MS3 Wheel Fitment Pics & Specs

FYI-

I had to run atleast a 5mm up front to clear the strut so putting a wider tire may require more spacer.
 
Now, a dumb question... I understand offset to be the distance of the hub from the centerline of the wheel in any direction. Positive offset, as I get means that the hub itself is pushed closer to the out facing edge of the wheel, and negative offset being where the hub itself is actually offset from the centerline of the wheel towards the inside of the fenderwell. Running a lower positive offset will push the wheel itself further out, forcing it closer to the fender lip.... I think. Spacers are starting to make me confused, and I want to make sure I have it right before I start trying to do things to my car that are going to render it inoperable, and piss off the wife. Let's say, I'm running a 40mm positive offset. That means, from centerline my hub is 40mm closer to the outside face of the rim than a wheel with a 0 offset. Now by adding a 10mm spacer, would that effectively make the wheel a +30mm offset? Seems to me by adding 10mm to the hub face of the wheel (which I understand is effectively what a 10mm spacer would do) that's exactly what would be happening. By this logic, would I be better off running a lower positive offset, say a 35mm? Or is there something I'm missing here?
 
nope, thats pretty much right. Thats why doing research before you buy wheels with a proper offset is always a good idea. Better to think twice and buy once, than think once and buy twice. :D


also, this thread needs more pics and specs :(
 
Now, a dumb question... I understand offset to be the distance of the hub from the centerline of the wheel in any direction. Positive offset, as I get means that the hub itself is pushed closer to the out facing edge of the wheel, and negative offset being where the hub itself is actually offset from the centerline of the wheel towards the inside of the fenderwell. Running a lower positive offset will push the wheel itself further out, forcing it closer to the fender lip.... I think. Spacers are starting to make me confused, and I want to make sure I have it right before I start trying to do things to my car that are going to render it inoperable, and piss off the wife. Let's say, I'm running a 40mm positive offset. That means, from centerline my hub is 40mm closer to the outside face of the rim than a wheel with a 0 offset. Now by adding a 10mm spacer, would that effectively make the wheel a +30mm offset? Seems to me by adding 10mm to the hub face of the wheel (which I understand is effectively what a 10mm spacer would do) that's exactly what would be happening. By this logic, would I be better off running a lower positive offset, say a 35mm? Or is there something I'm missing here?

You're on the right track. JeffWRX needed to run a spacer to keep the tire from rubbing on the coilover. Most coilovers are going to be wider than the stock strut and also do not have the relief dent like OEM. What you really need to do is figure out what size tire you would like to run and then choose a wheel based on that. Also keep in mind that different tires of the same size rating will vary based on manufacturer, so while one brand 245 requires a spacer another may not.
 
Yeah, I'm already pretty set on wanting 245/40/17 Direzza Star specs.... phenomenal tire the one time I did get a chance to drive it. I'd love to go to a 255, but I fear that it might be too extreme, even on a 17.... but this definitely has me going in the right direction. Thank you gentlemen.
 
Yeah, I'm already pretty set on wanting 245/40/17 Direzza Star specs.... phenomenal tire the one time I did get a chance to drive it. I'd love to go to a 255, but I fear that it might be too extreme, even on a 17.... but this definitely has me going in the right direction. Thank you gentlemen.

Wheel diameter won't make a difference, that's why there are different aspect ratios. There are a lot more tire options in 17" than 18" though. 255 is doable but it will require some work. You will need all the adjustability that you can afford.

PS: Did you come from a DSM?
 
Wheel diameter won't make a difference, that's why there are different aspect ratios. There are a lot more tire options in 17" than 18" though. 255 is doable but it will require some work. You will need all the adjustability that you can afford.

PS: Did you come from a DSM?

Yeah, there are several reasons for the choice to go to a 17. I'm not worried *as* much about inner clearance as I am outer, and the 17 gives the the extra room on the outer edge I might not have in an 18. Plus, 17's are cheaper and lighter. I'll just have the juggle the numbers some more and see what I can get to work... I'll be spending some quality time in the garage with a plum bob and a ruler this weekend, for sure.

And yes, I did come from a DSM... had a 95 TSi AWD... threw a rod, and grenaded the clutch, all at the same time.... was sick of repairing it, and promptly went to a car with a warranty, which I then voided. Makes total sense.
 
ture, but they dont' really show anything if you want to go with an aggressive or even semi agressive setup... they wouldn't consider selling me something in less than a 48 offset when i was looking for something

There's a good reason for that... Going away from the stock offset by too much will make a high power FWD car into a torque steering monster due to the scrub radius change. To me... anything farther than 5mm different in offset from factory makes the car torque steer during sweepers and traction limited situations to the point it's dangerous. Wider tires also make this more pronounced. The wheels I'm running right now (17x7 +45) make the car scary to accelerate hard out of a turn, the car starts steering itself to the inside of the turn more and more the more throttle you add. Also, if one tire starts to spin in 3rd on wet roads... the car freaks out and lurches off to one side, then weight transfer makes the other side spin, and the car ends up lurching side to side. Very scary. Every high power FWD I've ever driven with non-stock offset was the same way. I had the same problem on my FWD dsm using +40 (stock was +46). It also affects the car similarly during braking. I'm planning on going to a 17x8 +50 offset wheel on my car to minimize the problem. I don't really care if they are perfectly flush as long as the car handles properly (like it did with the stock wheels).

I understand flush wheels look great (...to a point. I'm not one for the dune buggy look), but I don't see a point to it if you're ruining the handling of the car by messing with the offset to accomplish it instead of just the wheel width like you should.

Just thought that all the people checking this thread to pick out wheel sizes and offsets should have this info.
 
There's a good reason for that... Going away from the stock offset by too much will make a high power FWD car into a torque steering monster due to the scrub radius change. To me... anything farther than 5mm different in offset from factory makes the car torque steer during sweepers and traction limited situations to the point it's dangerous. Wider tires also make this more pronounced. The wheels I'm running right now (17x7 +45) make the car scary to accelerate hard out of a turn, the car starts steering itself to the inside of the turn more and more the more throttle you add. Also, if one tire starts to spin in 3rd on wet roads... the car freaks out and lurches off to one side, then weight transfer makes the other side spin, and the car ends up lurching side to side. Very scary. Every high power FWD I've ever driven with non-stock offset was the same way. I had the same problem on my FWD dsm using +40 (stock was +46). It also affects the car similarly during braking. I'm planning on going to a 17x8 +50 offset wheel on my car to minimize the problem. I don't really care if they are perfectly flush as long as the car handles properly (like it did with the stock wheels).

I understand flush wheels look great (...to a point. I'm not one for the dune buggy look), but I don't see a point to it if you're ruining the handling of the car by messing with the offset to accomplish it instead of just the wheel width like you should.

Just thought that all the people checking this thread to pick out wheel sizes and offsets should have this info.

dude i have the same problem with my wheels too, i got 17x7.5 not sure what is the offset but everything u jst said happens to me on the regular basses, its even worse when it rains or snows (drive2). should i get different wheels???????
 
It would help. If you know someone with stock wheels you could borrow, you could see if the problem goes away by putting the correct offset wheels back on. If it does, it's your wheel offset.

btw... the wheel offset is usually cast into the back of one of the wheel spokes or the back of the wheel hub area on all wheels, stock and aftermarket.
 
Can I fit Rota G-force, 18x8.5 with Dunlop Direzzas 225/40/18 without rubbing on stock suspension?

What suspension springs or coil-overs will keep me close to stock height if I upgrade next year?
 
Can I fit Rota G-force, 18x8.5 with Dunlop Direzzas 225/40/18 without rubbing on stock suspension?

What suspension springs or coil-overs will keep me close to stock height if I upgrade next year?

its defiantly gonna rub on stock suspension, if u wonna go with springs i would recommend teins but if u have the money for coil-overs go with BC Coil-overs i know couple of guys who have them and they love em(burnout)
 
Thanks,
I was hoping they wouldn't rub. Is it because it is 8.5 wide? I am in Hawaii and the roads are horrible. Rubbing is not acceptable for me. Do they make the G-force in 7.5 or 8. I might have to look at a different wheel.
 
its defiantly gonna rub on stock suspension


Not true. I rocked my 18x8.5 +48 Rota SVN's with 225/45 tires. I didnt rub one bit on stock suspension. Now if your offset is +42 or lower, you will rub. Offset is key to the fitment game.
 
Not true. I rocked my 18x8.5 +48 Rota SVN's with 225/45 tires. I didnt rub one bit on stock suspension. Now if your offset is +42 or lower, you will rub. Offset is key to the fitment game.

dude i have 17x7.5 with 225/50 tire and it rub so bad i had to roll my fenders
 
Thanks,
I was hoping they wouldn't rub. Is it because it is 8.5 wide? I am in Hawaii and the roads are horrible. Rubbing is not acceptable for me. Do they make the G-force in 7.5 or 8. I might have to look at a different wheel.

you can roll the fenders and it might not rub
 
1.
100_2824.jpg


100_2810.jpg


100_3182.jpg



2) Rota, SVN, Hyperblack
3) 18x8.5 +48 67.1mm hub bore
4) Falken Azenis
5) 225/45R18
6) Stock Suspension
7) factory alignment specs
8) Fenders not rolled @ the time.
9) No modding needed. No rubbing lock to lock. Closest clearance was the inside of the fronts to the strut. Approx 1/4"
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee297/mr_mazda329/Speed 3/100_2800.jpg
10)
11) Additional comments: looks fat and flush. If ya want more, Run 235/40s and 5mm spacers. Then you will have to roll and pull your rear fenders some.
 
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Nice ride Mr Mazda329. That is the look I am looking for, nearly flush with the fender and meaty but not rubbing! There has to be a balance somewhere. Your pics confirm my love for hyperblack too. Can anyone else confirm rubbing or not with 18x8.5 with 225/40's 48mm offset? I don't track my car or anything, just the occasional WOT on the on ramp or at the lights. Spend most of the time going 28mph in traffic.
 
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