Balance Shaft Delete [BSD] Kit by hate_romania

:
'02 Honda S2000
Balance Shaft Removal Kit
by Alex (hate_romania)​


Required Tools Required Materials:6 Quarts Oil (I suggest Amsoil or Motul)
3000+lb. Floor Jack or Ramps Motorcraft FL-910 Oil Filter
(2) Drain Pans Purolator PL15505 Oil Filter
Oil Filter Wrench Permatex Ultra-Grey Silicone Gasket Maker or Victor razin
Gasket Scraper
Ratchet(s)
6" Extension
8mm Socket (Deep)
10mm Socket
13mm Socket
15mm Socket
18mm Socket
21mm Socket
Bear, good friends and time :D

A small word before starting
If you are the average guy how knows about the engine a bit but never worked on a engine forget it its freaking complicated, if will do the mod I will worn you now if you will do it in the garage while lying on the back its going to be difficult and you will taste some oil, dirt will fell in your eyes and your hair you contain oil me I think I was lucky and I was crazy when I made the decision
I find bsd very very very very complicated and not for the week of heart

Ok lets start

If you want to fell the difference between the before and the after BSD i recommend you NOT to reset the ECU.


1. I used one of those to jack up my car so i can work underneath it
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2.Remove splash shield 6x12mm screws No need for pictures and explanation here

3.Drain oil 1x17mm screw place drain pain under the oil pan and remove the drain plug to drain the engine oil. Let drain completely. Replace plug and tighten. Remove drain pan from work area. A small advice if you have run the car before the install let the engine cool down or you will get burn from the hot oil.

4.Unbolt A/C Protector and A/C Compressor and rest it on a jack, or leave it hanging. 3 nuts 12mm for the metal plate that protects the compressor and 4 very long bolts 12mm for the ac compressor
img28497iq.jpg


5.Unbolt and remove oil pan. I have attached a schematic of the oil pan and the bolts disconnect the bolts in REVERS ORDER from 13 to 1. All the screws that go vertically are 10mm the 3 screws that go horizontally into the tranny are 17mm, and the 4 screws that are on the passenger and go horizontally are 8mm screws

oilpanbolts3ss.jpg


Now after removing the screws right next to the oil filter there was a small gap put a flathead screw driver and pry the oil pan off
img28590ve.jpg


6.With the oil pan removed, remove the 2 long screws that hold the oil pickup, the black tube and remove the oil pickup. Put the pickup aside in and keep it clean
img28646ns.jpg


7.Remove 4x10mm bolts that hold the balance shaft assembly from the block. Use caution as the balance shaft assembly is heavy (18lbs, 8.1 kg) if you do the operation on the back trust me that thing is freaking heavy. Set the assembly aside. A lot oil will spill when you take out the shaft from the hole that the kit will go on. If you place the bsd right under the car you will see that one of the legs (lack of a better word) that where attaching the balance shaft on the block a small secondary hole that was the oil feed for the balance shaft now look on the block you will see the extra hole right in front of the oil filter.
img28617rd.jpg


8.Place Cosworth Balance Shaft delete plate with O-ringed bung into the oil supply port used by the balance shaft assembly.

Before the cosworth
81972c4cc16100671f2e0734536f28.jpg


After the cosworth
819b5167bf9300789620832fac9781.jpg

819c85ce910163425dc8f37f532355.jpg


9.Use a small amount of Red Loctite on the attachment bolt and secure the plate to the block. The bolt should be torqued to 20ft/lbs.

10.Reinstall the oil pick-up tube and torque 8-10ft/lbs. WARrniNG I scraped a screw here dont use more power then brain the screw will broke. I had a nice neighbor that made me a custom screw.

11.Use the Gasket Scraper (a razor blade will do in a pinch) to remove any old sealant from the block and oil pan mating surfaces. A trick that my father teach me (after giving me the s*** for opening the engine :D) put some gasoline on the old sealant it works perfectly the old sealant just peeled off by its self. Use a clean rag to remove any oil from the mating surfaces on the oil pan.

12.Sparingly apply Ultra-Grey Silicone to the oil pan sealing surfaces. The best method is to smear the silicone across the surface evenly with your finger. DO NOT USE EXCESSIVE AMOUNT OF SILICONE! Excess will simply squeeze out when the pan is tightened and make a mess! Excess inside the oil pan can get loose and clog the pickup or get caught in moving parts.
The underlined text is a copy from marcymotorsports install I call it bs
From the service manual fallow the line of the oil pan and put the silicon gasket the silicon line has to be min 2.2mm and max 3.5mm dont use the finger to spread the silicon just by tightening the oil pan the silicon will spread out.
BEFORE APLYNG THE GASKET DO A TEST FIT FOR THE INSTALL OF THE OIL PAN IN MY CASE I REMOVED THE GUN PIECE THAT ATACHES THE TRANNY TO THE REAR ENGINE MOUNT 3X19MM SCREW cause was in the way. IF EVERIGHING OK TRY AGAIN once the silicon is on the oil pan you have to be fast and there is no second try you miss you have to redo the gasket.

13.Reinstall oil pan. Tighten bolts in the following order at 12-16ft/lbs

14.Place a drain pan under the oil filter. Remove the old filter and install the new one.

15.Pour 3 quarts of oil into the engine. Check for leaks. Add 2 additional quarts if there are no leaks.

16.Reinstall A/C Compressor and protector at 13-19ft/lbs.

17.Reinstall splash shield 6x12mm.

18.Go take a shower, whatever just let the car and silicon dry for a least 1 h

19.Start the engine but dont rev-it let it warm completely and the stop the engine

20.check for oil leaks under the car.none then go zoom zoom

Hope this helps, special thnx to Philidonis, Brian aka MrTea, Flo a friend of mine, theBeansoldier, Goldfish and to my father who even if he was very pissed off on me cause I opened the engine he helped me Thank you.
 
~3whp/3wtq, more free-reving engine, better throttle response, very little cabin vibrations at low rpms. The Duratec23 of the Ford Ranger (very similar to the MZR 2.3L) has no balance shafts, so the 3 can have this mod with relatively no problem. This mod only applies to the 2.3L. 2.0L 3s don't have balance shafts.


here's a rough comparison dyno. the mod really shows itself at higher rpms since the balance shaft spins twice the speed of the engine.
35l8ewi.gif
 
Man I am really curious to see what your car can do in the Canyon. Also us Mocc members are having a bbq soon. You should join.
 
not trying to rain on anyones parade but i am curious what was the balance shaft there for? what is its purpose and why Mazda engineers put it there? Any long term issue can be expected at all?
Will it be needed eventually? will it void your warranty?
nice write up and pictures; i dont have the know how or the balls to do it myself but you make it look simple enough.
 
Things like this are there purely to make the car quieter and smoother. This isnt a balance for the crank or rotating assembly, this is something to deaden the vibrations of the motor. The fact that Ford isnt using one on the same motor is further proof that removing it isnt going to have negative effects on the longevity of the motor.
Nissan guys have been removing these assemblies (they are a chain driven shaft on the Sentra motors) since forever with no issues, and I dont recall what other motor it was, but there is another inline 4 with a balance shaft that a popular mod is a balancer shaft delete.

It will make a slight difference in NVH but no problems with longevity.
 
I noticed you had to loosen the A/C Comp for this, does that imply you removed the belts, as you didn't mention that anywhere that I can see.

Also, Cosworth delete plate? Is that a third party supply part needed, as it's not mentioned in supplies either. I might be able to tell if the After Cosworth picture worked for me.
 
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Equinox said:
I noticed you had to loosen the A/C Comp for this, does that imply you removed the belts, as you didn't mention that anywhere that I can see.

Also, Cosworth delete plate? Is that a third party supply part needed, as it's not mentioned in supplies either. I might be able to tell if the After Cosworth picture worked for me.

The delete plate is the BSD. Focussport.com sells the kit, which is only that small plate stamped "Cosworth", which you can see on the last 2 pics, and a screw. The A/C unit has to be moved out of the way (1 user cut the A/C belt instead of loosening the A/C- new belt costs ~$45) to lower the oil pan.
 
thebeansoldier said:
The delete plate is the BSD. Focussport.com sells the kit, which is only that small plate stamped "Cosworth", which you can see on the last 2 pics, and a screw. The A/C unit has to be moved out of the way (1 user cut the A/C belt instead of loosening the A/C- new belt costs ~$45) to lower the oil pan.

Thanks for the info. No reason this shouldn't work on a mazdaspeed right? Even if there is an extra oil feed line.
 
Davenow said:
and I dont recall what other motor it was, but there is another inline 4 with a balance shaft that a popular mod is a balancer shaft delete.

It will make a slight difference in NVH but no problems with longevity.

4G63 - DSM mitsubishi 2.0 L
 
Focus said:
Why **** with your warranty for an extra 3WHP ?

Agreed John...

3 ******* WHP??

You would get more out of a Drop In Filter..

I will say that swapping for a lighter flywheel would be a better way to reduce rotating mass..

Good write-up..
 
just a little info excerpts from
http://www.carseverything.com/content/previews/mazda/article/1346.3/

"...Among the key objectives for the new 2.3-liter engine was achieving more torque, horsepower and smoothness, while delivering improved fuel economy, lower emissions and minimal maintenance requirements. The new engine hits all of these marks, thanks to the use of lightweight aluminum, innovative engineering, such as the use of S-VT, balance shaft and a keen attention to detail..."

"...Located under the crankshaft, the balance shaft minimizes vibration by rotating at twice the speed of the crankshaft and offsetting the secondary inertia force of the rotating system. The balance shaft is fitted in its own housing and attached to the cylinder block for optimum positioning. It is driven by a gear to reduce drive losses..."

"...Mazda's use of S-VT and balance shaft in the 2.3-liter version of the company's new family of 4-cylinder engines provides the Mazda [3] an extra level of refinement and another level of NVH reduction...."

NVH = Noise, Vibration, Harshness.

Just FYI
 
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Believe me, I understand why it's there. I just don't understand why you removed it.. There are more improtent things to tak e off such as A/C if you really plan for better performance. Get a racing cell for the front and remove all the rubber frame counterbalance weights.
 
lol when you think about it people spend alot of money on CF and fiberglass to shave that kind of weight + you get a bonus 3whp lol if there is something wrong with your motor just reinstall and bring into dealer duh haha (ughdance) (first)
 
This will most likely work with the MS3 as well, but even if I had an MS3, this is not even one of the mods that would cross my mind-- there are much better ones, but for the N/A, every little bit helps. If you know how to remove the oil pan/drain your oil-- this is a relatively easy mod.

here's the funny part-- it's actually harder to remove this than to put it on. I know an owner that had to put back his balance shafts back for dealer engine work. I think there's "kit" you need to put it back on.
 
power-wise actually there isn't. there's just the intake, exhaust, header/test pipes, pulleys, ecu tuner, injectors...

I don't think there's an available intake manifold yet
 
doesnt cosworth have all kinds of great stuff for the new 2.0 and 2.3l? crazy cyl heads and stuff, i think you can get crate motors too.
 
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