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As long as you got an OEM MSM rad and not an OEM miata rad, you'll be a happy camper. Some poor folks got a regular miata rad and it ended badly as it's much smaller and can't keep up with the turbo fun.

Are they the V12 version 2? I had original V12s on two cars, really floppy sidewalls.

Mostly it's a re-flash of the computer or solenoid issues. Don't doddle, and visit your dealer so they can read the info off the computer if it has any data stored for them.

The issues didn't crop up until recent emission standards kicked in causing things to get overly complicated. I'm all for a cleaner environment but it's going to be hard for automakers to meet goals if the use-case for the vehicles don't match consumer expectation.

And the D doesn't really have issues, it's just that people want a Diesel to be short-trip friendly and they're just not made for commuting short distances.

How old is your radiator? Because it looks iffy and you're putting a lot of work into this...

This is called the first shift of the day on a cold transmission. Slow down.

You should be waiting 15 seconds from starting the car to doing any driving (just a good practice) The first shift will always be weird due to non-optimal trans fluid temps and pressures, especially with high idle with a cold engine. If it never messes up after driving a bit, you seem to be...

Oh no you didn't sound defensive/offensive at all! The warranty inspection friend works with an inspection company that is contracted by aftermarket or 3rd-party warranty companies while the Mazda guy sees data all mfr warranty and mfr extended warranty cars in the region and sees/talks to...

The big reason that I'm likely to state is: break-in wear. It will be the #1 cause of junk/crap/crud and it being at the birth of the car means it has the propensity and opportunity to do the most damage. Just like break-in on an engine, do the first changes early and then resume regular...

It's all about managing average fluid age. If you do periodic drain-and-fills your fluid's average 'age' stays lower than driving it 2-4x longer and doing a full flush.

We as in friends that work at warranty inspection companies and the regional mazda service manager I am also friends with. It's solenoids, they had a crap supplier at the beginning and did a rolling change and now it's stragglers, people with unrelated issues, and a few unlucky ones. If you're...

It's weird we don't see the issue as much on the 3 which came after the cx5 initially, so it must be a first-run-type issue.

Also remember to give it time to learn 'you' and the awkwardness will go away. Also it'll seem less awkward when you stop paying such close attention to it!

Unless they found and fixed the problem in the design, making all those transmissions that should be available may also have the problem... don't you want one with all the changes? Yes? Get in line. And if you're feeling impatient, think about how much storage space all those transmissions take...

2 weeks is not indefinitely over the life of a vehicle. Cool your jets.

stop completely, shift, let it engage, then release the brake to drive Don't be a reverse floater, it won't end well over time.

If it's an AWD CX9 they have transfer case problems (Ford part) and have extended the warranty on the part. Visit your dealer.

Summer = more AC usage The compressor is still engine driven so if the engine shut off you'd get lovely hot moist air

Listen to them. i-stop can't work on a cold engine or you'll wear it out really fast. The snowflake only shows you coolant temperature, oil takes about 10 miles to fully come up to temperature, and it is what protects your engine when it stops and starts. If it operated as you wanted it to...