Parking Brake... pretty important to use?

jandree22

Member
:
2007 Mazda5
Hey guys, I found this online and it was all pretty much news to me, so I thought I'd share. I checked into it further and it seems like this is all accurate. I never realized how important using the parking brake was even when parked on a flat surface... I didn't use it on a normal day-to-day basis, but maybe I will now. Particularly read the 3rd paragraph in the answer. Enjoy.

Question: My car has an automatic transmission with park, so why do I need a parking brake?

Answer: The parking brake serves as a mechanical emergency backup brake system. Should your hydraulic brakes fail, the parking brake can be used to stop the vehicle.

Many people who have vehicles with automatic transmissions rarely use their parking brake. They simply put the transmission into park to lock the drive wheels when they park their vehicle. Even so, it's important to use your parking brake periodically.

Using the parking brake regularly helps keep the cables freed up so corrosion can't accumulate and cause binding. Applying the parking brake also works the self-adjusters in the rear brakes, which helps keep the linings in drum brakes properly adjusted for minimum pedal travel. On cars with four wheel disc brakes and locking rear calipers, using the parking brake keeps the threaded self-adjusting mechanisms inside the rear caliper pistons working freely to compensate for pad wear.


The parking brake system is fairly simple. On vehicles with drum brakes in the rear, applying the parking brake pulls a pair of cables that are attached to arms on the secondary brake shoes. This forces both pairs of shoes outward against the drums to lock the brakes. On four wheel disc brake applications, the disc brake pads are pushed against the rotor by the caliper pistons. This requires either a cam or screw mechanism inside the caliper piston that pushes the piston out and holds it there, or a mini-drum brake inside the rear rotor.

On rear disc brake applications with locking calipers, the adjustment of the parking brake cable is especially important. If the cable is adjusted too tight, there may not be sufficient travel to work the self-adjusters and/or the brakes may drag. If the cable is adjusted too loose, the parking brake may not hold the vehicle. As a rule, most hand levers should travel only about 4 or 5 "clicks" when properly adjusted.

On four-wheel disc brake systems that have "mini-drums" inside the rear rotors, the parking brake works like a conventional drum brake. Pulling on the cable forces the shoes outward against the drum to lock the wheel. But unlike a full-sized drum brake, there's no self-adjuster mechanism for the star wheel to compensate for shoe wear because one isn't needed. The only time the parking brake is applied is when the vehicle is at rest so shoe wear is virtually nonexistent. The shoes should last the life of the vehicle -- unless the parking brake is binding and causing them to drag. The thickness of the shoe linings doesn't really matter as long as there is enough lining left to hold the car on an incline with normal cable travel.

On most vehicles, the left and right parking brake cables are attached to a lever linkage called an "equalizer" yoke under the vehicle. The equalizer yoke balances or equalizes the amount of force that's applied to both cables when the parking brake is applied. The equalizer linkage, in turn, is connected to a single cable that runs to the parking brake lever or pedal. An adjustment screw may be located on the front cable where it connects to the equalizer, or where the cable attaches to the parking brake lever.

Rust is the main concern with the brake cables and linkage. Rust can cause the cables to bind in their sheaths, preventing the brakes from being applied or released. If one cable freezes up, the equalizer can't do its job so only one wheel will lock. Though this may not create a problem when the parking brake is used for parking, it could create a serious handling problem should the system ever be called upon for emergency braking. The imbalance would likely cause the one wheel to lock up and skid, possibly throwing the vehicle out of control.

The equalizer linkage can also rust up, interfering with proper application and release. Or it's hinge pivot can sometimes rust or break loose rendering the parking brake useless. Lubricating the pivot points and brake cables periodically with chassis or brake grease can help protect against corrosion.
 
forget anything you read. only know this....


ALWAYS USE IT, MANUAL OR AUTO....PERIOD

Manual, well for the obvious reasons....if you don't, there is nothing holding your car..

Auto....It removes the strain from the engine mounts and gears that actually holds the car in place when you park. Make sure that you engage the brake BEFORE putting the car in park. it is no use to put it in park, remove the foot from the brake pad and then engaging the Ebrake.

I use it always.....

and do a search, it was covered before in another thread.

hope that helps a little......
 
I didn't even use it when I was driving stick... just parked it in 1st gear and that held it. Oops I guess...

Thanks for the reinforcement on the issue

(BTW, I just searched for about 10min. and didn't come up with anything really relevant)
 
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jandree22 said:
I didn't even use it when I was driving stick... just parked it in 1st gear and that held it. Oops I guess...

Thanks for the reinforcement on the issue

(BTW, I just searched for about 10min. and didn't come up with anything really relevant)
let me look for it. I know it was discussed before

hold on a sec


welll....dammit, can't seem to find this darn thread. it was really good and THEMAN also put some of his wisdom in.

Somebody who read/subscribed to this thread, help me out because it was useful. Should've subscribed to it.

point is, always use the E brake, it is better, safer.
 
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It's an old habbit, I use it when-ever I shut the engine off.
And it's no harm to do it AFAIK :D
 
Auto....It removes the strain from the engine mounts and gears that actually holds the car in place when you park. Make sure that you engage the brake BEFORE putting the car in park. it is no use to put it in park, remove the foot from the brake pad and then engaging the Ebrake.
You don't have to engage it before you put the car in park but you DO have to engage it BEFORE you take your foot off the brake. Do the reverse when releaseing the brake...so

Automatic: Stop (foot on brake), park, parking brake, release foot.
When starting press brake, release parking brake, switch to drive, releae brake.

Standard: Stop (foot on clutch/brake), parking brake, release foot, optionally put in 1st or reverse.
When starting, both feet in, release parking brake, put in gear, release brake then clutch etc...
On a standard, always put it into gear after letting the car settle on the parking brake. That way the friction is on the brake and not the transmission.
 
Great info guys, thanks!

My wife's Solara ebrake works like a charm, but I just now discovered my Sunfire's ebrake could use tightened... I have to tug up to the very last notch before it grabs. Is this a DIY or dealership fix?
 
jandree22 said:
Great info guys, thanks!

My wife's Solara ebrake works like a charm, but I just now discovered my Sunfire's ebrake could use tightened... I have to tug up to the very last notch before it grabs. Is this a DIY or dealership fix?

There was an old trick a mechanic friend advised me a while back: on a clear street or parking lot, try putting the car in reverse, pick up some speed (while reversing) then depress the brake pedal. (I seriously do not recommend this procedure as it obviously can be quite dangerous) The reverse action on older cars should some what tighten up that parking brake cable.

HOWEVER, from your description, it sounds like a job where someone will have to climb under the car (or jack up the car) and adjust the parking brake cable. Some cars also allow you to adjust the parking brake cable right at the base of the handle.
 
martman said:
There was an old trick a mechanic friend advised me a while back: on a clear street or parking lot, try putting the car in reverse, pick up some speed (while reversing) then depress the brake pedal. (I seriously do not recommend this procedure as it obviously can be quite dangerous) The reverse action on older cars should some what tighten up that parking brake cable.
I read something like that too... quite the peculiar solution, huh? Maybe I'll give it a shot. I'm trading it in in for the 5 in a few months anyways, so it's not a big deal regardless.
 
Well, I just tried it. I made 4 passes in Reverse in an 'empty' parking lot @ 15mph and hit the brakes... the fourth time was enough to chirp the tires and kick in ABS. Maybe it's a placebo effect, but it doesn't seem to have to go as high as it did before. Before you needed it in the absolute last possible click, now it seems to hold in the 3rd to last click.

I'll repeat this process once or twice more in the next few days to see if I can get continued improvement.

Honestly, I'm surprised I even saw any difference at all!
 
Ok just want to add this proceedure after you emergency brake is applied and car is in park.

TURN UP THE MUSIC AND BOUNCE TO THE MUSIC.....(ughdance)
 
Interesting...

I'm starting to notice that people are not usually parking with the parking brake. I learned it as the 'hand-brake' but everyone in driving school either had no idea what I was talking about, or they said it was called the parking brake.

Nevertheless, I have always used the parking brake as a habit as my father has always taught me. Thanks Dad! :)
 
Another reason to use the parking brake on your Mazda is due to the design of the rear calipers. The piston ratchets (turns) as it retracts and we're seeing ALOT of rear caliper failures on Proteges, and now we're starting to see some 3's with higher mileage needing rear calipers because the owner never used the parking brake and the calipers seized.
 
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