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Anyone who bought from me this past weekend, your stuff has all shipped. PM me if you wish tracking info.

Some changes due to sale

and the HT....

Lots of stuff for sale. Will entertain bundling to save shipping costs or speed sales. Please don't lowball me, the prices are fair. Hypertech Power Programmer, unmarried, in box with everything, including CD $250 shipped, ConUS/CAN NRG Engine torque damper, locks motor in place $100 shipped...

16" steels cover the brakes just fine but, you'd probably have to be careful with cast wheels. I think 17" would likely improve handling in this cars case. The short stiff sidewalls of big inch rims contribute to torque steer, making power application more difficult. Plus, you'd see improvements...

Pretty much full bolt, short of a custom turbo manifold. Using stock KO4: AEM CAI PG TIP Corksport divorced wg DP Corksport RP 28X7.5X2.5 FMIC Stock BPV (went back on after Forge started leaking) This setup does push the turbo pretty hard at maintained high loads, with high EGTs I've...

you need 3

Yep, you won't clean anything that way using seafoam on a DI engine, in case anybody is still listening. You need to suck it into the engine. You can use the BPV hose but the blue clip vac hose is better, just tap it in and out of the liquid seafoam to get it in there without stalling the engine...

Cheez, I turned up the idle on my HT, just as a precautionary measure, against smoking turbo syndrome. turn off, completely as in, button off, and select face vents, fan off, your AC. it runs in various modes even when the light's off and it bumps up the idle to compensate.

....and a DP + RP dumped my fuel pressure to 700 psi so...I think it really is rolling the dice without a tune or at least a way to monitor vital stats.

Ya doin' a fair bit of powershifting? It ain't fixable, from the looks of it. You might want to consider a short shifter if Mazda won't fix it for you.

JY, CX-7 uses the same block, with a smaller turbo and different ECU calibration.

By the sails of the Beagle, that's a pack of snakes for sure. Cars today are insanely electrically complicated. I'm thinking of starting to look for common grounds in the systems affected, as a ground fault could lead to bizarre outcomes like this, I think.

You mean the thing us old timers used to call the "fuse panel", under the hood?

P/T KR means NOTHING. There's alot of variables that will make an engine run most efficiently and nowadays, modern ECMs recalculate on the fly. If you're seeing knock retard under high load/WOT, over 2-ish then be backing off, changing the tune and/or looking for causes.

The metal is coated. If you polish it you'll just take off the coating in places. a full removal of the coating and then sand and polish is the only real answer and, it's fiddly work. here's another suggestion or two: 1. take your keys out carefully as that's what scratched it in the first...

Yep, especially since I'm near full bolt. I don't want to have to find the time for that with winter comin' on. I just reflashed the comp back to the right MAF cal for my intake so, that's taken care of. :)

Not so much peak to peak but you'll freak at the improvement in the area under the curve and the improvement over 5K.

Did that this time and it started up again as soon as I reconnected it. Then just got bored and stopped itself a few minutes later. This stuff is ultra aggravating because it can't be easily provoked repeatedly. I theorise it may have something to do with the anti-theft system as the car will...

Seemingly out of nowhere and in response to no inputs, 3 times today my hazard lights have started flashing, the high beam indicator lights without high beams on and I can't turn the hazards off manually, they just stop by themselves after a while. Anybody else seen this? I am not prepared to...