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So I finally got a few minutes to look at what it's going to take to replace the master and release cylinders. Looks pretty straightforward. The only thing that looks like a bit of b**** is disconnecting the master from the clutch pedal... any tricks I should know? From the schematic drawing...

I haven't had a chance to deal with it yet, unfortunately my family-hauler (Pathfinder) has issues that need to be dealt with first. When I get the time I am going to replace the master and release cylinders and the clutch line and cross my fingers hope to hell it solves it.

I can't see the clutch fork, I'm not actually working on the car myself, I don't have the location, knowledge, or TIME to get that deep into car repairs. Thank you for your advice, I will talk with my mechanic about your points and see what he thinks. It has to be something related to heat...

So here's my issue: Car is a 2003.5 Protege5 ~152,000 km Car is in really good shape, but over the last few months it's developed a pretty major issue. After driving it for 30 - 45 minutes, I can't shift the damn thing into first or second gear from a stop. When the problem first started, I...

the title says it all - anybody know the bolt type/size for the "plug" bolt that hides the adjustment screw for the rear brake calipers? it's part number 26-700 (26700)

Ok, I expected that might be the case. Thank you again for your help.

Sorry to revive a dead thread, but what did you mean earlier by an "internal leak"?? As in, the hydraulic system is leaking internally in one of the cylinders? Could this be prone to happen during excessive thermal conditions vs normal driving conditions?

I've been looking at the factory service manual. Obviously if I want to remove the clutch master cylinder this will require me to drain the reservoir that is shared with the brake system. After I am finished with the clutch hydraulics, am I going to need to air bleed the brake system as well...

OK awesome thanks a lot for your reply Mr. Giggles.

Ok so I was in a big fuster-cluck traffic jam this afternoon and after about 20 minutes of stop and go it got really hard to shift into gear. Like I had to REALLY force it. To the point where if I was stopped at a light, I wouldn't take it out of 1st because I wasn't sure I'd be able to get it...

Is there anything special that needs to be done when installing new rotors? I've done pads before but not rotors. Is it just as simple as taking the old ones off and putting new ones on? New rotors don't need to be machined do they?

well it's working great! thanks everyone for the help.

s*** I was editing my last post and deleted it by accident. Anyway, I talked to my friend he said don't worry it's just purging air from the system on the other side of the thermostat. I need to take it for a drive but I ran out of time - parenting chores and etc.... He said if the cylinder...

I put it in boiling water for 10 minutes and it didn't open. FSM says it's supposed to be fully open at 95 C. I don't think it's EVER been replaced. I have all the maintenance records from the first owner and he never replaced it.

I see how to test the thermostat, it's in the FSM. Didn't see it the first time for some reason. For 10 bucks it's an cheap fix - if it's the problem. .... I'm due for an oil change anyway.... ;)

I'm going to pull the thermostat, looks pretty easy to do. Is there any way I can test it for functionality? To rule out whether or not it's faulty? My Bimmer friend says that it's probably a $15-$20 dollar part to replace. Is that accurate?

Coolant System Problem So I was driving home yesterday, about ten blocks from home and suddenly it felt like it was getting very warm in the cabin. I didn't think anything of it and just shut the heat off. (it had been in the middle position) By the time I was two blocks from home, all this...

Hi Guys, So the front driver's side sway bar link on my 03 P5 is toast. I can move the lower joint by hand and it makes a clunky sound. The passenger side is solid and unmovable by hand. I started noticing some vibration in the steering and a clunking sound when going over bumps about a week...

Well I just went for a short drive and I can still hear it. My car still has the factory original engine mounts. It only has 120,000 KM on it though, which isn't very much. I've been observing this for a while, and as far as I can tell, the rattle (sounds more like a metallic "flutter" or...

So I had my car up on stands for an oil change today, and while doing that I examined the bolts for all the heat shields. The ones that hold those corkscrew clips were really tight, I was able to tighten them only a tiny bit more. I noticed the bolts holding the rear heat shield on weren't...