Originally Posted by DeadGeneration
Quick question for you man. WTH are you talking about? Coil packs maybe? "Distributor" (you must be thinking of something else because we don't have Distributors in our cars).
We checked the fuses and they are all ok. We tested all the electrical and found that the distrubtor broke. Theory is: Distributor was already going out the door, and we just tipped it over the edge by trying to start the car with seafoam. This is my friends 1993 Toyota Camry btw, he knows nothing about cars and I told him I would look at it. We changed the radiator fluid, fixed his tail pipe which needed to be heated, remolded, and sanded. Than we checked tire pressure, cleaned the engine bay, and finally went to seafoam. After seafoam planning on changing oil. In the mean time i've discovered a completely oblitterated and patched up air intake, which luckily doesn't have a MAF it has a separate O2 sensor which has remained out of the way of the fucked up intake or seafoam. I found a broken vacuum line which I patched together. Anyway, we need a new distributor now which we're going to get. Also we replaced the spark plugs and wires which were also fucked up. This car is getting a complete mechanical and electrical run down. Its amazing how cars can run on barely working things and this stuff would have eventually broken down on the side of the road and cost alot more money, but were fixing things and breaking and replacing things before they do it at a critical time of need. So anyway, looking for a used distributor tomorrow and picking up another ignition rotor. <3 real mechanics
2003 Midnight Blue Protege5 Gone
2004 Nordic Green RX-8 Gone
2012 Dark Gray Metallic WRX Current
Its a 1993 Toyota Camry, says so many a times. I'm working on my friends car. That's what you get for scanning when you read lol. The coils are fine btw.
lol I forgot about that little factor!Originally Posted by DeadGeneration
Yep. Fun times ahead. Gotta marked up the old distributor and around it to make sure I get things back in right.
Yea. Ordering the new distributor online because the other ones we can get ahold of are more expensive and used. Getting new one on ebay for about $100.
anyone confirmed this?Originally Posted by amsgator
Men have two emotions: hungry and horny. If you see him without an erection, make him a sandwich.
Save $20 off your order of $200 or more at Crutchfield.com by putting this code in the referral code section on the checkout page!!!
It must be your first order with Crutchfield to qualify for the discount
How Many Mechanics Use SEA FOAM In Tune-Up of 4 Cycle Gasoline Carbureted or Fuel Injected Engines
Autos, Trucks, and Tractors
FUEL TANK, CARBURETOR, INJECTION and OIL CRANKCASE.
- With engine warm, slowly pour 1/3 to 1/2 pint through carburetor or throttle body throat. (If vehicle is port injected slowly pour SEA FOAM through direct manifold vacuum line that will feed all cylinders, possible sources are P.C.V. valve or brake booster line.) This will pull SEA FOAM down on top of the pistons and to the back of the intake valves to dissolve carbon. Turn ignition off. Restart engine after 5 minutes. If severe carbon build up is apparent, use more Sea Foam as previously directed. Make sure exhaust is well ventilated when using Sea Foam in these various ways as fumes will be extreme for a short time.
- Pour 1/3 to 1/2 pint into oil crank case to clean rings, lifters, dirty parts and remove moisture.
- Pour 1/3 to 1 full pint into fuel tank to clean injectors, carburetor jets, fuel lines and remove moisture.
- Immediate Results: Smoother idle, increased R.P.M.'s better throttle response and improved performance. See label on can for detailed results for use in each area.
For Peak Performance, Use SEA FOAM Every 2,000 to 5,000 Miles
When Used Thru Injection or Carburetor
- A 100% pure petroleum product for use in all gasoline and diesel type engines, both 2 and 4 cycle. OXYGEN SENSOR SAFE.
- Cleans dirty engine parts internally by removing harmful gums, varnish and carbon. WORKS AND PERFORMS INSTANTLY.
- Removes moisture from oil crankcases and fuel tanks.
- Stabilizes and conditions fuels. Use for engine storage.
- Cure hesitations, stalls, pings and rough idle due to carbon buildup.
- Helps pass emissions test. EPA Registered.
When Added to Crankcase (Oil)
- Cleans carbon build up
- Cleans intake valves and pistons
- Gives smoother idle
- Cleans catalytic converter odors
- Cures hesitations and pings
- Restores power and pickup
- With warm engine running, SLOWLY poor 1/2 pint through carburator, throttle body or direct manifold vacuum line that will feed ALL CYLINDERS. Possible sources are P.C.V. valve or brake booster line. Turn ignition off. Restart engine after 5 minutes. Be sure exhaust is well ventilated. Fumes will be extreme for a short period of time.
- For use in injector cleaning machines, use 50% SEA FOAM and 50% fuel.
- Fill diesel filters with SEA FOAM to clean injectors fast.
One pint treats 10 quarts of oil (avg. 1 1/2 ounce per quart).
- Frees sticky lifters and rings
- Increases R.P.M.'s vacuum and compression
- Cleans dirty parts
- Removes moisture
- Cleans PCV valve systems
When Added to Fuel Tank
One pint treats 8-25 gallons of fuel (average 1 ounce per gallon).
- Cleans fuel injectors and carburetor jets
- Cleans carbon as you drive
- Lubricates upper cylinders
- De-ices and removes moisture
- Diesel full conditioner and anti gel
- Stabilizes fuel
In Injector Cleaning Machines
Add a 50/50 blend of fuel and SEA FOAM into injector cleaning machine. Run directly through the fuel rails to clean injectors fast. Add SEA FOAM to your fuel tank to clean injectors as you drive.
the guy at kregan told me to do two oil changes the same day i sea foamOriginally Posted by amsgator
Thinking about buying a front lip or spoiler lip from NextMod - READ THIS FIRST!!
SeaFoam ftw...I did mine sunday before I installed my exhaust.
It feels like a brand new car.
Currently In: MCAS Futenma Okinawa
Loadmasters: Doing it in the back....With chains and straps
look guys i have been working on cars my hole life. i have always put it in the gas tank with a full tank. then get some amsoil power foamer. you will have to hold the gas at about 4000 rpm. take the intake of and spray it in use half the can. save the rest. then change your oil and clean your spark plugs. this works great it will fell like a new car.
hey nice ride man. what do you have dune to her?
there is alot of reading, but a dam good write up guys. I just have a ? though.
Ok so its ok to run this stuff in a MSP cause i saw someone say it could mess up some valve in the booster line, and i could have been said but i didnt hear anyone say for sure that it was fine, im sure it i just want to be sure.
I have heard that too and from what I have been told you can only add it through the pcv line when you have an MSP because the brake booster line has a check valve in it. at least if i remember correctly that is why, i do remember being specifically told to use the PCV line. I just put 14oz in the gas tank (1 oz per gallon) when i have about 100 miles before my oil change i am going to add to pcv line then add to my oil.
Turbohoses Hardpipes, Boostsciences RDV, ATP WGA, Weapon-R Secret Weapon SRI, Medieval ADP, Tenzo-R Vac/Boost Gauge; vanquished turkey