New audio system recomendations?

[Danger1942]

I just bought a 2005 Mazda3 sedan the other day and I want to replace the stock speakers first and then get a new cd deck , subs and amp. Anyone have any advise for me and recomendations on what speakers and sizes to get? Would I be better off getting component speakers? and are bigger speakers generally better? I know the 3 can fit 5, 5x7 and also 6x8, atleast that's what I've read. I will be buying from crutchfield.com

I also like the stock head unit. This maybe a supid question but I don't know much about audio systems, anyway....If I keep the stock Head unit would I be able to run an amp and subs using it or would I have to get a new headunit?

Thanks in advance.

[Iggy]

search

[chuyler1]

Take a look at the stickies in the car audio and electronics section.

[Danger1942]

I did search. Only thing I found was that one guy thinks that Components may be better. That was it. Besides there aren't that many audio posts on here. I knew I was going to get atleast one person who would say "search" and flame me b/c I'm not an audio expert. What's so hard about typing what you would buy for your Mazda 3 or what you wish you bought for your 3?

[Danger1942]

I just figured out why I couldn't find a lot of posts. I was strickly in the Mazda 3 section and not the general Mazda section. I'm still interested in what people would like in their mazda 3 but I'll probably find the answeres to some of my question now that I found out where to look.

[DJ_Seija_Tenshi]

if im correct, the stock head unit in the M3 dont have sub woofer outlets, nor any other useful outlets.

i would advise taking it all out and purchasing a tight looking head unit.

Me, personally, would only do this:

-Head unit [touch screen]
-change 4 main speakers [6 1/2"]
- buy 2 subwoofers
- buy ONLY 1 amp for the subs.

basically, leave the speaker in the doors new, but not amplified. those mofo's suck when turned up. just leave them as ambient speakers... the louder they get, the more tasteless vibration you'll get.

thats just my thoughts.

course remember, to custom fit the subs and so on, in the trunk or where ever u deem necessary.

good luck.

in addition, look at these brands:
headunit: Apline, Pioneer, Panasonic, Sony, [and if u must, Kenwood]
subs: Infinity, Rockford Fosgate, Pioneer subwoofer brand "Premier," or if u must Sony.
speakers: Infinity, pioneer.
amps: audiobahn, but u should look around.

[saskmazdaman11]

If you want a new headunit but want to keep the steering wheel controls, get a PAC interface (SWIX). I got one in June, and I love it, easy install, well worth extra expense.

[splitvizion]

you can run the stock hu and amp subs but you need to buy an adapter. Also, it will sound like shit because you are jumping the signal from the adapter to the RCA's that you are running back to the amp. I would not rec.. Alpine sells a really good set of 5x7 components. If you are short on money, just get a set of components for the front and reg. 5x7 for the rear doors. As for the HU, I chose to go the custom route because when I purchased my 3 there was nothing made to put an aftermarket HU in.
here is the link to my HU install:
/members/splitvizion/hu install2.JPG

Next I am installing a tv screen below the aftermarket HU where the stock HU is. It will also be fiberglassed. This may be a little extreme for you but it will give you reference when deciding what you want in the future.

[Danger1942]

I ordered 2 pairs of Infinity Kappa 5x7 2 way speakers from crutchfield. My next purchase will be dynomat for all the doors and also speaker baffles for all door speakers. I would have bought the baffles with the speakers but they were out of stock. I'll probably get the pac interface like saskmazdaman11 mentioned. I'll have to check that out. Are there any downsides to it?

I'm not interested in the tv's or anythng like that although they are nice. I want good overall sound b/c the factory door speakers suck and have little to no bass. I'll be getting subwoofers but I wanted to replace the door speakers first.

How much do they charge for custom work?...such as fiberglass subwoofer boxes....I know there's probably a wide range but how much is it in your area.

Thanks for the posts

[SP33D]

Danger how much are you looking to spend?

I'd personally suggest getting either an eclipse head unit or an alpine.. anything else doesn't really stand up to their standards.

Who knows, maybe you'll be content with the way the stock speakers sound once you get the new head unit.

Also if you're going to get subs, I'd suggest buying the amp first.. and spend more money on the amp, then buy your sub based on the specs of the amp with the remaining money. This way you don't have an expensive sub that would get underpowered.. making it sound like crap or break. Also there really isn't a point to getting 2 subs.. say for example you're going to spend $350 on 2 subs, get 1 IDmax 12" sub instead.. it will definately be worth it. Anything you do is really based on your budget.. so give me an idea of how much you'd like to spend, and i'll try to point you in the right direction.

PS: the stock head unit probably only puts out like 12 watts rms.. so I hope that's enough for those speakers.

[saskmazdaman11]

There are no real downsides to the interface, just two minor inconvieneces (i lost my dictionary)

1) The interface can only control one function, even if the same remote button controls multiple functions. ie: My Alpine remote has a buton that either changes CD tracks or preset radio stations, so I can only control one of those, I chose the radio stations
2) If the sun shines DIRECTLY on the eye, it stops functioning like any other remote control, this hardly ever happens, depending on where you mount the eye, I just ran mine through the vents to the top middle vents, cause I didn't want to drill anything

You can also get dash kits to mount the new headunit, I have an alpine with 60 watts X 4, and the sound is better, even with stock, the two 10" Orion subs help too.
www.autotoys.com will help you out.

PS Remember all the wiring kits that you'll need to make it all work.

[dtlmunkey]

I also went the crutchfield route, and came out great. I am an alpine fan, so that's what I picked. I got the 9825 (signal to noise 105db, super clear)head unit on sale $150, and it comes with a dash kit and wiring harness. This head unit also has 3 sets of 4 volt preamp outputs, which keeps the signal clear when adding amps. For the doors I went with 5X7 alpines (will upgrade to components up front when I have the cash). For an amp I chose the Alpine MRP-M350 - 200w/RMS mono hooked up to an old JL 10". This setup is super clean and will go as loud as I want it to. I spent a total of around $500. Another bonus with the head unit is that Alpine offers an adapter to connect to SIRIUS satellite radio and use the head unit controls for it. As said earlier in the thread, it depends on your budget.

[FreeStyLinDrive]

[50nzoomn]

If you want a new headunit but want to keep the steering wheel controls, get a PAC interface (SWIX). I got one in June, and I love it, easy install, well worth extra expense.

Can you give details on how you installed this, power hook up etc. I'm assuming that this unit connects to to steering wheel controls? Does this mod disable the dimmer for the dash? I will concider installing the eye to the rear of the cup holders on the center panel, this could be done easy and the eye would have a straight shot the the hu, and it would not be seen.