Recently my door lock actuator stopped working, last weekend I finally replaced it. It was fairly easy only took me 1 hour and a 5 min. beer break. Anyway, I decided to further examine the old door lock actuator, why did it stop working. I openned up the electronic piece and found one of the plastic gears broken. It looks like cheap plastic to me and that motor looks like something from a battery operated car toy.
Door Lock Actuator Problem
- Thread starter FastPro22
- Start date
ncsukingpin
Member
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- Mazda Protege 1999 1.6L LX
Anyone know where to get a cheap door lock motor for a 99 protege? They are $90 at the dealership, so I was hoping for cheaper.
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- Protege5 2003
ncsukingpin said:
That was the one of the best things about my old 323 - manual everything. That beast was 18 years old when I finally sold it. Sure, it rattled like a tin can full of marbles, but the windows and locks all still worked. (It also got 27 MPG driving the same route that gives me 22 in the P5, but the 323 was a manual and the P5 is an automatic, and that's most of the difference.)
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- MAZDA 03.5 MSP
if it is a 2wire or even a 5wire u can get them from a local car stereo shop...it wont actually bolt up like factory but after u get it mounted and functional hook up the wire (if using a 2wire) and test if it operates opposite of other DL's then reverse the 2wires. if it's a 5wire then the polarities of the wires will have to been tested. i never looked to see yet how many wires there are so good luck
ncsukingpin said:
ncsukingpin
Member
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- Mazda Protege 1999 1.6L LX
P-Funk! said:
What is this problem with the fan ballast resistor that you are talking about?
My car too
Same thing keeps happening on my 2001, with the same gear failure. I'm replacing the driver side actuator for the 3rd time. Seems like the worm gear is under-designed. I wonder if the small limit switch is supposed to keep the actuator from being overdriven - like when you hit the door lock on the key remote and the door is already locked?
FastPro22 said:
Same thing keeps happening on my 2001, with the same gear failure. I'm replacing the driver side actuator for the 3rd time. Seems like the worm gear is under-designed. I wonder if the small limit switch is supposed to keep the actuator from being overdriven - like when you hit the door lock on the key remote and the door is already locked?
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- 2003 Subaru WRX Wagon, 2000 Miata
I'm wondering the same thing. anybody know the answer to this?
All i found on the forum was 1 part number: BJ3D59350
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123648455&highlight=door+lock
Fixing the plastic worm gear
Your photo of the worm gear explains the problem well, it really is a bad design. 2 years since your posting and still no suppliers of the 50 cent plastic gear. The dealers want $200 for the combined door lock mechanism and the wreckers want $160 for the same. I drilled a 1.5mm hole up the centre of the plastic gear and superglued a nail in place, this meant the auto lock worked well but I was slightly off line in my drilling so the manual interlock becomes too stiff to work. This is because the worm does not liked to be pushed the other way, any friction is magnified and being slightly off line some binding occurs, lubrication of the plastic does not help, they are probably better dry.
Your photo of the worm gear explains the problem well, it really is a bad design. 2 years since your posting and still no suppliers of the 50 cent plastic gear. The dealers want $200 for the combined door lock mechanism and the wreckers want $160 for the same. I drilled a 1.5mm hole up the centre of the plastic gear and superglued a nail in place, this meant the auto lock worked well but I was slightly off line in my drilling so the manual interlock becomes too stiff to work. This is because the worm does not liked to be pushed the other way, any friction is magnified and being slightly off line some binding occurs, lubrication of the plastic does not help, they are probably better dry.
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- -- 03 P5 / 23 CX-5 --
onlinemazdaparts dot com
No, there are left & rights, front & rears.
Not sure about part numbers but I'd guess that there are different part numbers for all 4- front L & front R, rear L & rear R. The rears are different from sedan to wagon too.
see links below. 44.00 for fronts - 40.00 for rears......
Here's links to the acutators on onlinmazdaparts dot com..........
http://www.trademotion.com/partloca...tege&year=2003&catalogid=2&displayCatalogid=0
http://www.trademotion.com/partloca...tege&year=2003&catalogid=2&displayCatalogid=0
More questions? Call them. Jason will hook you up. Very helpful/knowledgeable. Have used them exclusively for oem parts many times.
Oh, junkyard is good too, just to get by, but why take the door apart just to have junkyard part fail the same way only sooner?
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Since I posted this I have replaced 3 other door lock actuators. Today, it happened again, driver's side, that's the 2nd one on that door. This really sucks! I don't think I'm going to replace these actuators anymore, I GIVE UP! Don't like to spend $40 per actuator per year, that's just riduculous.
Boston5761
Member
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- 03' Familia
I have a brand new OEM L rear door lock actuator. Swear I will have proper pics up tonight.
$44 delivered
$44 delivered
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Boston5761
Member
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- 03' Familia
B25E-72-350A
Part number for Right Rear
Part number for Right Rear
