub I can get this to work well? I don't know if I should go 10" or use an 8" to keep the install tidy and use more of the box's space. I use the rear a LOT. I'm always hauling something due to no truck, so keeping the sides flush is important. I'm installing the amp under the seat and running wires back for the sub.

What do you think about 8"? Waste of all that effort?

I do listen to hip hop but also reggae and rock, but listen to it for my ears, not the neighborhood. I do like nice bass in the music though.
 
Is it just me, or is/ was there(maybe this) writeup which was more thourough? I remember seeing a similar FG enclosure for the P5, 'cept the Sub had a carpeted cover for the sub itself. Any help?
 
Lots of people have made these but I'm not aware of any other how-tos other than this one on this site.
 
Its not any harder, but my wife only needs one subwoofer. Unless you're a base head one is plenty in a hatchback.
 
I may do this with an 8 or 10 in the passener side. It seems like I can get more airspace and keep the sides perfectly flat.

he he
"base head" = druggie
"bass head" = thump in the trunk
 
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The left side gives you more depth while the right side may give you slightly more air space due to the lack of the gas line to the tank...However, if you build one on the left side you don't have to worry about moving things around to access your jack.
 
Since I got an 8" subwoofer that only needs .35 cu ft of air I think I'll do the driver side. I read you can use polyester felt or fleece from the fabric store instead of fiberglass cloth which is more expensive. Any word on that?
 
u still use both technically. u make the back out of glass. then use your wood forms to make the shape. then stretch fleeece over it and resin the fleece. then u add glass for reinforcement.
 
You cannot use fleece as a replacement for glass matte. Fleece is great for stretching and forming the base of your enclosure. It absorbs alot of resin but it doesn't provide any structural rigidness. You must incorporate at least 5-10 layers of matte on top of the fleece to build an enclosure equal in strength to MDF.
 
got any resin mixing tips? I cant ever get it to harden well, theres always spots that dont dry (not puddled, im guessing its not mixed all the way). The only time i had good luck was with west systems but those are expensive
 
Use paint measuring cups that have fluid ounce markings on the side. You can get small clear ones from walmart in the hardware/paint section. Measure out the hardener first, either by counting drops or using a tsp/tblsp measuring utensil. Once you have the proper amount measured, poor it in the mixing cup first, swish it around, then fill the measuring cup with the appropriate amount of resin. Mix it with something OTHER than a brush, a mixing stick or scrap piece of mdf. Only mix 4-8 fl oz at a time and use all of it. That way you can reuse the mixing cup. Once the brush starts to get stiff toss it and grab another one. When you are finished, place the piece in the sun to help with the hardening chemical reaction.
 
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