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Thread: My how-to: Water Temp gauge.

  1. #1
    A dirty pikey FL_PR5's Avatar
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    My how-to: Water Temp gauge.

    Alright after quite of bit of talking on another thread here i've come across on my how to on putting in a Water Temp Gauge on a protege5. i've found out there are quite a few ways to do it but this is how i did it.

    Special Thanks to the following for making it possible:
    TurfBurn
    Brian MP5T
    Bigg Tim
    Linux Racer

    What you will need:
    Water Temp Gauge and sensor.
    14-18awg wire.
    Wire strippers.
    Scissors or exacto knife.
    Electrical tape.
    Heatshrink.
    Wrench for clamps on hose with 8 socket.
    Butt clamps, i think they're called that (clips into wire without distrupting it)
    2 tightening clamps, used by wrench or flathead.
    1 3/8"NPT 4" brass pipe.
    1 3/8" NPT T fitting.
    Metal saw to cut brass pipe.
    teflon tape.

    Alright this is my first how-to so bare with me. i'll try to keep this short and to the point.

    after you get the brass pipe cut it in half and use teflon tape on the threads to put it in the T. i also put teflon on the sensor threads both big and small ones.

    So roughly like this:
    1/2 pipe ----- T Fitting ---- 1/2 pipe
    |
    3/8" to 1/8"NPT Adapter
    |
    sensor




    Cut into the hose with the yellow arrows on it. Ignore the red arrows on that hose. this was a pic from the thread listed above.


    I suggest using a buddy for this part. take off the intake, i have a CAI so i popped that off and it was way easier so i suggest it, otherwise it's nearly impossible. now move as many wires as you can out of the way. i put newspaper under the car to catch most of the excess radiator fluid. take the scissors or exacto knife and cut the hose. try to elevate it as much as possible to minimize fluid flow or block the hose holes with your buddies thumbs or something else. i used my thumbs and a screw with a bunch of washers/one big fat washer with a nut holding it on and plugged the hole. now slide on one of the clamp rings on each side of the hose. put the T in the hose and tighten down the clamps with a flathead or the socket wrench. try to cover as much brass as possible so you have a less chance of leaking by more space for clamping. check and make sure everything is tightened down and secure and no leaking. the end result should look like this:


    i grounded the gauge by the battery in this picture. this is before i made it all nice and neat. but touch up the hole as much as possible so no moisture or water gets in there. i clamped on a U to fit around that big screw on the stock groundwire on the brass fitting, but use whatever you can, i just dont suggest wrapping the wire around the screw.


    now run your wire through the firewall to under your steering wheel (i also did my A/F gauge install so thats why i more than one wire running through the wall in the yellow shielding). then run the wire up to your left side of the drivers side wall up to your pillar.


    for it to come one when the car does i tapped into the cigarrete lighter (pink/black wire). and run that wire along the wall with your sender and grounding wire. also use that ignition wire to run your light and for the negative wire for the light use the other black wire from the cigarette lighter.

    when you're finished your setup should look like this:


    when you turn your key to on the everything should light up. and make sure to disconnect your negative terminal. i just did this to my car so i will let you know if i throw i CEL which i doubt, knock on wood. use the heatshrink around the wire connections under the hood. electrical tape will do fine in the car's driver bay.

    thank you and enjoy.
    -bob.

  2. #2
    A dirty pikey FL_PR5's Avatar
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    no thanks? oh well.
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  3. #3
    shad0wofdeath Jeph's Avatar
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    Thanks!
    I'm about to do this, and the other thread was such a mess of stuff i had a hard time following what was supposed to happen. So this is very helpful
    Only GT28RS powered protege in Utah



  4. #4
    A dirty pikey FL_PR5's Avatar
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    no problem. if atleast one person gets help from it then i've done my job. yea that other thread was total chaos. your welcome and you're good to go!
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  5. #5
    shad0wofdeath Jeph's Avatar
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    Heh, you got coolant all over heheheheh
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  6. #6
    Thread Killer eting_pro5's Avatar
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    So I'm gonna play the idiot card here...

    Why do you need the water temp gauge? Isn't that what the temp gauge on the dash is for? Is this only for more accuracy?

    Thanks for not hating!

  7. #7
    shad0wofdeath Jeph's Avatar
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    Well if you're an idiot like me, you need it cause you broke your one in your dash messing around with gauge overlays and gauge rings...
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  8. #8
    MP3 #1497 RyanJayG's Avatar
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    the one in the dash is worthless... by the time it shows "hot" its been too hot for a while already...

    its just an idiot light

  9. #9
    Broke College Guy Saban's Avatar
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    Why brass fitting instead of stainless steel?
    #262


  10. #10
    A dirty pikey FL_PR5's Avatar
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    from what i understand it's harder to corrode and rust. that's why mainly everything under the hood is brass from what i can tell.
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  11. #11
    A dirty pikey FL_PR5's Avatar
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    and RyanJayG is correct.
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  12. #12
    Registered User blthlt's Avatar
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    can you post a pic of how you grounded the setup? I plan to do this in the near future.
    GT28RS:Perrin FMIC:MPI Piggyback:MPI Dual Extra Injection Setup: Dual 42lb injectors:GHL 3" Turbo Back:Kartboy:AEM:Autometer:Wiseco:K1:FORGED:Fidanz a 7lb. Flywheel:Exedy Stage 1: Justin B P & P
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  13. #13
    A dirty pikey FL_PR5's Avatar
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    yea, i'm heading off to bed. i'll take a pic in the morning and post it in here when i first get up.
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  14. #14
    A dirty pikey FL_PR5's Avatar
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    ok here's the pic of the grounding.
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  15. #15
    A dirty pikey FL_PR5's Avatar
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    hell yea i got it over quite a bit of places. plus my engine is dirty since i've been driving around the beach so that explains the sand.
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