thebeansoldier
Member
- :
- '02 Honda S2000
I've just finished installing my Mazdaspeed Camber Links (a bit disappointed the box didn't come with a decal). Started Friday night 4/21 and finished Saturday morning. I didn't want to push it before my alignment so after I did get it and, pushed it, for the first time Ive heard a tire(s) squeal during an oversteer. Never heard that before, but I thought it was rather interesting, especially since Im running with 225/40R18s.
UPDATE: I'm currently using 205/45R17 Potenzas and they rock compared to the ASX!
The rear now feels more eager to oversteer. The response is very good. If you wish to do the install yourself, like I did- take your time as much as possible. Took me at least 6 hours (taking a whole lot of pics, writing notes and timing how long it took to remove or take what), but I had lots of fun. You will too
If you do get the MS Camber links, don't bother reading the instructions. It's only for a Mazda tech. You can also use this to install your SPC, or Eibach camber kits. The new links will look different but all come from the same company
* I'd like to thank sok07 for providing me torque specs on the camber bolts and for his overview pics.
NEEDED:
17mm deep and short socket
10mm ratcheting wrench [extremely important!]
Rachet wrench
Torque wrench
Jack(s)
Jack stands
Wheel chocks
OPTIONAL, BUT VERY HELPFUL:
Floor jack
17mm ratcheting wrench
Allen wrenches (5.5mm-7mm, optional but very helpful!)
2 long plastic zip ties
1 wire tie
Torx set [to remove the bracket off the auto leveling sensor]
3in extension
[size=15pt]RIGHT SIDE[/size]
I suggest doing the right side first. After you done, the left side should be cake
First we check out the right sides camber:
Raise the car and take out the wheel and find your first 17mm bolt:
Then your second bolt:
Then the auto-leveling sensor (Theres a 10mm bolt thats hidden that holds that sensor to the cross member):
Go under the car with your 10mm ratcheting wrench and spend about 30-40min taking out that stupid bolt.
Took me 1hr, taking pics and trying to find a faster way to get it out.
The ONLY way to get that out without lowering the cross member is to use the ratcheting wrench,
then your fingers (from both hands, I have small fingers and I cant get in there with just one) to finish getting it out.
Its a relatively long bolt (i think it's the same bolt as the one you took when removing the intake resonator).
Re-install it or find another way to hold that sensor there?
Push that damn sensor out of the way as far away from that camber bolt as possible. You will need all the room you can get.
It took me +20min to push it far enough to fit the 17mm socket and my wrench.
You get more room if you use the Torx driver to remove that bracket off the sensor.
Use a jack to raise the arm a little bit with a jack to reduce some tension [as I did here on the left side].
This will also help you align the new ones, but it was a little easier for me to align the holes while the arm wasn't raised.
Then start taking out the 2 bolts.
Compare the links make sure to orient the new one the same was as the old one
because its not stamped with IN. Basically the wider side is IN. Put in the new link.
Zip tie the two lines as they will get in the way of trying to align the holes.
Put in the camber bolt to the part thats IN, start threading it but dont even come close to
tightening it because youll need that slack to help align the holes while you work with OUT.
Aligning the holes is the fun part as it will take several tries to align the OUT bolt hole (took me almost an hour I think),
but make sure youre wearing some type of breathing protection. I think I managed to breath in some brake dust,
and I know you wouldnt want to do that. Use one of the allen wrenches to help you align the holes.
The bolt itself can do it, but it doesnt have that hook you need to easily lift and push down on the camber link.
After aligning the holes, put in the OUT bolt and start tightening both of them at 75-80 ft-lbs.
I decided to use the 2 plastic zip-ties to tie down the sensor [running through the existing bolt hole of course]
to the cross member after giving up trying +20mins to put back the 10mm bolt.
Make sure everythings tightened to spec, put back the wheel and tighten it to 85-90lbs/ft,
and lower the right side (or still keep them both up). But heres what it looks like after youre done.
Done with the right side!!!
I accidentally dropped my lamp and broke the bulb (so I decided to finish the install the next morning).
=======================================================================
[size=15pt]LEFT SIDE[/size]
Now we start to work with the left side (much easier cause there's no sensor to get out of the way):
Comparing the 2 links again... Remove the old bolts and install the new link the same way you did the right side.
If you forgot, take out the tie you used for the right side, and tie the two lines here too.
My left side was actually trickier to than the right's install. This is why- look at how the link is situated.
It was very hard to align the holes and even harder to thread in the bolt on the OUT side.
While closely examining the bolt hole, I found out that the link was made by SPC, who also makes their own
and Eibach's camber link kit. Mine says "SPC" then "Lot 003" at the other end. You shouldn't have a problem with yours.
After about 3 hours of work JUST on the left side (i'm glad i waited till morning to do that side's install),
of mostly trying to align that hole on the and ruining my 5.5mm allen wrench, I finally finished.
I'm still in the process of removing that "Progress" decal's residue.
Check your work:
After my alignment (no difference really). It turns out the cambers were already spec'd at -1.1 at
the left and -1.0 at the right after my install. Now rear camber is -1.1L -0.8R. I could've saved $75!
Glad I did it though. It no longer pulls to the right... now it pulls to the left
(ughdance)
Hope that helps
UPDATE: I'm currently using 205/45R17 Potenzas and they rock compared to the ASX!
The rear now feels more eager to oversteer. The response is very good. If you wish to do the install yourself, like I did- take your time as much as possible. Took me at least 6 hours (taking a whole lot of pics, writing notes and timing how long it took to remove or take what), but I had lots of fun. You will too
If you do get the MS Camber links, don't bother reading the instructions. It's only for a Mazda tech. You can also use this to install your SPC, or Eibach camber kits. The new links will look different but all come from the same company * I'd like to thank sok07 for providing me torque specs on the camber bolts and for his overview pics.
NEEDED:
17mm deep and short socket
10mm ratcheting wrench [extremely important!]
Rachet wrench
Torque wrench
Jack(s)
Jack stands
Wheel chocks
OPTIONAL, BUT VERY HELPFUL:
Floor jack
17mm ratcheting wrench
Allen wrenches (5.5mm-7mm, optional but very helpful!)
2 long plastic zip ties
1 wire tie
Torx set [to remove the bracket off the auto leveling sensor]
3in extension
[size=15pt]RIGHT SIDE[/size]
I suggest doing the right side first. After you done, the left side should be cake
First we check out the right sides camber:
Raise the car and take out the wheel and find your first 17mm bolt:
Then your second bolt:
Then the auto-leveling sensor (Theres a 10mm bolt thats hidden that holds that sensor to the cross member):
Go under the car with your 10mm ratcheting wrench and spend about 30-40min taking out that stupid bolt.
Took me 1hr, taking pics and trying to find a faster way to get it out.
The ONLY way to get that out without lowering the cross member is to use the ratcheting wrench,
then your fingers (from both hands, I have small fingers and I cant get in there with just one) to finish getting it out.
Its a relatively long bolt (i think it's the same bolt as the one you took when removing the intake resonator).
Re-install it or find another way to hold that sensor there?
Push that damn sensor out of the way as far away from that camber bolt as possible. You will need all the room you can get.
It took me +20min to push it far enough to fit the 17mm socket and my wrench.
You get more room if you use the Torx driver to remove that bracket off the sensor.
Use a jack to raise the arm a little bit with a jack to reduce some tension [as I did here on the left side].
This will also help you align the new ones, but it was a little easier for me to align the holes while the arm wasn't raised.
Then start taking out the 2 bolts.
Compare the links make sure to orient the new one the same was as the old one
because its not stamped with IN. Basically the wider side is IN. Put in the new link.
Zip tie the two lines as they will get in the way of trying to align the holes.
Put in the camber bolt to the part thats IN, start threading it but dont even come close to
tightening it because youll need that slack to help align the holes while you work with OUT.
Aligning the holes is the fun part as it will take several tries to align the OUT bolt hole (took me almost an hour I think),
but make sure youre wearing some type of breathing protection. I think I managed to breath in some brake dust,
and I know you wouldnt want to do that. Use one of the allen wrenches to help you align the holes.
The bolt itself can do it, but it doesnt have that hook you need to easily lift and push down on the camber link.
After aligning the holes, put in the OUT bolt and start tightening both of them at 75-80 ft-lbs.
I decided to use the 2 plastic zip-ties to tie down the sensor [running through the existing bolt hole of course]
to the cross member after giving up trying +20mins to put back the 10mm bolt.
Make sure everythings tightened to spec, put back the wheel and tighten it to 85-90lbs/ft,
and lower the right side (or still keep them both up). But heres what it looks like after youre done.
Done with the right side!!!
I accidentally dropped my lamp and broke the bulb (so I decided to finish the install the next morning).
=======================================================================
[size=15pt]LEFT SIDE[/size]
Now we start to work with the left side (much easier cause there's no sensor to get out of the way):
Comparing the 2 links again... Remove the old bolts and install the new link the same way you did the right side.
If you forgot, take out the tie you used for the right side, and tie the two lines here too.
My left side was actually trickier to than the right's install. This is why- look at how the link is situated.
It was very hard to align the holes and even harder to thread in the bolt on the OUT side.
While closely examining the bolt hole, I found out that the link was made by SPC, who also makes their own
and Eibach's camber link kit. Mine says "SPC" then "Lot 003" at the other end. You shouldn't have a problem with yours.
After about 3 hours of work JUST on the left side (i'm glad i waited till morning to do that side's install),
of mostly trying to align that hole on the and ruining my 5.5mm allen wrench, I finally finished.
I'm still in the process of removing that "Progress" decal's residue.
Check your work:
After my alignment (no difference really). It turns out the cambers were already spec'd at -1.1 at
the left and -1.0 at the right after my install. Now rear camber is -1.1L -0.8R. I could've saved $75!
Glad I did it though. It no longer pulls to the right... now it pulls to the left
(ughdance)
Hope that helps
